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Photographing the Moon!!

alamgirkhan

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What lens should I use for photographing the moon. Most of the pics I took came out blurry.
 
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I would use a pretty long focal length. As for the blurriness, make sure to use a tripod, and you might want to use a shutter release cable or the built in timer on your camera.
 
Post still images not a slide show video it makes viewing the images easier.

What lens should I use for photographing the moon. Most of the pics I took came out blurry.

I cannot say that they are blurry because they EXTREMELY over exposed so there is no detail in the moon to be able to say weather or not they are sharp or blurry.
 
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/beyond-basics/147712-lunar-moon-photography-guide-astrostu.html

The camera is looking through about 50 miles worth of atmosphere, if it pointed straight up.
If the camera is pointed half way between the horizon and straight up the atmosphere is about 75 miles thick.
Near the horizon the atmosphere is 125 miles thick.

Earth's atmosphere is always moving and causes some amount of blurring. The trick is to photograph the Moon on a night when the atmosphere is a steady as possible.

The longer the lens focal length the better - 500 mm and longer.

A common mistake is to use to small a lens aperture and hurting focus even more from diffraction. The Moon in 250,000 miles away so any camera lens focused on the Moon will be deliver way more than enough depth-of-field using a wide to middle lens aperture.

The Moon is also pretty bright, so the camera settings you need are more akin to daylight photography than night photography.
 
I shot it today after a few beers, just 'cause. Had no clear view so there are sticks in the way.

handheld withe a 70-300


302086_658422907504711_604986101_n.jpg
 
Well, the best way to photograph the moon is obviously through a telescope.

With normal lenses - well, the longer the better. You just cant be too long with conventional lenses. Ever. According to Wikipedia, the angular diameter of the moon is between 29.3 and 34.1 arcminutes, i.e. about half a degree. The viewfield of a 800mm lens, which is available, but more than 10k $ or € expensive for Canikon, is about 3 degree. This is if you would have a circular sensor, so theres some loss with a rectangular sensor, but the 2000mm mentioned in the thread would be about enough to actually fill the typical 2x3 rectangular sensor completely with the moon.
 
Last time I did it was with 300mm lens, AV mode at f8, iso 100, spot metering with -2 exposure compensation. Camera was on a tripod with mirror lock enabled and I used the built in timer as I don't have a remote shutter release thingy. It turned out ok with a 100% crop.
 
A lens with the longest reach would be your best bet. I've taken some decent shots at 300mm with my Nikkor 70-300 lens. Blur should not be an issue from camera shake since you should be shooting at fast shutter speeds to keep the detail in the moon. I assume your blurry photo is a result of poor focus. You don't need a tripod to shoot the moon.

$Full moon April 26, 2013.webp
 
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/beyond-basics/147712-lunar-moon-photography-guide-astrostu.html

The camera is looking through about 50 miles worth of atmosphere, if it pointed straight up.
If the camera is pointed half way between the horizon and straight up the atmosphere is about 75 miles thick.
Near the horizon the atmosphere is 125 miles thick.

Earth's atmosphere is always moving and causes some amount of blurring. The trick is to photograph the Moon on a night when the atmosphere is a steady as possible.

The longer the lens focal length the better - 500 mm and longer.

A common mistake is to use to small a lens aperture and hurting focus even more from diffraction. The Moon in 250,000 miles away so any camera lens focused on the Moon will be deliver way more than enough depth-of-field using a wide to middle lens aperture.

The Moon is also pretty bright, so the camera settings you need are more akin to daylight photography than night photography
.

^This.
I suspect your problem has MUCH more to do with the settings you're using than with the lens. A longer lens will allow you to fill more of the frame with the moon, to be sure, but if the settings aren't right, you'll just have a much bigger, overexposed fuzzy blob.

Post a still picture and tell us what camera, lens and settings you're using and you might get a bit better advice on how to improve.
 
