Rowing Photography

[wishiwasasculler]

Hi! I’m currently a rower/beginner photography student in high school. I love taking the action pictures and showing them off on my to my teammates, but I’m still just starting out and don’t know the best settings. Unfortunately, I don’t have enough money to get a camera upgrade yet, and I’m currently working with a Nikon D5000. I’m also working with a 55-200mm lens. I’ve researched camera types, but again, a new camera is basically out of the picture. What settings should I use to take the best quality photos?

The one attached was taken with the basic camera settings.

 

[smoke665]

No image posted?

 

[wishiwasasculler]

No image posted?

of course there wasn’t- that’s my bad- there should be one now

 

[smoke665]

It appears there's no EXIF information, so what were your settings.

The major issue I see with composition is you've cut off left hand side.

 

[Digger...]

Hi! I’m currently a rower/beginner photography student in high school. I love taking the action pictures and showing them off on my to my teammates, but I’m still just starting out and don’t know the best settings. Unfortunately, I don’t have enough money to get a camera upgrade yet, and I’m currently working with a Nikon D5000. I’m also working with a 55-200mm lens. I’ve researched camera types, but again, a new camera is basically out of the picture. What settings should I use to take the best quality photos?

The one attached was taken with the basic camera settings.View attachment 274118

G'day there, I've only got a D5600 the entry levels do the job but you'll have to work harder to get your quality shots. It keeps you on your toes but it's also a pain in the butt too!

Your 1st step is to learn this chart,

Ps. I kayak also, but just fishing and exploring kayaking...

 

[wishiwasasculler]

It appears there's no EXIF information, so what were your settings.

The major issue I see with composition is you've cut off left hand side.

basically everything was on auto, the wheel was put on the “action shot” setting- ISO was on auto, focus mode was AF-A, and it had zero contrast. that’s all i can really tell from the camera (again, i’m new to this sorry!). i know for sports (esp ones like rowing) it should be low ISO and a high shutter speed… hoping to borrow a better quality camera from the school for the next regatta

 

[Rickbb]

Take a class and learn to shoot all manual. That auto setting is great, IF you understand what it's doing.

That shot looks like the AF either didn't or focused on something other than the boats. AF on water is a known problem child. Learn to use the focus and hold feature or focus manual.

Action shots need high shutter speeds, auto ISO may or may not give you that, again, learn to set it manually. Higher ISO will also give you greater depth of field. Something else to learn about, shooting in manual will make all of that make sense to you.

Auto is like the wizard behind the curtain, it makes things work, but you get the best results from knowing what the levers that the wizard pulls on actually do.

 

[smoke665]

I'm going to agree and disagree with the @Rickbb 's post above. I've been shooting since the 60's we were all manual then, shot sports and news for a newspaper, so I have a pretty good grasp on how to shoot manual. I also believe that it's important to learn to use all the tools in your toolbox, and not restrict yourself to only manual it's not always the best way.

First off you need to download the manual for your camera, you can find it here at Nikon D5000 | DSLR Cameras | Nikon USA click on the link for product manual. The D5000 isn't a bad camera but you need to read the manual and learn how to operate it. One of the first things you need to do is learn about Exposure Modes....take it off Auto. The first one to learn about is Aperture Priority, it lets you set a fixed aperture, and the camera adjusts the shutter and ISO, the second mode you need to learn is Shutter Priority, it lets you set a fixed shutter speed and the camera adjusts for aperture and ISO, the third mode you need to learn is Program Mode, it's like full auto, but the minute you touch the aperture or shutter it switches to the other priority. The fourth mode to learn is Manual, you control all the settings, I don't recommend starting there because it's the most difficult for a beginner, but you need to learn. Forget about all the other little cutsey modes the model offers.

The next thing to study up on in the manual is Exposure Compensation (they only work in Program,Aperture Priority, and Shutter Priority). EC adjusts your exposure in 1/3rd or 1/2 stops from -5 to +5. Learn where the dial is, how it works, memorize the feel.

In action shots, there's a lot going on, and frankly you don't have time to fiddle around with settings. I do agree with the above about needing faster shutter speeds, so start out on Shutter Priority, set your speed up to 250 or so unless it's really fast or your using a flash and need a slower sync speed. The camera will adjust your aperture and ISO so you'll get a correctly exposed image. If it doesn't hit that EC dial to add or subtract from the exposure, if you know where it is without looking, you can adjust on the fly and never let the camera leave your eye. Trust me all those years I shot manual I'd of killed for Aperture or Shutter Priority modes.

