Mumfandc
TPF Noob!
I've been doing lith prints more often now in the darkroom. Kinda tricky but I think I've gotten the hang of it.
It's almost impossible to get two prints to look alike. The paper is HEAVILY over-exposed then underdeveloped in diluted lith developer. A shorter exposure increases contrast, and vice-versa. Shadows are very dark and grainy, while highlights are subtle and soft...you can control the amount of these two effects separately (highlights depend on how long you expose, shadows depend on how long you develop).
I used Forte Polywarmtone paper, which when lith printed results in pink and brownish colors. Though early in the development it is a lavenderish color. The developer goes dead usually after the fourth 8x10 print...but right before that is when the solution makes the best prints.
This picture was taken across the Vespa shop downtown New York City.
Hasselblad 500cm w/80mm f2.0 lens
Fuji Neopan Acros 100 film
It's almost impossible to get two prints to look alike. The paper is HEAVILY over-exposed then underdeveloped in diluted lith developer. A shorter exposure increases contrast, and vice-versa. Shadows are very dark and grainy, while highlights are subtle and soft...you can control the amount of these two effects separately (highlights depend on how long you expose, shadows depend on how long you develop).
I used Forte Polywarmtone paper, which when lith printed results in pink and brownish colors. Though early in the development it is a lavenderish color. The developer goes dead usually after the fourth 8x10 print...but right before that is when the solution makes the best prints.
This picture was taken across the Vespa shop downtown New York City.
Hasselblad 500cm w/80mm f2.0 lens
Fuji Neopan Acros 100 film
![[No title]](/data/xfmg/thumbnail/31/31014-6b1a572624824b852f5adaf3594767af.jpg?1619734569)
