Questions about Tokina Lenses for Nikon

Lonnie1212

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I found a couple of Tokina lenses on eBay. Actually eBay has several of these lenses. I am questioning the compatibility and functionality of these lenses with a Nikon D610.

1. The first lens is an older Tokina RMC 400 mm f/5.6 for Nikon Ai. $125.00 in excellent condition. Manual Focus

2. The second lens is a Tokina AT-X AF 400mm f/5.6 Close Focus, mint condition, with box and accessories. $225.00.

Would use the lens in the daytime for small bird photography only. Currently using a cheap Nikon 70-300 lens. Just need something with a little more reach and of course reasonably clear photos. I can't spend $800.00 to a $1000.00 on a big lens now.

Thank you,

Lonnie
 
Photography is an expensive hobby, isn't it.? Remember you only get what you pay for. For wildlife, I shoot at up to 600mm.
 
What Jeff15 said. As I see it, you have 2 choices:

1. Save your money for a better lens. 600mm is about the bet choice. A Tamron 150-600 G2 can be had for about $1000.

2. Get closer by improving your stalking skills, or building a blind so you are hidden from the birds. I find a bird feeder lets you get fairly close to the songbirds before they fly away.
 
You can use AI, AI-S, AF, AF-D mount lenses on a D610 in Aperture-preferred and Manual exposure modes.

However, a 400mm lens won't get you much closer than your 300mm lens. You won't see much difference in your viewfinder. You probably want at least a 500-600mm lens.
 
Of all the third-party lens manufacturers, I think Tokina is right at the top, but these being manual focus, I'm surprised that you want them for wildlife.

If your 300mm is producing good images, how do they look when enlarged?
 
Of all the third-party lens manufacturers, I think Tokina is right at the top, but these being manual focus, I'm surprised that you want them for wildlife.

If your 300mm is producing good images, how do they look when enlarged?

The 300 mm images are okay for everything but small birds. The details in the feathers cannot be seen. With any birds smaller that a Mallard duck there are problems photographing. You are right! I decided today that manual focus will not work for wildlife photography, especially for photographing birds in flight.
 
What Jeff15 said. As I see it, you have 2 choices:

1. Save your money for a better lens. 600mm is about the bet choice. A Tamron 150-600 G2 can be had for about $1000.

2. Get closer by improving your stalking skills, or building a blind so you are hidden from the birds. I find a bird feeder lets you get fairly close to the songbirds before they fly away.


I have a "regular" bird feeder and a suet basket and this is where I've gotten the vast majority of my bird shots. Lots of action without having to leave the yard. As soon as it warms up - I'm outside of Albany and we actually had snow flurries yesterday - the hummingbird feeder will go up, too.

I don't know much about Tokina but the 400mm AF lens sounds inexpensive for that much reach. The f/5.6 max aperture will require brighter light for the same shutter speed as a faster lens (at the same ISO) but 400mm is 400mm. Plus you may realize that you really like this aspect of photography and can upgrade at some point. Or discover that you're not as excited about it as you thought. In that case you didn't spend a lot of money to find out.
 
Until you can afford a 150-600, you would be better off to use you 70-300 and save your money.
 
Your equipment list includes an 80-400. Is this the older D version? I'm curious why you're looking for at 400mm f5.6 prime? Is it focusing speed?
 
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I've used some Tokina lenses on my DX. I had a 12-(I forget) wide angle zoom that was built like a tank was pretty sharp. The main draw back with it was it had a lot of chromatic abortion that took time in PP to correct. I also have a 17mm I use FF and again, built like a tank and I haven't noticed too much CA.
 

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