As you gain confidence, start looking at the settings your camera is picking, and start transferring some of that knowledge over to manual settings. Think of your exposures like a Triangle with aperture on one point, shutter on another and ISO on the third. To keep your exposure equal everytime you change one point all the other points have to change and equal amount.

Come back after you've studied up on the manual and experimented with the camera. You'll find a lot of people here that will help you, but just like school, you have to read the lesson first.

 

[Don Fischer]

I'm going to agree and disagree with the @Rickbb 's post above. I've been shooting since the 60's we were all manual then, shot sports and news for a newspaper, so I have a pretty good grasp on how to shoot manual. I also believe that it's important to learn to use all the tools in your toolbox, and not restrict yourself to only manual it's not always the best way.

First off you need to download the manual for your camera, you can find it here at Nikon D5000 | DSLR Cameras | Nikon USA click on the link for product manual. The D5000 isn't a bad camera but you need to read the manual and learn how to operate it. One of the first things you need to do is learn about Exposure Modes....take it off Auto. The first one to learn about is Aperture Priority, it lets you set a fixed aperture, and the camera adjusts the shutter and ISO, the second mode you need to learn is Shutter Priority, it lets you set a fixed shutter speed and the camera adjusts for aperture and ISO, the third mode you need to learn is Program Mode, it's like full auto, but the minute you touch the aperture or shutter it switches to the other priority. The fourth mode to learn is Manual, you control all the settings, I don't recommend starting there because it's the most difficult for a beginner, but you need to learn. Forget about all the other little cutsey modes the model offers.

The next thing to study up on in the manual is Exposure Compensation (they only work in Program,Aperture Priority, and Shutter Priority). EC adjusts your exposure in 1/3rd or 1/2 stops from -5 to +5. Learn where the dial is, how it works, memorize the feel.

In action shots, there's a lot going on, and frankly you don't have time to fiddle around with settings. I do agree with the above about needing faster shutter speeds, so start out on Shutter Priority, set your speed up to 250 or so unless it's really fast or your using a flash and need a slower sync speed. The camera will adjust your aperture and ISO so you'll get a correctly exposed image. If it doesn't hit that EC dial to add or subtract from the exposure, if you know where it is without looking, you can adjust on the fly and never let the camera leave your eye. Trust me all those years I shot manual I'd of killed for Aperture or Shutter Priority modes.

As you gain confidence, start looking at the settings your camera is picking, and start transferring some of that knowledge over to manual settings. Think of your exposures like a Triangle with aperture on one point, shutter on another and ISO on the third. To keep your exposure equal everytime you change one point all the other points have to change and equal amount.

Come back after you've studied up on the manual and experimented with the camera. You'll find a lot of people here that will help you, but just like school, you have to read the lesson first.

Pretty typical of motion photo I get when I do them. Notice the eyes on the dog? Out of focus. Turned up the iso a lot to hopefully be able to shoot a smaller shutter opening at a faster speed. Then ya need to hit it just right it seems! Looking at a guys flying bird photo's he told me to up the iso and shutter opening and then take a bunch of photo's of the same subject. Looking to get one in better focus. Takes a lot of practice. But I would think with shooting row boats, you could simply follow the boat with a camera and click on it. That should blur the background and focus on the subject. Probably need a fairly small shutter opening to get reasonable dept. of field though. Think you'll find adjusting shutter opening and iso will help you out. I think it's one of those things that takes lots of practice.

 

[smoke665]

@Don Fischer I think your missing a few things.

First DOF is a function of aperture AND distance to subject. For example I shoot a portrait At 200m from a minimum focal distance of 48" @ f/2.8 my DOF will only be roughly 5/32" barely enough to get the tip of the nose, but if I shoot from 20 feet away, my DOF is 4" enough to get most of the facial fearures and blur the background. So just raising aperture without other considerations isn't appropriate.

Second raising ISO can be an excellent way to increase either shutter or stop down aperture. The mistake most make here is underexpoxing which dramatically increases noise. Again your choice has to be made considering all the factors. This is why i recommended a beginner shoot in one of the Priority Modes starting out. The camera will adjust accordingly to either (aperture/shutter depending on mode setting) and ISO.

Your pannig comment is something beginners need to learn, much like wing shooters have to learn to lead a bird. Being able to move the camera with the subject will keep the subject in focus at a slower shutter speed,

Again the single most important advice I give to any beginner with a new camera (read the manual), know how to use the tools you're working with, it takes less time then a lot of blind practice.