On Developing At Home...

[Tee]

Firstly, I initially had about a billion questions about film but after reading almost every thread in this forum, I only have about 100. :mrgreen: The idea of developing my film at home and then using a scanner appeals to me. I'm new to film. I'm excited. I'd really like to try developing on my own in a few months.

Now on to my question: when removing the film from the canister and loading it into the film tank, does the room have to be pitch black? Where I'm getting confused is watching videos of darkrooms with safe lights when making prints but when I watch videos of the actual developing into negatives, it says to be in a pitch black room. I'm not sure if they mean load into the tank in a darkroom (which has the safe light on) or literally pitch black to where you can't see your hand. If it is in a pitch black room, how many tries did it take you to get it right? I'm guessing I should practice on a roll of film in the light to get the system down and take that roll for the team in the spirit of learning. Thanks!

 

[Cruzingoose]

Film needs to be handled in complete darkness. Once safely in the tank the light can be turned on. Use an old film to practice spooling on yor reels. With steel spirial reels the film will follow the spirial from the inside out and is easy to master if you keep a slight curve in the film as you wind. Plastic reels wind from the outside in. Feed the film with a twisting motion of the two halfs of the reel.

 

[c.cloudwalker]

^^^^^ That is correct. And with 35mm film, it is fairly easy to learn.

Medium format film is a bit harder to manage and sheet film is easiest, imho.

Good luck to you.

 

[Tee]

Thank you both. I'm doing some travelling with work so I won't be able to try it on my own for a few months. I'll definitely practice on a roll of film in the light before going for real. Which spool is recommended- the plastic or metal or does it make a difference?

 

[KenC]

I always had good results with plastic. The metal reels have the reputation of being a little trickier to load, but I never used them, so can't say first-hand. This is a newer version of the one I used:

Paterson Universal Tank with Reel (Super System 4) PTP115 B&H

I'd get the tank that holds two reels and the two reels, so you have the option of developing two at a time if you want. Otherwise, you just put in a second empty reel to keep the first one from floating out of the chemicals. They also have four-reel tanks, but they seem kind of cumbersome, although I never actually used them. Have fun!

 

[compur]

Safelights are for printing, not for film development.

You don't need a darkroom to load film for developing. There is a thing called a changing bag used for this purpose.

Here is one:
Arista Changing Bag 27 in. x 30 in. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

 

[JSER]

? dark or not, think about it, if you are able to take a photograph at 1000th of a second at f22 then dark as in film loading bag,



Also before using a reel to load film assuming you have removed the leader, place the reel on a radiator for 30 minutes or use a hair dryer to remove all moisture as any at all will cause it to stick, no I have never had a problem from day 1.

 

[c.cloudwalker]

Which spool is recommended- the plastic or metal or does it make a difference?

I have plastic for 35mm and metal for medium format. I know there were reasons why I went to metal but I don't remember what they were. One of them may be that plastic eventually gets contaminated or doesn't last as long or something... Maybe Ann or Helen will chime in, they both have more recent experience than I do.

One thing is for sure, a metal tank with two reels is smaller than its plastic equivalent.


About changing bags, save your money by using a bathroom with no window (1/2 baths usually don't have one) or a closet. That's is all that's needed.

About the leader, yes, you need to cut it (although I just cut it straight myself) but it's easy to do in the dark so you really don't need to go fish the film out of the canister. And I sure as hell would not load the film on the reel without first removing it from the canister. Anything with the potential to scratch the film should be avoided. To crack the canister, I have an old bottle opener like used to be found on soda machine in the time of bottles

 

[ann]

Metal or plastic, always the question.

Advantages of metal, can load film if the reel is damp.
uses less chemistry

Disadvantages, folks seem to have issues at first when not getting the film between the "spokes" so the film sticks to film which means it doesn't develop. If you drop it , it bends, have to replace.

It loads from the center out, which is where the problems seem to arise.

Plastic,
easy to learn with, If you drop it, it usually bounces, once in awhile it may break but not as expensive to replace as metal

disadvantages, has to be very dry to re-use, so if you have a lot of film to develop it will take longer. Uses more chemistry.

Am sure if Helen drops in she will agree, years ago all the had was metal and one learned to use them. PERIOD. There were tanks that would take an "apron", but those didn't come along till much later in my photo life, and then finally the plastic

Frankly , a changing bag is a pain, your hands sweat and when your palms get damp the edge of the negative gets damp, all resulting in more loading issues.

You can cut off the leader, but it is really easy and I would never load the reel without removing the film, no use in setting up an opportunity for scratching the film

Never heard of taking a reel to a hair dryer , unless it was damp to begin with. or setting it on a radiator, In normal room conditions the reels should be dry.

I have been known to load every reel in sight, regardless ' metal or plastic. 1 reel tank, 8 reel tank, no difference to me, but I have been doing this for 64years . Loading film is a muscle memory skill and I still tend to close my eyes when loading rolled film as that is how i learned.

Practice with an outdate roll of film. A few times with your eyes open, and then close your eyes, or put your hands and the reel under a table to practice. I knew someone who could load film with the reel and film behind his back.

How long it will take you to master this skill, hard to say. I have had students load film in less than 5 minutes, the first time, after about 10 minutes of practice. On the other hand, a gentleman last night practiced for over an hour and in the end , we had to go into the film changing room and help in out. There is no way to know.

Just have fun. developing film is really very easy, and after loading the film, it is all about measuring and clock watching. Frankly, after awhile it is boring, but a necessary evil to having control of your process

 

[Tee]

Thank you all for the detailed replies. I've noticed this sub forum is really passionate and I appreciate the help. This weekend I'm leaving on a work assignment that will have me off the radar for a few months. I wanted to use this time to learn film, study light and make every frame count (or at least attempt to). I am getting a few days in NYC (B&H) in May and plan to get my eyes on everything I'll need for my return in September. I'm taking 20 rolls of Tri-X with me.

Speaking of NYC- any recommendations for a same day/ next day develop/print/scan to CD place?

Danke!

 

[Josh66]

Another disadvantage of metal - Blix (if you're going to do color) and some B&W developers are corrosive. Make sure you clean them good after use to prevent corrosion.

I don't think there is really any right or wrong when it comes to plastic vs. metal - it's mostly a personal preference type of thing.

I agree with Ann though, developing is boring, but neccessary.

 

[mkoller]

I always use metal reels. It really gets easier as you do it a few times. just have patients. set out the reels, tank cover, bottle opener and scissors in specific spots with the reel catches facing you. (just be consistent) make sure you visualize where everything is before you kill ALL the lights. most b&w paper is not sensitive to all visible light. most film s panchromatic and sensitive to all visible light. ( I think thats right?) Any way you need total darkness to load general black and white film into a developing tank. It gets pretty easy with practice. just do not get discouraged if a few rolls get messed up. sometimes those frames can be the coolest ones. If they are important pictures put of developing them until you gain a little confidence. It shouldn't take long.

 

[480sparky]

You do realize this is a 3-year old thread, don't you?

 

[Rick58]

I guess good advice is timeless

 

[christopher walrath]

I always miss that once these things are resurrected. Eesh.