Question for Nature Photographers #1

JWellman · Jan 5, 2011

I suppose I should be in the 'newbie' section but my greatest interest is right here in the nature forum. I hope you guys do not mind my questions. I really want to get better images and I've tried so many settings that my head is spinning. I apologize in advance if my questions seem juvenile, but guess what... I'm green as the summer grass.

My first question is, someone from this forum suggested I use manual mode to better understand my camera and to learn to adjust settings on my own. I've never used the "Auto" feature on my camera so that wasn't really an issue. I've been shooting in manual for several weeks now (instead of AV).

Despite the suggestion to shoot in manual, articles I've read from bird photographers state that most of them shoot in AV mode. What do you prefer and more importantly, as a frustrated beginner, what do you think I should be using? My shots are not anywhere close to being correct. I would really like to understand how to correct things before the next bald eagle falls in my lap. :grumpy:

Secondly, I remember reading an article and the author said he prefers to use AI Servo for birds. Can someone please explain what that is? I have mine set to AI Servo but I want confirmation that it is correct and also an explanation on what it does exactly and when it is necessary for me to use other options.

Lastly, I'm also confused on which metering is best. Some articles say Evaluative and others say spot metering. Not only am I confused on what these features do, I also do not know which is best to use and when it is appropriate to switch them.

I'm sorry to bombard with questions but I'm getting aggravated with bad shots and I know I can make them better. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jess

Markw · Jan 5, 2011

Despite the suggestion to shoot in manual, articles I've read from bird photographers state that most of them shoot in AV mode. What do you prefer and more importantly, as a frustrated beginner, what do you think I should be using? My shots are not anywhere close to being correct. I would really like to understand how to correct things before the next bald eagle falls in my lap.

For birding, I would most definately be using Aperture priority. This gives you control over not only the depth of field you have (blurred background), but also shutter speed in a sense. The larger your aperture (small f/number), the faster your shutter will be. This is important for birds that move around alot or birds in flight. Also, constant control over DOF is a definate plus for me. I shoot in Aperture Priority about 99% of the time.

Lastly, I'm also confused on which metering is best. Some articles say Evaluative and others say spot metering. Not only am I confused on what these features do, I also do not know which is best to use and when it is appropriate to switch them.

I think the more important rule for exposure in wildlife photography is the use not of which setting your camera is in (though that is important as well), but what metering you are using. If it is matrix, you are going to have an issue with underexposure most of the time. The camera will expose to keep the highlights (generally the extremely bright sky) from blowing out, and it will leave the less bright spots (namely, the animal) underexposed. I would use spot metering and make sure your selector is on the animal's face. This will correctly expose the face of the animal, the most important part. Matrix (evaluate) will expose for a full range of values throughout the entire frame. Spot will ensure that the point selected to focus on will be exposed properly.

Secondly, I remember reading an article and the author said he prefers to use AI Servo for birds. Can someone please explain what that is? I have mine set to AI Servo but I want confirmation that it is correct and also an explanation on what it does exactly and when it is necessary for me to use other options.

AI servo is what Canon uses for the autofocus setting in which the camera will continuously focus on the object in your selector. If the object moves closer to the camera, the camera will focus accordingly. This is good for nature because your subjects are alive and moving constantly. If you are using AI servo, I would also use whatever it is that Canon offers that will allow the focus selector to change position with the subject. Nikon calls it Dynamic something. This will allow your focus point, once locked on, to change spots if the subject happens to cross the frame into another focal spot.

Hope this helped. If you have more questions, just ask.
Mark

Overread · Jan 5, 2011

I'll add to the advice above:

1) On the AI servo setting I'm not sure what the canon equivalent of the Dynamic setting the Mark mentions (all I know is its a feature my 400D does not support). I will say that if you are using AI servo try to use only a single AF point. Typically most will start using the middle AF point (and on "rebel" series bodies the middle point is often the only cross point AF sensor in the camera - which means its faster and more accurate than the others - whilst higher level bodies have more sensors).
From there you can learn to use the outer AF points as and when needed by the composition (since only using the middle point can often leave you limited with your compositional choices - though you are always free to shoot and then crop in editing).

2) On the metering modes be carefull with spot metering since it will only meter the camera's settings on the single point you are selecting (typically the same as the AF point if you select a single AF point - or hte middle of the camera). This is tricky because if you select a pitch black spot on the animal the exposure is going to be very different to if the animal moves a little and suddenly you have a white feather in the single metering spot.

In the end one thing to remember is that many of these "best" settings are not universially the best, but the ones that give specific photographer the best settings for their style of shooting in the specific situation they are in.
Thus you might well read conflicting views on the "best" shooting mode even within specific interest areas (for example I know several bird photographers who use only manual focusing instead of any AF). So a part of this is going to be learning different modes and learning your own shooting style and how things work best for yourself.

Frequency · Jan 5, 2011

I have some doubts: When we are using tripod, we switch off VR/IS etc., since these applications have some circuitry functions which sets in minimum vibrations and this comes in between human made vibration and static stance offered by a tripod. So options follow the order, tripod> IS or VR> handheld

Is this rule applicable to AI Servo mode too? can we permanently set the mode to this whether we deal with static object or moving object? If it is applied for static object, what problems, it would bring in? Kindly let me know and also correct me if i was wrong in the first paragraph

Regards

Polygon · Jan 6, 2011

Frequency said:
Is this rule applicable to AI Servo mode too? can we permanently set the mode to this whether we deal with static object or moving object? If it is applied for static object, what problems, it would bring in? Kindly let me know and also correct me if i was wrong in the first paragraph

Disclaimer: I use Nikon, may vary for Canon

Static AF in the standard settings will block the shutter until the camera is certain that focus has been achieved (try it: defocus completely, aim for something and immediately press the shutter the whole way, you should get a sharp image of whatever youre aiming at). So you can be sure that something is in focus when an image is taken (given that AF works correctly). Also, once focus is aquired, it will be locked even if you move the camera, until you release the half-pressed shutter.

