New editing style

[JTPhotographics]

Hi everyone.

I may have posted this before and it may have been deleted, either that or I'm having a senior's moment and I didn't click Post. Any who, let's try again.

-Tech Specs
Canon EOS R
RF 24-105 at 50mm
ISO - 100
F11
1/90

-Lighting
Natural bracketed

-Post processing
See 'What critique Im looking foor'

-Why did I take the shot?
This is a shot from a calendar I worked on last year.

- What was the goal?
Capture this beautiful bike in an old area.

- Did I achieve my goal?
I think so.

- If I could, what would I change?
I would have shot this during the night and light painted it.

-What critique am I looking for?
Im looking for feedback on the editing technique. I'm don't know if this style has a name or if it does what it called, If I were to summaries it, I would say its vintage/washed. Im looking for feedback on hows others see the image on the left. Be critical, I want to try and get this right. This was my first go.

Left- New Style, Right - Original Edit.

 

[snowbear]

Duplicate post however the earlier one lacked the dialog; deleted.

I prefer the one on the right. The colors on the left seem a bit washed out for my taste; maybe it's a contrast setting?

 

[smoke665]

Yep, the C&C was designed to be the place for targeted critique only. The guidelines apply not only to posts, but respondents as well. "Nice shot" comments get deleated with equal response.

For me both shots tick a lot of boxes. The only real niggle for me is the bike (being the focal point) doesn't really stand out in either. Increasing the bikes presence in relation to the background would probably help. There's a color theory that cool colors will appear to recede; warm colors will appear to advance, using that or DOF adjustment will make the bike appear more prominent, as will adjusting the luminosity levels between the two. Your comment on Light Painting, has merit. I've shot several vehicle using off camera flash and a helper, to paint individual areas in multiple shots then blend in as layers post. Excellent way to really bring out the details in the shadows while keeping your exposure low on the highly reflective surfaces.

 

[JTPhotographics]

Yep, the C&C was designed to be the place for targeted critique only. The guidelines apply not only to posts, but respondents as well. "Nice shot" comments get deleated with equal response.

Thanks guys, I was looking at my post and then it wasnt there. I was like.. Did I hit post Well atleast I know now.

Thanks for the feedback. I agree the bike needs a little more pop. This was just a test of the style so I didnt go full in to it. The scene being washed is deliberate. Im looking for it as a style to use when the scene supports it. Ill be interested how it goes with one of my lightpainted bikes.

 

[JTPhotographics]

Light Painting, has merit. I've shot several vehicle using off camera flash and a helper, to paint individual areas in multiple shots then blend in as layers post. Excellent way to really bring out the details in the shadows while keeping your exposure low on the highly reflective surfaces.

This is actually my preferred way of shooting. The old Vauxhall that I posted in the Automotive section is one of my light painted shots.

 

[smoke665]

This is actually my preferred way of shooting. The old Vauxhall that I posted in the Automotive section is one of my light painted shots.

Went back and looked at that...Nice. Chrome is a real PITA as is highly reflective Reds, they either blow or over saturate. I've done anywhere from 20 to 40 layers trying to blend it to recaptured details.

Are you using a wand or flash for painting??? I've used both, don't know if I have a real preference except if I'm outside in sun and need to switch to HSS to darken the background.

Also noticed you said something about a calendar shot. Did you produce the calendar of just do the shots? Pre Covid I had started on a fund raising calendar project for a local Fire Department. Got part way through the shots when everyone went crazy with lock downs. By the time it was possible to work on it, they'd had several leave and a lot of new faces added, which would have required starting over at square one. Just didn't have it in me, I'm at an age now, where every year, slows me down a little more.

 

[cgw]

Bike all but swallowed by the hyper-busy background. Just subtracting the overhead walkways would help draw the eye to the bike. The gorgeous mechanical details of the bike are mostly lost--knockdown the structures, light up the bike. Too small in the frame?

 

[JTPhotographics]

Are you using a wand or flash for painting??? I've used both, don't know if I have a real preference except if I'm outside in sun and need to switch to HSS to darken the background.

I use either a Ulanzi VL119 RGB Tube light or a Ulanzi 40w LED Video Light with Ulanzi 30cm softbox with Grid. For the Vauxhall I used the Ulanzi 40w LED with Softbox and grid. I also have a pair of Neweer 200x portable lights that I'll be using for times when I can't light paint. Sunset for argument's sake.

Chrome is a PITA as you say and more so on Harley. Ive learnt that a walk past shot created a nice line in the Chrome. I typically do three walk buys, one at level, one high and one low for the chrome.

Did you produce the calendar of just do the shots?

I produed the photos and the club that I shot for compiled the calendar. This was for a Social MotorCycle Club who are 'Charity Riders'. The calendars were sold to raise money to improve the club rooms so they could hold better events. The most recent event raised $4500AUD for MND.

