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Smoke, some of the background companies provide floor mats that look like wood floor, tile and are somewhat cushioned. You can also attach tile, laminate flooring to 4x8 sheets of plywood that can be stored against a wall. I use the shiny board because for full length I want shadows. Why not embrace the concrete. I have a painted backdrop that looks like a distressed dark gray concrete wall. I don't have to go out to get that edgy look for full length with the concrete floor. Can use hard light, deep shadows and in the garage, the fog machine.
 
@mrca I have accumulated all of these, plus carpet/wood/vinyl and have used the bare concrete on occasion. My backdrops are 10×20 giving me plenty to work with there. However none of these help the old bones when I have to get down on that cold hard concrete.
 
If you are getting down on the concrete to get a low angle on subject or one that is reclining, why not raise the subject. Six large 5 or 8 gallon buckets from home depot, and one of your plywood sheets allows you to sit on your stool and photo a reclining subject now 18" off the floor. No lying on the floor to shoot. Handy for pets as well. For kneeling, hard knee pads make a huge difference.
 
I have a carpet covered platform for pets. Hadn't thought about the buckets and a sheet of plywood. That could work!
 
What are you using for your platform to attach your carpet or wood? I find plywood heavy and cumbersome.
 
I'm a big fan of torsion box construction. I use it for free standing panels and shelves/platforms I use 1/8" masonite skin on both sides and a 1x2 pine frame with a 2x2 grid inside. When I need more load bearing I either increase the skin thickness or decrease the grid size. They're lightweight and extremely strong.
 
Are they strong enough for subjects to stand on and how far apart do you space the 2x2's? and I expect one direction is cut and fastened. Do you use nails or screws and do you have to pre drill? Is one foot spacing enough?
 
I use standard dimensional 1x2x3/4" pine for the core. It depends on the use as to the grid size. For wall panels 2x2 is more than sufficient. For the pet table I dropped them to 12x12, but frankly that could be overkill. I used to be able to calculate all that stuff in another life, but I'm to lazy now. LOL

For simplicity sake when I build the grid I set up a dado blade on my table saw set to 3/4" x 3/4" deep (a 1x2 is actually 3/4"x1 1/2") with a registration stop on the fence. This creates half lap joints that are glued and nailed (brads). Once the grid dries put glue on the edges and apply the skin. You can use brads but 1/4" crown staples hold better in masonite. Here's an article that might help How To Build A Torsion Box Bookcase Seat - Concord Carpenter

As to load, it depends. Can you stand on a standard hollow core door supported only at the ends? Maybe? Put support under the ends and the middle and you could for sure. A hollow core door is a torsion box, but instead of a wood grid they use cardboard (and not much of that).
 

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