Parade and a few Fuji questions

[CherylL]

I am still getting used to handling the Fuji X-T2. Went to a parade and fumbled my way changing settings too much. The evening light was behind me, the parade coming up the street had shade until it was in front of me, and the grands were to the left moving inside and outside of shade with sun in their backs.

Had the camera set to go no lower than 60 shutter speed, ISO at 200, and using the dial to change shutter speed. At times I was changing the aperture on the lens to control the light. The back wheel only changes the shutter speed a few stops. Googled today and if I change the dial to T then the back wheel will change shutter speeds the full range. I had my focus points at 91 with the largest spot focus available.

What is a better way to shoot in changing moving conditions? 325 focus points? Zone? Face recognition? What would be good base settings and which would be easier to change on the fly?

1.


2.


3. The optimist club haunted trail advertisement


4.The optimist club


5.


6. The guy standing on the pickup had his own dance party during the parade. At one time he was twerking.


7.

 

[CherylL]

Please edit title Fuji not Fugi

 

[SquarePeg]

FIFY.

When I'm in changing conditions with my XT2, I use Auto ISO. I set the shutter speed to where I'm comfortable for the lens I'm using then usually go one stop faster just to be sure I don't have any camera movement. I adjust aperture based on what I'm shooting/how much dof I want. I keep an eye on the ISO and open up the lens if I need to - I like to keep it under 8000 but I think the XT2 handles up to 12800 really well so I don't worry about it too much. I have lots of photos at 12800 ISO that I absolutely love.

 

[SquarePeg]

In most situations, I use single point AF with the 91 focus points and I use the smallest focus spot that will still capture some contrast. For fast moving subjects like sports, I use AF-C and zone focus. I found I have much better success with face recognition turned off.

 

[Derrel]

In rapidly changing conditions, in which the light shifts from bright to dark, I find that manual exposure mode with auto ISO enabled, -
And f/stop and shutter speed parameters set appropriately, is the best way to shoot.

 

[Dean_Gretsch]

Looks like a Fuji takes quite a bit of use to learn? I really like the Zombie clown and oversized hammer!

 

[Gary A.]

Looks like a Fuji takes quite a bit of use to learn? I really like the Zombie clown and oversized hammer!

If you're an old film user, then the Fuji is sweet as it replicates the controls on a SLR.

 

[Gary A.]

For action, I size the focus reticle to the middle size. There are five sizes.

 

[CherylL]

On a walk in a tourist area that was an outdoor mall, I tried the Auto ISO and the images were a tad underexposed. This was using evaluative metering and the scene was shaded. So in this setting the Exposure Comp dial would be the fastest to change? My camera was used and I have gone into to all the menus checking the settings. Maybe I missed something.

@Dean_Gretsch the Fuji camera seems fairly intuitive after reading the online manual many times. Coming from using a Canon 5D with 70D & T4i prior, things are not the same. With the 5D I can switch up without much thinking so it is me that is fumbling on the Fuji.

I probably should walk on a trail or park and practice switching things around. Thanks for everyone's advice.

 

[SquarePeg]

On a walk in a tourist area that was an outdoor mall, I tried the Auto ISO and the images were a tad underexposed. This was using evaluative metering and the scene was shaded. So in this setting the Exposure Comp dial would be the fastest to change? My camera was used and I have gone into to all the menus checking the settings. Maybe I missed something.

@Dean_Gretsch the Fuji camera seems fairly intuitive after reading the online manual many times. Coming from using a Canon 5D with 70D & T4i prior, things are not the same. With the 5D I can switch up without much thinking so it is me that is fumbling on the Fuji.

I probably should walk on a trail or park and practice switching things around. Thanks for everyone's advice.

Yes, I would use exposure compensation if I wasn't getting the look I wanted.

 

[SquarePeg]

I found the ebook X Series Unlimited by Dan Bailey to have a lot of good AF and setting suggestions. Not the biggest bargain but helpful in learning the XT2 for a Fuji newbie.

 

[Fujidave]

When I do the Gay Pride here in Brighton, I use zone and it never lets me down.

 

[Jeff15]

I like these images.....

 

[jcdeboever]

For events like that, I shoot manual all the way. Set my desired ISO based on condition (400 for that scene and probably the day) Single point focus (325), raw, center weight meter, and use manual focus with high red peaking, no preview on. I'm essentially using it like a film SLR. Keeper rate is very good. Manual enables me to adjust things quickly, let a say a person with a colorful pinwheel and I want to show motion blur on it but keep the person sharp, I drop the shutter, close the aperture , and smooth the background in post if needed. I have become so accustomed to sunny 16 rule because of the Nikon F, I set my camera there to start and it's very fast (minor) adjustment, if any most of the day. I have my EC adjustment on the rear dial which gives you like -5 or +5 if I recall correctly and use it. My thumb is used on the joystick and rear wheel. Super easy camera to use, just wonderful for me. I wish my Nikon F had a EC dial, lol.

I don't think there is a right or wrong way, just what your used to doing. I think you could literally put the lens in A and the shutter on A, set auto ISO range, put EC on rear dial, matrix meter, and shoot your butt off all day if you wanted. The camera is that good. I just love the level of control you have at your disposal with the XT2, it's one, fine, camera.

 

[CherylL]

For events like that, I shoot manual all the way. Set my desired ISO based on condition (400 for that scene and probably the day) Single point focus (325), raw, center weight meter, and use manual focus with high red peaking, no preview on. I'm essentially using it like a film SLR. Keeper rate is very good. Manual enables me to adjust things quickly, let a say a person with a colorful pinwheel and I want to show motion blur on it but keep the person sharp, I drop the shutter, close the aperture , and smooth the background in post if needed. I have become so accustomed to sunny 16 rule because of the Nikon F, I set my camera there to start and it's very fast (minor) adjustment, if any most of the day. I have my EC adjustment on the rear dial which gives you like -5 or +5 if I recall correctly and use it. My thumb is used on the joystick and rear wheel. Super easy camera to use, just wonderful for me. I wish my Nikon F had a EC dial, lol.

I don't think there is a right or wrong way, just what your used to doing. I think you could literally put the lens in A and the shutter on A, set auto ISO range, put EC on rear dial, matrix meter, and shoot your butt off all day if you wanted. The camera is that good. I just love the level of control you have at your disposal with the XT2, it's one, fine, camera.

I don't think there is a right or wrong way, just what your used to doing.

Thanks for the input and the above statement was an aha moment for me. On the 5D I set my aperture first and the ISO is dependent on how much I want to drag the shutter. I was trying to do this with the Fuji plus trying to change the ISO and shutter dial on the fly since I didn't have full range dragging the shutter. I think if set the Fuji to T on the shutter dial then I will have the full range to drag the shutter. But, need to keep an eye on the shutter speed. I do have it set in camera to not go below 60, but with it in T mode it goes below.

Took some practice shots with the using the Auto ISO and exposure comp. The test shots of the pups using the method of T and dragging the shutter worked best for me. Changing the Aperture on the fly felt natural too. I changed to center weighted metering and 325 points with smaller spot focus and things are looking much better. Tried out the Zone focus and think this would work if I used a smaller aperture.

I've never used the Aperture or Shutter priority before on the 5D. I have used Auto ISO and exp. comp a few times.

Thanks for everyone's help.