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non cpu metering issue?

Sounds like the automatic diaphragm linkage is broken! I have never,ever heard of an AF Nikkor needing to be programmed as if it a non-CPU lens...

Can you put the lens on the camera, and look through the front of the lens, and see if it is actually stopping down to the mid- and smaller apertures??? My feeling is that the diaphragm is NOT stopping down when the camera is shooting exposures.

We were posting at the same time. Honestly I can't see the blades move when its on cam, I checked for that and thought maybe i just couldn't see well enough to notice.

Adjusting in full stops, you should definitely notice. If it stops moving at some point, *something* is broken.

I mainly shoot Canon ... on a Canon body, you can hold down the DOF preview button and change the aperture at the same time. Doing this, you should see the blades move each time you change it. Can you do the same on your body?
 
Sounds like the automatic diaphragm linkage is broken! I have never,ever heard of an AF Nikkor needing to be programmed as if it a non-CPU lens...

Can you put the lens on the camera, and look through the front of the lens, and see if it is actually stopping down to the mid- and smaller apertures??? My feeling is that the diaphragm is NOT stopping down when the camera is shooting exposures.

We were posting at the same time. Honestly I can't see the blades move when its on cam, I checked for that and thought maybe i just couldn't see well enough to notice.

Adjusting in full stops, you should definitely notice. If it stops moving at some point, *something* is broken.

I mainly shoot Canon ... on a Canon body, you can hold down the DOF preview button and change the aperture at the same time. Doing this, you should see the blades move each time you change it. Can you do the same on your body?

YOU JUST NAILED IT FOR ME!

Here is what I found, at f/22 the lens doesn't get any darker than F5. Once I saw that I played with the lever on a good lens and it had a "springie" effect. The ancient one doesn't, it stays in place although the blades move fine.

Thank you all for the tips and help!
 
So, did holding down the DOF preview button work (did it make the blades move when they didn't before), or did it show you that your lens is toast?

...My only fear is that this may turn out to be a problem with the body. (Which is hopefully still under warranty, if it is the problem.)

If the good lens works normally, it's probably not the body though...
 
The diaphragm actuation spring in the lens is not working. Pretty easy repair for a lens repairman.
 
The diaphragm actuation spring in the lens is not working. Pretty easy repair for a lens repairman.

I had $40 in that lens. I may call the repairman at the shop tomorrow and have it fixed and sell it. But anyway, I'm replacing it. I have a x-country motorcycle trip in a week.

Thanks again for all the help, and I sure learned a lot.
 
Looks like a sticky aperture (a common problem with older lenses, which can be fixed by having it professionally serviced), if you flip the aperture lever with your finger it should feel "snappy."Btw this is not a non-CPU lens. All af lenses are "CPU"
 
Thanks djacobox. Derrel let me know too its a CPU lens. I'm learning and appreciate the help.
 
In the mean time you should be able to use the lens in Aperture mode or Manual. Setting the aperture manually in A mode will still allow the camera to adjust the shutter speed if you are uncomfortable shooting in manual.

I don't know your level of expertise but if you just set the aperture to f8 in daylight and f4 in the dark you'll be ok.
 
In the mean time you should be able to use the lens in Aperture mode or Manual. Setting the aperture manually in A mode will still allow the camera to adjust the shutter speed if you are uncomfortable shooting in manual.I don't know your level of expertise but if you just set the aperture to f8 in daylight and f4 in the dark you'll be ok.
That will only work if he shoots at the widest aperture; if his aperture is sticky it won't stop down to the selected aperture quickly enough, so it will only be reliable if u shoot wide open.
 
I bought a 24-70 f/2.8 that solved all my woes
icononethumbup.gif
 
A 24-70 f/2.8 will solve a lotta woes! ;)

DJ, when shooting in A or M the aperture isn't changed by the camera so where ever you put it is where it stays. So long as the blades make it to the setting, you'' be good as far as the aperture goes.
 

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