Dynamic AF on the other hand will continously focus and will allow you to take pictures no matter what (do the same test, the cam will start focus but takes a pic as soon as you fully press the shutter). For fast moving subjects this might be better because even if the subject is slightly out of focus, the DoF might still be big enough to bring it in focus (AF always uses wide open aperture to get maximum light in). It takes time for the cam to confirm focus and in fast moving subjects this might prevent you from taking any pictures at all if the shutter is blocked. However, with dynamic AF you have a larger chance to get an image with wrong focus.

So for still lifes or other stationary things it's probably wiser to use AF-S and for moving things AF-C. Both are a compromise and in the end it's up to the photog to decide. So make yourself acquainted with your AF system, it's very interesting.

If you don't want to bother, you can always use AF-A where the camera decides between the modes. But that is again a compromise that will work for some and not for others...

Frequency · Jan 6, 2011

Polygon; i almost got it; the rest i will get through further experimentation. Can I ask you another doubt?
Suppose we lock focus on an object and on recomposing if we completely remove the object from the frame, how will camera adjust to the situation?

Regards

Polygon · Jan 6, 2011

Frequency said:
Polygon; i almost got it; the rest i will get through further experimentation. Can I ask you another doubt?
Suppose we lock focus on an object and on recomposing if we completely remove the object from the frame, how will camera adjust to the situation?

Regards

AF-S doesn't lock focus to an object. It will acquire focus on whatever you aim it at and will then stop focussing, effectively locking focus on a certain distance if you want to look at it that way. So whatever you do, focus won't change anymore until you release and re-press the shutter. So if you move towards the object it will go out of focus.

What you probably mean is the AF-C 3D-mode that newer Nikons (and possibly Canons) have. This mode allows you to focus on something and when you recompose the image it will track the object that you initially focussed on across all the sensors to keep it in focus. Works best if the object is clearly distinctive from the background in terms of color. If you "recompose" the object out of the image it will just snap on to something else instead. But you don't really have control over that so it's better to release the shutter and select a new object to focus on.

I don't use the 3D-mode too often though. I prefer to select the appropriate AF-field and then use AF-S for stationary things. For moving things (as in "you don't move the cam to recompose but to keep the object in the viewfinder at all") "normal" AF-C (without 3D) seems to work better and according to the infos I found so far it's also meant that way.

Frequency · Jan 6, 2011

Thank you polygon; i don't think the focus is locked not at a distance, but the object in static mode; this i say while we move camera to recompose the distance from focused object also change, and in that case we always would get an OOF image, where as in recomposing that never happens; how this can be explained?

Regards

Polygon · Jan 6, 2011

Frequency said:
Thank you polygon; i don't think the focus is locked not at a distance, but the object in static mode; this i say while we move camera to recompose the distance from focused object also change, and in that case we always would get an OOF image, where as in recomposing that never happens; how this can be explained?

Well, I hope I understand you correct now. It actually does lock on a distance because on AF-S, no matter what you do, after it has focussed, you won't hear any focussing activity from the lens anymore. That means, the distance that is in focus can not possibly change.

When recomposing, especially on wide angle lenses, distant objects and with small apertures where the DoF is big, you probably don't notice this because the focal plane might change but not enough to move the object out of the DoF.

Try it out yourself, use AF-S and focus something close while the lense is wide open. While keeping the shutter half pressed, recompose and probably also move forward or backward a bit to strengthen the effect. The camera won't follow and when you press the shutter fully you will have your object unsharp.

As I said, this is for Nikon, different cameras might do this differently

.

Markw · Jan 7, 2011

This should help:

AF-S locks focus once at a specific distance.
AF-C Locks focus continuously on a specific subject, and changes distance with respect to the change in position of the subject. It effectively tracks the subject.

I dont know if any of this matters, though, because you do not shoot Nikon and I dont know if these have different terms for Canon. That is about as plain as it can be stated..

AF-C will constantly change focus based on what is inside the focus selector (should be a square in the viewfinder). So, when you recompose using AF-C, it will focus onthe new subject in the focus selector, unless it continues to track the subject across the field of view. Then, it should stay focused on the subject. If you move the subject out of frame, it will focus on whatever is in the focus selector.

AF-S will focus once on the subject distance, effectively focusing on a focus plane..a square parallel to the camera sensor at a given distance. Until you re-press the shutter button a second time, the camera will retain focus on that given focal plane no matter where the subject or camera moves. The focal plane will move not in relation to the subject's movements, but with respect to the camera's movement: If the camera moves 2m forward, so will the focal plane.

Hope this helped. If not, feel free to ask more questions.
Mark

JWellman · Jan 11, 2011

I'm so sorry that I'm just now getting back to the forum. I read everyone's posts by email but I didn't get the chance to leave a personal message. I've had a forum of my own for 11 years now and all hell broke lose this week. :grumpy:

I think I finally got things straightened out.

Thank you, thank you so much for all your help. I've spent the last week working on your suggestions and have printed everything written.