Question for you....weird

rgregory1965

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I went and picked up my Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 OS for my D7000 today.

I popped it on and set the cam to 6fps, shooting in manual

at 2.8 I can fire off 10 shots and they all look the exact same

at 8.0 I can fire off 10 shots and I get 10 photos at different WB

I have a friend with the Nikon VR1 and it does the same thing......on my D7000

is this normal????

this is my first lens of this caliber

BTW it was all done in Auto WB


EDIT: After checking the F2.8 photos are the same way....here are a few

My friend was obviously not going for focus here.....this was just a test

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What kind of lighting are you shooting in?
White balance is determined by the camera, not the lens.
If you are indoors you are probably seeing the results of a cycling light. You'll have everything from yellow to cyan and magenta to green in a series of photos over a couple of seconds.
 
What kind of lighting are you shooting in?
White balance is determined by the camera, not the lens.
If you are indoors you are probably seeing the results of a cycling light. You'll have everything from yellow to cyan and magenta to green in a series of photos over a couple of seconds.


Ok as long as that is semi normal....it was at his place of bussiness and there was a large glass storefront...

I was just curious because with my 70-300 I have never seen this.......is this something that happens more to the higher grade lens, or anything to do with the large 77mm glass.
 
Post some examples!
 
will do tonight when i get home....
 
Cycling lights was my first guess as well... but it seemed weird that it happened at f/8, not f/2.8. You would think that at 2.8, the shutter speed would be faster, and thus the color cycling more obvious. I'm curious to see these pics...
 
bump with photos
 
Cycling lights was my first guess as well... but it seemed weird that it happened at f/8, not f/2.8. You would think that at 2.8, the shutter speed would be faster, and thus the color cycling more obvious. I'm curious to see these pics...
I'm certainly no expert but is it possible the faster shutter speed @ f/2.8 was faster than the AC 60-hertz cycle? As I understand it, the chance of light cycling decreases once you are above 1/60 sec.
 
Cycling lights was my first guess as well... but it seemed weird that it happened at f/8, not f/2.8. You would think that at 2.8, the shutter speed would be faster, and thus the color cycling more obvious. I'm curious to see these pics...
I'm certainly no expert but is it possible the faster shutter speed @ f/2.8 was faster than the AC 60-hertz cycle? As I understand it, the chance of light cycling decreases once you are above 1/60 sec.

Looks like this is the case...

Some of these shots are at 1/250, which is faster than the 60Hz cycle of the lights. If these were shot under fluorescent light, this is most certainly the cause of the incorrect white balance.
 
Ok I guess then my next question is, I bought this lens to shoot indoor sports.....at a faster shutter speed

it looks like im going to be doing alot of post editing???......because of the lighting.

Thanks
 
Ok I guess then my next question is, I bought this lens to shoot indoor sports.....at a faster shutter speed

it looks like im going to be doing alot of post editing???......because of the lighting.

Thanks

Not all lights will cycle. Fluoros and some of the HID bulbs will, but regular incandescents will not. So, it ultimately depends on how the place is lit.
 
The shutter speed will have an effect to an extent, but you will still get cycling lights in both fast and slower. It's just a matter of when you fire.
Your shutter speed does not have any effect on how many shots you can fire in a second, just the duration of the time the shutter is opened. So you may get some more defined color differences with a faster shutter speed-the light can't change or can't change as much. With a slower shutter speed you may well see the change less because there is a blending of the cycle while the shutter is opened. Or at least this is my understanding from how someone explained it to me long ago.

The change in colors you have there is NOTHING compared to what you will see in a gym. It ranges from good to HORRIFIC cyan color in SOME gyms. Some are better than others. Usually the very well lit gyms I have better luck in. I suspect it is because the lights aren't sync'd together to cycle at the same time so one makes up for the other.

No matter what the shutter speed is you will always have a cycling light problem if you are working in lights that do it. You WILL catch the light in it's off cycle at one time or another. I find that with basketball I am getting about one in every 10 or 15 shots that is really off. There are about 3 variations I get in color in a game. It's a fact of life no matter what lens you use. Lights cycle and you can't time your shutter with them to make sure it never shows.
 
No matter what the shutter speed is you will always have a cycling light problem if you are working in lights that do it.

In the practice of shooting sports this is true, since you will always have a decently quick shutter, but I'd like to clarify a bit. If you set your shutter speed to match the cycle time of the light, then you are able to the average the entirety of exactly 1 cycle, or 2 cycles, etc... and all your shots will have the same white balance. (that doesn't imply you can trust AWB however) In the US, these shutter speeds would be 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, and so on, so totally not practical for sports. If you have cycling lights though and can afford a slow shutter, you CAN get around the unpredictability...
 
No matter what the shutter speed is you will always have a cycling light problem if you are working in lights that do it.

In the practice of shooting sports this is true, since you will always have a decently quick shutter, but I'd like to clarify a bit. If you set your shutter speed to match the cycle time of the light, then you are able to the average the entirety of exactly 1 cycle, or 2 cycles, etc... and all your shots will have the same white balance. (that doesn't imply you can trust AWB however) In the US, these shutter speeds would be 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, and so on, so totally not practical for sports. If you have cycling lights though and can afford a slow shutter, you CAN get around the unpredictability...

Totally right! Thank you!!! I automatically think in the context of what we are using and it didn't even cross my mind to clarify!
 

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