Newbie looking for some straight forward advice.

[hydriv]

I believe in being totally candid when looking for help from people who hopefully have much more experience than I do. While I do enjoy taking photos, I would not say that photography ranks high on my list of hobbies. For me, it is more of a means to an end then it is the pursuit of an art form. However, I do have a passion for old garden tractors and I would like to share that passion along with my knowledge about them with other enthusiasts in the form of a book. Without question, people that buy such books love to look at pictures and so I am now researching what the best choice of camera would be for this task.

For years, I used my Minolta X-570 SLR film body with a variety of lenses ranging from 24 MM to a 500 MM mirror. However, it now sits in a drawer totally unused since I purchased a Kodak DX-7590 several years ago. In spite of the rather mundane brand name, this camera has performed admirably for me but as we all know, technology today moves at a rather brisk pace. What's Top Dog today, is yesterday's news in a matter of months.


So.... here I am asking the membership the following question.


If your main purpose is to take digital photos of garden tractors in outdoor and indoor settings while they remain motionless, then what camera would you choose knowing that your photos would be submitted to a publisher for printing?



Some of the things that I wonder about are these:

- at what point does it not really matter when it comes to the number of pixels?

- when it comes to interchangeable lenses on a digital camera, how low can you go before there is noticeable bending?


I am open to suggestions regarding brand as well as model numbers of bodies. I am also open to purchasing a slightly older model (used) if it gives me the quality that is required by the publisher and also saves me money.


Suggestions regarding lens choice would also be appreciated.

Assume that I know nothing about photography. I will not be offended by anything you write. I am here to ask the questions I think need asking and then take in all of the information that is kindly provided.

 

[MLeeK]

If you really want to know more about the megapixel thing google The MegaPixel Myth. Unless you are printing a billboard to be viewed at a distance of a couple of feet, it doesn't matter.
You can definitely go with an older body to save you some money. Any of the DSLRs in the past 5 or 6 years will do an admirable job. It's going to be more about the lens anyway.
Have you looked at or leaned towards any particular brand yet? In your case I'd probably recommend looking at the Pentax DSLR's. You aren't going to upgrade it to a full frame camera or need the flexibility that Nikon or Canon offer. The Pentax entry level cameras are incredibly impressive.

Distortion will happen at wider angles and will also depend a bit on the size of the sensor in the camera you are using.
I have a 17-50 that I use on a crop sensor camera and I am forever getting into trouble with the barrel distortion on the edges. I personally like about 28-35mm on a crop sensor and 50-85mm on a full frame sensor for my wides. You can also fix distortion in Photoshop's raw editor or in Lightroom3.

You didn't mention what kind of lighting you will be working in. That is going to have a major impact on the needs of the camera/lens and on how your images turn out.

 

[Big Mike]

Welcome to the forum.

- at what point does it not really matter when it comes to the number of pixels?

That depends largely on the intended print size...and at this point, has little to do with image quality. A common rule of thumb is that you want 300 pixles per linear inch of print. So for an 8x10 print, you would want an image that is 2400x3000 pixels. That's 7.2 million pixels. But to be honest, photographers have been making much larger prints, from much smaller files (at least out of the camera) for years...so don't put too much stock into that number.

If you can look forward far enough, you might use the size of the book you want to publish and talk to a (the) publisher and ask what resolution would be ideal. They may not even require as much as 300 pixles per inch.

That being said, more pixels give you more leeway to crop into an image, which may be important when designing the layout of the book.

when it comes to interchangeable lenses on a digital camera, how low can you go before there is noticeable bending?

Do you mean lens distortion? That really depends on the particular lens. And distortion really isn't too hard to tweak in post processing if 100% accuracy isn't neccessary.

Did you know that Sony bought the photography division of Minolta? As such, you might be able to use your old Minolta lenses on a newer Sony DSLR. That would be the first thing to check for. If your lenses will work, then you could certianly give yourself more options by going with a Sony. I'm not up to speed on the Sony models, sorry.

If not, then the common advice is to go with either a Canon or Nikon DSLR.
A DSLR (any DSLR) is in many ways, superiour to just about all non-SLR digital (point & shoot) cameras, mostly because of the size of the sensor. Although, if you are going to be shooting everything on a tripod, and can therefore use the lowest ISO setting, a good P&S or 'bridge' camera may suffice....but I still feel that a DSLR is the best choice.

Maybe a bit off-topic, but unless you are writing some sort of manual or documentation, it may be a better option to attempt to compile photos, rather than trying to take new ones yourself.
I'm quite certain that you are correct when you say that for a book like this, the photos/pictures will be very key. I'm not saying that you can't take great pictures to put into a book...but unless you have years to spend doing this...it may be hard to get enough really outstanding images. For example, I'm assuming most/all of the shots will be taken outdoors, and as such, the lighting will be mostly or wholey natural light. You may not have the luxury of photographing every tractor with a beautiful sunset in the background or with really nice early/late light. And of course, there are certain times of the year (especially up here) that are more indusive to getting great shots of tractors in action.
Do you get what I'm trying to say?

