Practicing night shots, New Camera, C&C

35mm4me

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New Camera Nikon D3100, it’s been a long time coming, Shooting in Manual now, #2 was with the white balance set to cloudy.

Thanks for looking
#1



#2



 
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35mm4me

35mm4me

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Any opinion on settings ,aperture ,shutter speed, focus. trying to stay in manual settings so that I am in control of each picture . new learning curve coming from point and shoot digital . Thanks.
 

Tailgunner

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Any opinion on settings ,aperture ,shutter speed, focus. trying to stay in manual settings so that I am in control of each picture . new learning curve coming from point and shoot digital . Thanks.

Congrats on making the switch from P&S to DSLR and I commend you on diving off into manual mode. There is a learning curve but it's not too bad and can be fun...a lot more fun learning digital than wasting film anyhow.

Anyways, The sky seems a little orange or too warming on #2, maybe cut back a notch on the white balance? Other than that I Ike it. I shoot a lot of nighttime buildings and all I can say is experiment with different settings. I would also suggest a tripod or monopod to help steady things on lower shutter speeds.
 

masquerad101

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I am still just using A mode and S mode so I cant give you any advice but the first one look good to me. I just purchased th D3200 so maybe you can help me find my way around the camera as its my first DSLR in a few years as Im just getting back into photography?
 

Tailgunner

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I am still just using A mode and S mode so I cant give you any advice but the first one look good to me. I just purchased th D3200 so maybe you can help me find my way around the camera as its my first DSLR in a few years as Im just getting back into photography?

Ken Rockwall has a nice setup guide for both the D3100 & D3200

Nikon D3200 User's Guide
 
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35mm4me

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When I shoot buildings at night I use a tripod, lower the shutter speed and lower the ISO to about 200. What settings did you have the first picture at?

#1
ISO 800, f/5.6 , 1sec, tripod
#2
ISO 800, f/3.5, ½ sec, tripod
 

Geaux

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I am still just using A mode and S mode so I cant give you any advice but the first one look good to me. I just purchased th D3200 so maybe you can help me find my way around the camera as its my first DSLR in a few years as Im just getting back into photography?

nothing wrong with A and S modes. I've been shooting for years with those modes, mostly A, but shoot strictly manual for specialty stuff and strobing.

When I shoot buildings at night I use a tripod, lower the shutter speed and lower the ISO to about 200. What settings did you have the first picture at?

#1
ISO 800, f/5.6 , 1sec, tripod
#2
ISO 800, f/3.5, ½ sec, tripod

yup, drop that ISO to your lowest native and adjust shutter accordingly. If you're in a tripod, let that shutter run.
 

ElectroSpotlight

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When I shoot buildings at night I use a tripod, lower the shutter speed and lower the ISO to about 200. What settings did you have the first picture at?

#1
ISO 800, f/5.6 , 1sec, tripod
#2
ISO 800, f/3.5, ½ sec, tripod

Yea I would drop the ISO and have a longer exposure time. I am doing some night shooting this weekend in Los Angeles. I will post pics soon.
 

Derrel

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I would tend to agree with ElectroSpotlight: I'd favor lowering the ISO value from 800, and lengthening the exposure time. Why? Well, basicslly, slowish times like 1/2 second, can cause blurring due to vibration. In a short time exposure, like a 1-second exposure, or a 1/2 second shot, there can be residual vibration from the mirror going up, and the shutter's first curtain slapping to the OPEN position, and this vibration can persist for what is effectively, half, or even three-quarters of the exposure's overall,total duration.

The effects of mirror slap, and the first curtain's opening, are made worse on a flimsy tripod or a weak tripod head, or if the shutter release is pressed by hand, there can be a pretty fair amount of vibration. Unless the ground is vibrating, or MAY suffer from vibration, such as from nearby vehicular traffic, I think somewhat longer exposures in the 5-second to 20-second time range are just easier to work with.

You need to test this out. With LONG lenses, vibration can be a big issue sometimes. Speeds in the 1/10 to 1-second range seem to be prone to vibration effects, more so than longer, or briefer times. Some tripods and "some" cameras seem to have some type of resonance vibration issues, which are model-specific. The Fuji S2 Pro for example, seemed to suffer a LOT from this, whereas the Nikon D70 did not have the same issues.
 
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35mm4me

35mm4me

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I would tend to agree with ElectroSpotlight: I'd favor lowering the ISO value from 800, and lengthening the exposure time. Why? Well, basicslly, slowish times like 1/2 second, can cause blurring due to vibration. In a short time exposure, like a 1-second exposure, or a 1/2 second shot, there can be residual vibration from the mirror going up, and the shutter's first curtain slapping to the OPEN position, and this vibration can persist for what is effectively, half, or even three-quarters of the exposure's overall,total duration.

The effects of mirror slap, and the first curtain's opening, are made worse on a flimsy tripod or a weak tripod head, or if the shutter release is pressed by hand, there can be a pretty fair amount of vibration. Unless the ground is vibrating, or MAY suffer from vibration, such as from nearby vehicular traffic, I think somewhat longer exposures in the 5-second to 20-second time range are just easier to work with.

You need to test this out. With LONG lenses, vibration can be a big issue sometimes. Speeds in the 1/10 to 1-second range seem to be prone to vibration effects, more so than longer, or briefer times. Some tripods and "some" cameras seem to have some type of resonance vibration issues, which are model-specific. The Fuji S2 Pro for example, seemed to suffer a LOT from this, whereas the Nikon D70 did not have the same issues.
Great advice thanks.
 

Juga

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Just to add you can set the shutter to a 2-10 second delay so that your finger pressing the shutter doesn't leave behind any residual vibration or invest in a remote shutter release.
 

wyogirl

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you can get an effective but cheap remote shutter release on amazon.... just sayin. Although using the timer works too... not sure how you did it.
 

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