Solid tripod & ball head for D800

[Wawe]

Hi all,

I know there’s a ton of threads similar to this one but since every photographer’s needs are a bit different and I don’t quite yet trust my ability to fully apply the available information, I decided to post this question with detailed description of my own requirements.

So, straight to the point: I’m going to need a sturdy set of tripod legs, a quality ball head and possibly an L-bracket to get the most out of the stunning IQ of the D800 I’m planning to buy in the near future. I have almost no experience in buying tripods (except for the purchase of a Manfrotto 7322YB M-Y aluminum tripod with ball head set about a year and a half ago, see Manfrotto 7322YB M-Y Aluminum Tripod with Ball Head 7322YB-BB for details), so I would appreciate well-founded suggestions.

Firstly, I’ll tell a little more about my shooting so that you can get a picture of what I will use the tripod for. I’m an enthusiast photographer, have had a DSLR for a couple of years now and am mainly interested in shooting landscapes (especially seascapes), macro and people. Thus, I would probably need a quality panorama ability, as good a resistance to salt corrosion as I can get, option to use focusing rails and ability to shoot in portrait position. At least currently I don’t do nearly anything concerning wildlife or sports.

Second, I’ve understood that the weight of the camera with lens equipped is one of the key things to consider when it comes to the legs, so here’s something about my gear. My heaviest lens is the Nikon AF-S Zoom Nikkor 14-24mm f/2.8G ED (2.13 lb or 969 g), which, combined with the D800 (1.98 lb or 900 g), would in total be 4.11 lb or 1869g. However, I could see myself buying at least the third lens to complete my Nikon’s holy trinity (I already have the AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED) and the AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II (3.39 lb or 1540 g) would make my setup around 30% heavier than it would be with my currently heaviest lens.

As for where I am now with the process, I have only just began to compare legs and ball heads, not even fully understanding all their features. However, partly being influenced by Thom Hogan’s ideas about buying the right tripod the first time (see Tripods and Ball Heads by Thom Hogan), I’m only interested in a quality setup that would preferably last longer than any other piece of photography equipment I have. That’s also why I’m willing to invest significantly in the tripod, in terms of both time spent doing the research and also money.

Thanks in advance for all the suggestions and help!

 

[CameraClicker]

I have an aluminum tripod from 40 years ago, which is still in good condition. About 10 years ago I got another aluminum tripod about the same size, that the camera store was trying to get rid of. Both cost $50. The newer one has a panning head, but not a ball head, both have leavers. I also have a nice carbon fibre tripod, and an aluminum travel tripod, both having ball heads. The carbon fibre has a Manfrotto panning ball head.

Rather than suggesting a brand, I'll make a few observations based on my experience and what I have read on other sites.

Carbon fibre tends to settle vibration faster than aluminum, is lighter, and nicer to hold during freezing weather. It also usually costs more.

Sea water is corrosive. Harken make sailboat hardware out of exotic plastics because sun and salt water are hard on materials. Aluminum and stainless are damaged by salt water. Tripods used in that environment will not last long unless there is a way to completely rinse them with fresh water and dry them. Water has a way of getting into closed tubes and rinsing is difficult.

Wind causes vibration, and bigger lenses catch more wind. In very calm places I have put a full frame body and 100-400 zoom on a tripod designed to hold 3 lbs. If the camera is balanced, it works fine. Add wind, and it does not work at all. If you are going to be spending time on the coast, you are going to be dealing with wind, probably lots of wind. That may require a tripod that can hold three or four times the weight of your camera, just for the stability.

As tripods support more, they weigh more. Sometimes that becomes a deterrent. “Anything more than 500 yards from the car just isn’t photogenic.” -Edward Weston

Often, I keep a tripod in the car, just in case. Vibration causes the screws to become loose, so regular checks are required, or nail polish.

How long a tripod lasts depends on how you care for and use it.

 

[Big Mike]

Welcome to the forum.

It sounds like you already have a good understanding of what you want/need....and you're in a good mindset of wanting to buy the right one, rather than something cheaper. Beyond that, a lot of it is personal preference and experience that you only get after buying the using the gear for a while.

I have discovered that tripods and heads are one of those things that go way beyond what most photographers realize. Most of us might have tripod setups that cost $100-$400....but there is a whole world of high end tripods where it's not out of the ordinary to spend more than $900 on legs, $500 on a head etc. Then you add things like levelling base, L-bracket, multiple QR plates etc.