The angular diameter of the moon is "about" 1/2º wide (the moon's distance from Earth varies about a 10% across the lunar month). That means even with a 300mm lens, the narrowest measurement of the frame (the vertical) on an APS-C crop-frame is about 3º across.... roughly enough to fit 6 moons in it.

You can calculate the angular dimension of a lens (and many other calculations) using this site (I have this bookmarked in my Photography bookmarks): http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/calc.htm

Basically what this means is... use the longest lens you have. When I image the moon, I use a telescope.

This image was taken with a apochromatic refractor... in this case it was a Meade 80mm ED Triplet APO (an f/6 scope with a 480mm focal length). This gave me an angular field of view that was only 1.8º high -- so the moon occupies a little over 1/4 of that height. I can crop in from there and not worry about it.

The exposure for the moon will roughly be one stop below the Sunny 16 rule (f/11 rather than f/16) BUT... when shooting through a telescope you don't get to pick your f-stop... the scope "is what it is". In my case it's an f/6 scope. That's nearly 2 stops down from f/11 which means I need to use a shutter speed two stops up to compensate. BTW, while I make a practice of always including EXIF Data in my images, ignore the EXIF data on this image. I'm not sure why, but it's wrong and I'm not quite sure how some random data got attached to this image. Usually when I'm attached to a scope it will not know the lens or the aperture and it leaves them blank, but this time it actually added random values. I may have used a filter with this image... I don't recall. I did do a tiny bit of sharpening, exposure and levels adjustment on this. It was brighter straight out of the camera.

Here's the result:


Copernicus Crater by Tim Campbell1, on Flickr

(One of these days I'll re-take this shot using my TeleVue NP101 -- a 540mm focal length f/5.4 scope, but it has even better optics than the Meade at the observatory.)

ALSO... I should point out the problem of "seeing". The atmosphere causes distortions in astro-photos. It's the reason stars "twinkle". If you see a lot of twinkling stars when you're trying to photograph the moon... best to just wait for another night.

I made a video of this at the observatory to show off the effect. This a shot of the moon through the observatory's Celestron C-14 SCT telescope. This is a telescope with roughly a 3900mm focal length (so this is rather magnified). We've got a Stellacam mounted to the scope (this is basically a video camera designed specifically for astro-video use). I'm playing the "live" video feed onto an observatory monitor. The Stellacam, unfortunately, _only_ puts out "video" ... not digital (there's no USB or Firewire) so I would have needed a video capture box to capture this directly on the computer. As such, I just used an iPhone to show the effect. The video is only about 10 seconds long but you'll QUICKLY get the idea of what "seeing" is.

We tell people to imaging they're trying to get a photograph of a penny on resting on the bottom of a swimming pool. If the water is flat then you'll be able to get a pretty good image of that penny. But if I start making waves on the pool it will be EXTREMELY difficult for you to manage a sharp shot. That's what astronomers mean when they refer to "seeing" conditions.

Here's the video:

 
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...........
We tell people to imaging they're trying to get a photograph of a penny on resting on the bottom of a swimming pool.......


The angular size of the moon is the same as a dime at 6'4½", or a quarter at 8'6".
 
Yep 300mm the moon will be pretty small and requires much cropping.
Perfect compact setup is something along the lines of the Celestron C90
kind of setup for getting closer without all the cropping.


Harvest Moon Oct. 2009 Cropped by Orbmiser, on Flickr
Settings: 1/800ƒ/5ISO 200185 mm


Moon over Belfry by Orbmiser, on Flickr

Both images Handheld. And many shooters overexpose for moon.
But the moon is a pretty Bright object in the sky.
Easy to shoot at smaller apertures and faster shutter speeds handheld if need be.
.
 
$moon.webp
What lens should I use for photographing the moon. Most of the pics I took came out blurry.
I am an amateur right now; but here is one I took a short while ago. It's a nice picture, but lacks in clarity/definition. This pic is what happens when you just set your camera on Auto :)
 

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