'm at an age now, where every year, slows me down a little more.

I shot 8 Harleys in one night due to time preasure. I woke up very hurt the next day so I know how it feels.

The gorgeous mechanical details of the bike are mostly lost--knockdown the structures, light up the bike. Too small in the frame?

All very fair points. Thank you.

 

[smoke665]

Chrome is a PITA as you say and more so on Harley. Ive learnt that a walk past shot created a nice line in the Chrome. I typically do three walk buys, one at level, one high and one low for the chrome.

For me the bigger the light source (softer) the less blown highlight. In studio most don't have the space or money to build and equip a 360 set. If my math is right even the higher end models of wands only give you 4-6 stops @ a generally rated distance of less than 2ft. Move it away and it rapidly falls off.
Outside in ambient, depending on what area im adding light, I might use a speed light with a variety of modifiers, or one of my studio lights with larger modifiers.

Another method that I experimented with several years ago was the Brenzier method. I did a write up on it here Large Format Effect With A Full Frame DSLR the car was ambient light only for a proof of concept. There's some things I noted that would need to be resolved but the reduction of blown highlights on the reflective surfaces was impressive

. The calendars were sold to raise money to improve the club rooms so they could hold better events. The most recent event raised $4500AUD for MND.

I owned a small publishing company years ago, my plan was to produce a money maker for multiple Volunteer Depts, using the same standardized format over and over, with different shots, there by keeping production cost low. Each department would upfront their production costs, and I would receive a royalty on every one sold. I migh revive the project, but as I said earlier there's only so much I can or want to do anymore.

 

[Don Fischer]

Yep, the C&C was designed to be the place for targeted critique only. The guidelines apply not only to posts, but respondents as well. "Nice shot" comments get deleated with equal response.

For me both shots tick a lot of boxes. The only real niggle for me is the bike (being the focal point) doesn't really stand out in either. Increasing the bikes presence in relation to the background would probably help. There's a color theory that cool colors will appear to recede; warm colors will appear to advance, using that or DOF adjustment will make the bike appear more prominent, as will adjusting the luminosity levels between the two. Your comment on Light Painting, has merit. I've shot several vehicle using off camera flash and a helper, to paint individual areas in multiple shots then blend in as layers post. Excellent way to really bring out the details in the shadows while keeping your exposure low on the highly reflective surfaces.

Gonna take a guess at one of these things. The bike I assume is the focal point and think I'd have it in sharp focus and not so much focus in the background. I think then to eye is drawn to the point of the photo and not distracted by the background.

 

[407370]

Hi JT,

To echo some of the other members......

Waaaay too much detail in the background and not enough detail in the bike.

The spot effect on the exhaust (near the ground) in the NEW edit just looks a bit weird.

If I was doing this shot I would have gone with the wide angle at F4 / F6 ish from a slightly higher point, which would have the effect of reducing the overhead intrusion. Lighting with multiple layers of diffusion would have to be judged very carefully to reduce glare on reflective surfaces. I would have used either a Circular Polariser or 1/2 Stop ND to help manage the inevitable hotspots.

For me the Post Processing would be select the bike (to separate from background) and process to bring out the details + some sort of Blur on background.

Hope this helps.

CHEERS
JBO

 

[JTPhotographics]

The spot effect on the exhaust (near the ground) in the NEW edit just looks a bit weird.

Gee you have good eyes. The edit I did was just a quick sample; I think that spot you referring to was where the mask in lightroom hand quite applied to the subject so when I added contrast this bit was left behind.

If I was doing this shot I would have gone with the wide angle at F4 / F6 ish from a slightly higher point, which would have the effect of reducing the overhead intrusion. Lighting with multiple layers of diffusion would have to be judged very carefully to reduce glare on reflective surfaces. I would have used either a Circular Polariser or 1/2 Stop ND to help manage the inevitable hotspots.

All very good points thank you.

And thank you all for the feedback. In this day and age this type of feedback is almost discouraged so we don't hurt people's feelings but for me, I want it so I can learn.

 

[smoke665]

And thank you all for the feedback. In this day and age this type of feedback is almost discouraged so we don't hurt people's feelings but for me, I want it so I can learn.

This ^^^^^ is why C&C was created, and why the guidelines are there. I encourage everyone to participate, not only with posts but comments. We live in a click/scroll world, slowing down and actually learning to critique an image objectively helps us all learn.

 

[407370]

Gee you have good eyes. The edit I did was just a quick sample; I think that spot you referring to was where the mask in lightroom hand quite applied to the subject so when I added contrast this bit was left behind.


All very good points thank you.

And thank you all for the feedback. In this day and age this type of feedback is almost discouraged so we don't hurt people's feelings but for me, I want it so I can learn.

You are very welcome.

My eyes are one of a few bits of me that actually work well.

CHEERS
JBO