Question: which light meter is best?

[Tony S]

I use an L358, once you learn to use one your workflow goes seamlessly, quicker and it is almost something you don't even think about when doing it.

 

[Robin Usagani]

I gave my opinion of what I think of a light meter with DSLR. You are here to bash me. I just want to make my point that we have preview screen unlike film cameras. Gosh man... Go bash my studio photo since I didn't use a light meter.

An experienced professional who has BEEN USING A METER FOR A DECADE (or more!) or so knows: 1) HOW to use a light meter and 2) Probably learned how to set up his lights and get the RIGHT exposure--not by GUESSING, but by PROPERLY USING a light meter.

I don't think you can lay claim to either of those qualifications, 1 or 2.. In fact, you just shot your very first roll of film this month. And I saw your results. Lousy exposures, big-time. You proved my point nicely. By the time an experienced shooter, who learned with a meter and film, finally made it to the pro level, he did not need to rely on a meter. You on the other hand, muffed an entire assignment of your three kids with horrific exposures made on film. Horrible exposures!!!!

Too bad you did not have the knowledge of how to properly meter light. Messing up exposures on modern Black & White film is almost inexcusable...yet, you managed to do that. Amazing.

 

[Tee]

If someone doesn't want to use a light meter, more power to them but saying it's stupid is a poor choice of words. A light meter cuts out the guess work, assists in rendering proper exposures more quickly and is invaluable when exposing for a multi light set up with multiple ratios in a studio. I listened to the guy behind the camera counter who never shot in a studio tell me I didn't need one. I spent way too long walking back and forth fiddling. I would never sway anyone from getting one if they're into studio work. It's a tool. Simple as that. However, not using one doesn't make one cooler than the person who does and vice versa. I've been shooting a lot of film this summer. My light meter has helped my immensely.

The Sekonic L358 is a solid choice.

 

[Robin Usagani]

For one, the OP said he wanted to meter someone's face with natural light and made no mention of camera he was using ( dslr, older slr or newer slr). Obviously if he is using a camera with lightmeter, it would be a waste of money. Yes, handheld light meter is a good tool, but I hope most of you agree that it is not as VALUABLE it used to be. I didn't attempt strobing my first roll of film because I don't have a light meter.

 

[Buckster]

For one, the OP said he wanted to meter someone's face with natural light and made no mention of camera he was using ( dslr, older slr or newer slr).

Doesn't matter.

Obviously if he is using a camera with lightmeter, it would be a waste of money.

Quite wrong. A camera's meter is reflective only, while an incident meter is infinitely better to meter someone's face (or anything else you can get it near) for a proper exposure without guesswork, in any kind of lighting situation.

I personally use the Sekonic L-558R.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

An experienced professional who has BEEN USING A METER FOR A DECADE (or more!) or so knows: 1) HOW to use a light meter and 2) Probably learned how to set up his lights and get the RIGHT exposure--not by GUESSING, but by PROPERLY USING a light meter.

I don't think you can lay claim to either of those qualifications, 1 or 2.. In fact, you just shot your very first roll of film this month. And I saw your results. Lousy exposures, big-time. You proved my point nicely. By the time an experienced shooter, who learned with a meter and film, finally made it to the pro level, he did not need to rely on a meter. You on the other hand, muffed an entire assignment of your three kids with horrific exposures made on film. Horrible exposures!!!!

Too bad you did not have the knowledge of how to properly meter light. Messing up exposures on modern Black & White film is almost inexcusable...yet, you managed to do that. Amazing.

Us noobs are well versed in using them too, I was after the first few classes when they were introdcued. Mine is like my Amex, I don't leave home without it. Sure I can find exposure many other ways.....but why would I go through the extra time and effort

 

[Helen B]

I'd recommend the Sekonic L-758DR or the L-558R if they are within your budget. They are very versatile meters, with two incident modes (dome up and dome down) and a spot meter for both flash and continuous light. The older L-508 is almost as good, but it doesn't have a viewfinder readout in spot mode.

 

[Robin Usagani]

Some expert bakers use a scale to measure the amount of flours, some use cup measurement. The public only care how the bread look and taste.

 

[3bayjunkie]

I use canon eos 1 and eos 3 its below my avitar i think if you are using the mobile forum you cant see it.

Just because your camera has a light meter doesnt make an external light meter a waste of money. They are very useful. Quicker at getting a reading than trying to do it TTL... Anyway i got my answer. Thanks guys. I guess there is only one light meter worth buying.

I was thinking of buying a vintage light meter but not sure how well it would work.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

This thread delivers for sure

 

[usayit]

I use one on occasion.... there are many on the used market.

A simple compact Sekonic L308 works quite nicely and fits in a cell phone pouch. I also have a L408 which is a bit more advanced than the L308 but not quite up there in price as the latest/greatest. In particular, multi-meter and spot.

Reading this thread, it seems the topic is more along the lines as incidence metering but I also have a Voigtlander VC hotshoe meter which I use to examine exposures without having to bring the camera eye-level.


In school (shooting mostly film), I found this to be a wonderfully functional meter:

Its easy to use and has a "booster" for lower light measurements. Just checked it... Its still functional!. Be aware, many of these vintage meters are selenium based which do degrade over time. You should check for accuracy before purchase as they are not repairable (at least easily). Its a reflective one though... Manual is here:

http://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/sekonic_l-162.pdf


I'm more likely to recommend getting a modern electronic one...

 

[Rick58]

I use a Soligor Spot and a Luna-Pro SBC, but all my MF and LF are meterless.
I had a Sekonic 398 which was nice for incident or reflective. Unfortunatley it's lying somewhere along the trail in the Blue Mountains of Pa.