ND filters?

[Bob Marley]

Hello,
I'm looking to buy an ND filter for blurring waterfalls and wide aperture video in bright light.
At first I thought of buying a variable filter but I need it for a 24mm lens and as far as I understand there's some nasty X-like distortion occurring on wide angles.
So I'm wondering should I go for a variable, how usable will it be, or should I go for a fixed one and how dark should it be, nd16, 32, 64?

 

[480sparky]

You only run into the X when you try to dial in too much density. Otherwise, you're fine.

Personally, I have a 1-8 stop SinghRay VND, plus a B+W 10-stop. That's more than enough.

 

[Ido]

It can be very easy to find what density you need, which makes the buying decision a whole lot easier.

Go somewhere you wish to shoot a long exposure at, and at the time of day you want to shoot. Set the camera to Aperture Priority mode, dial in the aperture you want for depth of field and sharpness, and set the ISO to the base setting. Use exposure compensation if needed, and write down—in your head, a note on your phone or a physical paper (old-school)—the shutter the camera picked. Now think about the shutter speed you want to use, how long you really want the exposure to be. Calculate the difference in stops between the two; if you find that challenging, switch over to Manual mode, dial in the "correct" shutter speed, and then turn the dial until you get to the shutter speed you want, while counting the clicks of the dial. Usually, each click amounts for 1/3 EV, so you should divide the number you got by 3 to get the number of stops you need to reduce.

 

[astroNikon]

There are also "thin" filters too which minimize vignetting on UWA lenses. Most brands have the normal high frame filter plus other much less height frame filters.

I have several ND filters to use dependent upon the lighting. Since lighting changes quite quickly in the morning/evening, even bright light when a stray cloud intefers, you either have to use aperture, shutter or ISO to compensate or a quick filter change.
I have ND4, ND8, ND16, ND64 & ND1024
plus Circular Polarizer

 

[480sparky]

It can be very easy to find what density you need, which makes the buying decision a whole lot easier.

Go somewhere you wish to shoot a long exposure at, and at the time of day you want to shoot. Set the camera to Aperture Priority mode, dial in the aperture you want for depth of field and sharpness, and set the ISO to the base setting. Use exposure compensation if needed, and write down—in your head, a note on your phone or a physical paper (old-school)—the shutter the camera picked. Now think about the shutter speed you want to use, how long you really want the exposure to be. Calculate the difference in stops between the two; if you find that challenging, switch over to Manual mode, dial in the "correct" shutter speed, and then turn the dial until you get to the shutter speed you want, while counting the clicks of the dial. Usually, each click amounts for 1/3 EV, so you should divide the number you got by 3 to get the number of stops you need to reduce.

That will only work for that one instance. You may find a 4 - stop is what's needed in that case, but the next scene may only need a 2-stop ND. Then the next might need 7.

 

[Ido]

It can be very easy to find what density you need, which makes the buying decision a whole lot easier.

Go somewhere you wish to shoot a long exposure at, and at the time of day you want to shoot. Set the camera to Aperture Priority mode, dial in the aperture you want for depth of field and sharpness, and set the ISO to the base setting. Use exposure compensation if needed, and write down—in your head, a note on your phone or a physical paper (old-school)—the shutter the camera picked. Now think about the shutter speed you want to use, how long you really want the exposure to be. Calculate the difference in stops between the two; if you find that challenging, switch over to Manual mode, dial in the "correct" shutter speed, and then turn the dial until you get to the shutter speed you want, while counting the clicks of the dial. Usually, each click amounts for 1/3 EV, so you should divide the number you got by 3 to get the number of stops you need to reduce.

That will only work for that one instance. You may find a 4 - stop is what's needed in that case, but the next scene may only need a 2-stop ND. Then the next might need 7.

Possible, but I guess it can at least give a good, general idea.

 

[480sparky]

Possible, but I guess it can at least give a good, general idea.

Apply the same logic to the question "What lens do I need?" Suddenly, you'll find yourself buying 275 lenses.

 

[<error>]

Apply the same logic to the question "What lens do I need?" Suddenly, you'll find yourself buying 275 lenses.

I don't think this is a fair comparison.

 

[480sparky]

Apply the same logic to the question "What lens do I need?" Suddenly, you'll find yourself buying 275 lenses.

I don't think this is a fair comparison.

What would be a fair comparison then?

How about cameras? How many cameras do you need to take the best image in all situations?

Tripods? How many tripods will you need to be covered in all situations?

Camera bags? Speedlights? Memory cards?

 

[<error>]

Are you trying to troll a little bit?

Ido gave a very precise and understandable description how to determine the ND factor for a given situation. What pisses you off by that?

Could you come up with something similar to explain whether Canon is better than Nikon? If you can, then you can effectively speak of "logic". In any case I appreciate good information that teaches something. I don't appreciate false preachers that are always right.

 

[runnah]

I find variables to be perfect. I use one constantly for video. I also have a 10 stop filter that is good but often it's way too dark. Having a bit of adjustment is always nice.