Also, if we are talking about those great images, it often doesn't matter too much if they are of high quality. For example, in many books of this type (I'm envisioning a coffee table type book), the photos are often old, possible ragged etc. Either compiled from many sources or taken by someone over a lifetime.

Anyway, welcome aboard. I hope I was of some help, feel free to ask as many questions as you have.

 

[hydriv]

It would certainly be nice to have a digital body that would allow me to take advantage of the lenses I already own. I will have to ask Sony about that. Thanks for the tip.

- Minolta 24 MM - 1:28

- Minolta 50 MM - 1:2

- Minolta 70 - 210 MM

- Soligor 28 - 80 MM - F3.5 - 4.5

- Minolta 500 MM - 1:8 Mirror



You are correct that this is intended to be a coffee table book project. Photos of the tractors I wish to show in that book do not really exist to any extent and when you do come across them, I tend to find fault with them for one reason or another. This project will take me on the road into the upper half of the USA because I will have to go and visit the people who have certain tractors in their personal collections. I suspect that many of them will be outdoor shots whenever the lighting, weather and scenery fall into place. As for the indoor shots, I am open for suggestions regarding what I would need for artificial lighting, aside from the camera's own flash. Naturally, I am trying to travel as light as possible but if I do something, I don't cut corners. Getting high quality shots is what it's all about or I'm just wasting my precious time and money . Photos will be key to the success of the book because the intention is to show the yearly progression along with the models that were offered in each year.


And yes, I was referring to lens distortion that invariably creeps in as the MM number drops below 28.

Thanks to both of you for your replies. I hope to see additional posts in this thread and I will respond about what I'm looking at prior to purchasing it.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

Hope you post up a few pics of those tractors too

 

[hydriv]

I spoke with someone at Henry's and with someone at Vistek and was told that the only backward compatibility with Minolta lens is with the latest generation of auto-focus types. Since my Minolta body is not an auto-focus model, neither are any of my lenses. So.. that closes the door to using a Sony DSLR for that reason.


So once again, I am up for suggestions regarding camera bodies that have the most suitable lenses.

2WheelPhoto......I'd be happy to post some when I get them.

 

[MLeeK]

Not compatible. The X570 is an MD mount. You can use them with an adapter, in which case you can probably get an adapter to almost any digital camera. It will be full manual aperture and focus. No automatic anything. Metering may or may not work thru the lens.

Sony makes use of Minolta's A mount lenses.

 

[hydriv]

Perhaps I might be wise in asking this question.

If I decide to purchase a previously enjoyed DSLR for this project, are there any make/models that I should steer clear of? Has Nikon or Canon ever produced any "less than desirable" units that people now shy away from?

 

[gsgary]

It would certainly be nice to have a digital body that would allow me to take advantage of the lenses I already own. I will have to ask Sony about that. Thanks for the tip.

- Minolta 24 MM - 1:28

- Minolta 50 MM - 1:2

- Minolta 70 - 210 MM

- Soligor 28 - 80 MM - F3.5 - 4.5

- Minolta 500 MM - 1:8 Mirror



You are correct that this is intended to be a coffee table book project. Photos of the tractors I wish to show in that book do not really exist to any extent and when you do come across them, I tend to find fault with them for one reason or another. This project will take me on the road into the upper half of the USA because I will have to go and visit the people who have certain tractors in their personal collections. I suspect that many of them will be outdoor shots whenever the lighting, weather and scenery fall into place. As for the indoor shots, I am open for suggestions regarding what I would need for artificial lighting, aside from the camera's own flash. Naturally, I am trying to travel as light as possible but if I do something, I don't cut corners. Getting high quality shots is what it's all about or I'm just wasting my precious time and money . Photos will be key to the success of the book because the intention is to show the yearly progression along with the models that were offered in each year.


And yes, I was referring to lens distortion that invariably creeps in as the MM number drops below 28.

Thanks to both of you for your replies. I hope to see additional posts in this thread and I will respond about what I'm looking at prior to purchasing it.

Have a look on ebay for A850/A900 they are the best Sony have made and they are Full Frame

 

[MLeeK]

Canon and nikon are reliable pretty far back. I would definitely do my research and I wouldn't go any further back than you have to just for longevity of the body. Not to mention possible number of shots on the body already. Digital Photography Review has a timeline for each camera manufacturer.
What's the budget for this project?

 

[hydriv]

MLeek,
Thanks for the link. I will spend some time there looking around.

BUDGET.....I don't have one.


