Not too happy with my D7000 Quality... HELP!

The sb28's are good. Another option is the flashpoint 320m ii. Can't go wrong at 100 bucks. I would get one of these before a flash. I have flashes and love them but for choices in modifiers, mono lights have the advantage. It will cost you the same as the sb28 but you will lack mobility. If studio type fashion use is your concern, you'd might see more use out of one. Especially, with the modeling light showing you where the light falls and the wider area of coverage. Add to quicker recycle time and no need for batteries. Everyone has their opinions and that's just mine. Outdoors? Travel light? Can't beat a speedlight.
 
@cgipson1: Thank you for all of your help. I went ahead and did some research on the Nikon SB-28 you recommended and I have ordered (1) for now. I have another flash unit from an older Olympus I have and will use the two and see the results I get. I will post on here sometime next week the shots. I have also ordered a Wireless Remote system as well. I am excited to see the differences. I have been wanting to "go flash" for awhile now so your suggestions were just enough to push me over the edge and pull the trigger. Thanks again.
 
DGFinePhoto said:
@cgipson1: Thank you for all of your help. I went ahead and did some research on the Nikon SB-28 you recommended and I have ordered (1) for now. I have another flash unit from an older Olympus I have and will use the two and see the results I get. I will post on here sometime next week the shots. I have also ordered a Wireless Remote system as well. I am excited to see the differences. I have been wanting to "go flash" for awhile now so your suggestions were just enough to push me over the edge and pull the trigger. Thanks again.

Just keep in mind the sb28 is a non ittl flash. That means you will control the settings on the flash. Take a look at the mono light. You can't beat the power dollar for dollar.
 
Just keep your shutter speed up and you'll notice a huge difference. Also use continuous focus as a person moves around. If you're in single focus your point locks on and of that person moves even a millimeter it can throw off your entire image. Especially when shooting at a wide aperture like 2.8 or 1.8
 
This is really a dumb problem... Hello your shutter speed is wayyyyyy to slow try 1/250
 
Since I too have a D7000, I had to read through this to find out what might happen to my camera that would make me not pleased with it. Well its a bit of a deceptive heading. Nothing wrong with the camera, you just have to learn the principles of photography and learn your camera. You have had it a year, and admit not using it much. You say you shoot hand held because of flexibility. I thought this was your choice from experience, not from ignorance. When you learn the principles of light, aperture and shutter speed then you might understand the benefits of shooting with a tripod vs. shooting hand held. The example on the right above looks like you shot a tv screen. Ive never seen an image that bad come out of a D7000 before. All is not lost. You have a great camera, all you have to do is learn to use it.
 
You're about 3 months late, but thanks for digging up the dead thread.

How did you decide to recommend 1/250? Why not 1/125? 1/125 is fast enough for using a 90 mm focal length.

What if the OP wanted the ambient light more closely balanced with the strobed light exposure?

1/60 to 1/250 is 2 stops. So in the first example above: f
/8, 1/60, and flash - the f/8 would have to be f/4, and the flash power output would have to be turned down.
 
You're about 3 months late, but thanks for digging up the dead thread.

How did you decide to recommend 1/250? Why not 1/125? 1/125 is fast enough for using a 90 mm focal length.

What if the OP wanted the ambient light more closely balanced with the strobed light exposure?

1/60 to 1/250 is 2 stops. So in the first example above: f
/8, 1/60, and flash - the f/8 would have to be f/4, and the flash power output would have to be turned down.

Some know a little, some know alot.
 

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