I'm one of those guys who tries to find out which makes/models are best suited for what I want to accomplish. If I can get away with spending $500.00 and the camera does an excellent job, then I'm fine with that. If I cannot find a camera for $500.00 and have to spend $1000.00, then I'm fine with that too. If spending upwards of $2000.00 is required to get the best results, then so be it. I am not one of those people who buys the most expensive camera to hang around my neck just to try and impress people. To me, a camera is no different than any other tool I would think about purchasing to work on my tractors. I spend what I need to spend but I try to spend wisely. Perhaps I should be thinking "full frame" as that apparently would allow me to use my MD lenses if I buy an adapter. For years, I got along fine with manual focus and I think that I still remember how to twist a barrel. LOL

 

[MLeeK]

you can buy an adapter and use your lenses with a crop sensor, they'll just have a multiplication factor to them. Are you fine with having no metering and no auto or semi auto modes for exposure?

For a camera body you can get away with just about any camera body on the market and quite a few of the older ones.
It's REALLY hard for us to narrow it down for you because you have no specific anything! LOL! You want to take good images and whatever the budget has to be it has to be.
OK.
You also don't really care what brand you purchase as long as it's GOOD quality gear.
OK.
You have no requirements for any of the features... So... You can literally buy any DSLR out there.
If I were in your shoes? You don't need the giant kit down the road. You aren't planning on becoming the next Beckstead or Yervant and shoot high end weddings down the road.
You do want the best bang for your buck. You only need a kit of a few lenses and maybe a speedlight or two for what you want to accomplish. You aren't worried about the upgrades down the line. As long as you can take high quality images this is the end of the line in needs for you. You aren't going to spend hours on here learning to be the greatest photographer ever-you enjoy it but it's NOT your main hobby even.

I really rarely say this... I'd go with the Pentax K-r.
Pentax doesn't strip down their entry level models like Canon and Nikon do. Built in anti shake/image stabilization/vibration reduction in the camera instead of in the lenses. Good solid focus system. Great imaging quality. There is no worry about which lenses are compatible as with the Nikon entry level cameras. Great ISO ability. Fast FPS for an entry level at 6 frames per second.
At $629 with the 35mm prime f/2? It's a steal.
I'd then add a flash and or/maybe 2 with triggers for off camera. I probably would even stick with the 35mm lens as it's a pretty good width for what you are shooting. You won't end up with a lot of barrel distortion, but you'll have sufficient room to get the whole tractor in the frame without having to stand in Timbuktu.

 

[hydriv]

I agree with your analysis of my situation.

What do you think of this package? In particular, the lens choice being offered.

PENTAX K-R D-SLR W/18-55MM DA L (RED) 14734 - Henry's best camera store in Canada

 

[MLeeK]

I agree with your analysis of my situation.

What do you think of this package? In particular, the lens choice being offered.

PENTAX K-R D-SLR W/18-55MM DA L (RED) 14734 - Henry's best camera store in Canada

Not bad at all. What's it cost to get something shipped to you from Adorama or B&H? The reason I ask is that they have the kit with the 35mm for under that (USD) and the 35 is going to be a better quality lens than the zoom. Not that the kit lenses are really BAD at all. Primes are just the sharpest lenses out there.

It's a 50/50 thing. The zoom would allow you a bit of flexibility that the prime won't and you may well want that...

 

[hydriv]

Here's the problem with purchasing camera gear and electronics from the states. Quite often, my purchase would still be subjected to the sales tax of that particular state, I would have to pay shipping fees to get it here, I would still get hit with 13% HST (harmonized sales tax) when it reaches my Customs, there would be a hidden brokerage fee charged by Fed-Ex or UPS and that would be based on the amount of the purchase and much of this would be subject to the current exchange rate between the stronger US dollar and the slightly weaker Canadian dollar plus........there would likely be no warranty on the camera. Many manufacturers will only warranty their products in the country of origin. If it's sold in Canada, then the warranty applies just in Canada. If it's sold in the USA, then you have to seek out your warranty there. When you factor all of that in, it just isn't worth it and that's exactly why they do it that way. Of course, someone could go on a vacation into the USA and buy the product in a US store. However, they would be legally required to declare that purchase when re-entering Canada. If they did not declare it and Customs found it while doing a random search, then they might be required to produce a bill of sale from a Canadian retailer to prove the stuff was bought in Canada. And if they were found to be smuggling the product into Canada then Customs has the right to seize the product along with the vehicle the product is being transported in.


That listing is at Henry's but they are not the only game in town when it comes to camera deals. I agree with you that fixed optics are superior to zoom lenses but I wonder if the difference is highly noticeable given the quality of all lenses today? I can shop that body to see if anyone is offering the 35 mm lens as part of the package but all too often, such packages are put together by Nikon, Canon, Pentax etc in Canada vs a different package from their USA counterparts.


As a sidebar, it certainly didn't take me long to slam into sticker shock yesterday while researching full frame camera bodies. LOL It's been a long time since I've looked at camera prices and I was totally unaware of the leap in price-point from the consumer level to the PRO level. I simply don't use a camera often enough or intensely enough to justify spending six to ten grand just for the body. So it fell into the "seemed like a good idea at the time" category pretty fast.