Here are some link to sites that visit when I want to window shop stuff that I want but can't afford;
Kirk Enterprises : Quality Photographic Equipment for Outdoor & Nature Photography
http://www.markinsamerica.com
Really Right Stuff
Acratech :Ballheads

 

[spacefuzz]

I can say with my D800 I shoot in a LOT of extreme environments, from immersed in salt water to volcanoes to -30 F. I have been using a Gitzo Ocean Traveler the last 2 years and its been amazing. Light weight and entirely corrosion resistant...I never even clean the thing. Only tripod I have not been able to destroy due to corrosion or use. I have a mid sized Gitzo ball head on it (the one it originally came with was too small), and thats held the D800 with no issues.

 

[shadowlands]

My Manfrotto stuff is OLD, but will work 'till my death.
Check my signature... can't go wrong...

 

[Wawe]

Sea water is corrosive. Harken make sailboat hardware out of exotic plastics because sun and salt water are hard on materials. Aluminum and stainless are damaged by salt water. Tripods used in that environment will not last long unless there is a way to completely rinse them with fresh water and dry them. Water has a way of getting into closed tubes and rinsing is difficult.

--

How long a tripod lasts depends on how you care for and use it.

Unless you get one that's "built for professional performance, maintenance-free durability and resistance against seawater" (see OCEAN SYSTEMATIC Series 3 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GT3542LOS - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo). However, I'm not sure whether to believe that a product like that exists.

I personally would be glad to pay somewhat significantly extra to get a tripod that is completely maintenance-free. That is, the time I spend maintaining my tripod is definitely a cost for me, too, so if I could avoid maintenance completely (which I doubt), I would definitely consider the Ocean series although it seems ridiculously expensive.

 

[Wawe]

Welcome to the forum.

It sounds like you already have a good understanding of what you want/need....and you're in a good mindset of wanting to buy the right one, rather than something cheaper. Beyond that, a lot of it is personal preference and experience that you only get after buying the using the gear for a while.

I have discovered that tripods and heads are one of those things that go way beyond what most photographers realize. Most of us might have tripod setups that cost $100-$400....but there is a whole world of high end tripods where it's not out of the ordinary to spend more than $900 on legs, $500 on a head etc. Then you add things like levelling base, L-bracket, multiple QR plates etc.


Here are some link to sites that visit when I want to window shop stuff that I want but can't afford;
Kirk Enterprises : Quality Photographic Equipment for Outdoor & Nature Photography
http://www.markinsamerica.com
Really Right Stuff
Acratech :Ballheads

In general about the tripod system building, could somebody briefly explain how the additional equipment builds on the legs? Like L-brackets, QR plates, levelling bases and stuff, how do I decide what to get and whether they are compatible with each other?

For example, as I said I'm interested in a tripod that I could use for shooting panoramas. Does this require some special gear? I understood that there are special panorama sets but then some photographers seem to be able to get very good results without them. Or portraits in vertical position, does the L-bracket do the job?

 

[Wawe]

I can say with my D800 I shoot in a LOT of extreme environments, from immersed in salt water to volcanoes to -30 F. I have been using a Gitzo Ocean Traveler the last 2 years and its been amazing. Light weight and entirely corrosion resistant...I never even clean the thing. Only tripod I have not been able to destroy due to corrosion or use. I have a mid sized Gitzo ball head on it (the one it originally came with was too small), and thats held the D800 with no issues.

That's very interesting to hear, I have found very few user reviews of the Gitzo ocean series. Can you recommend any good that you read before making the purchase?

Also, do you think that the two years you have owned the product is long enough to say that it can handle the sea water? I'm a little worried that the Ocean series will suffer from corrosion too, just a little slower than other models. So did your other tripods get destroyed in months or so, or how did you see the damage due to corrosion in practice?

 

[Big Mike]

Welcome to the forum.

It sounds like you already have a good understanding of what you want/need....and you're in a good mindset of wanting to buy the right one, rather than something cheaper. Beyond that, a lot of it is personal preference and experience that you only get after buying the using the gear for a while.

I have discovered that tripods and heads are one of those things that go way beyond what most photographers realize. Most of us might have tripod setups that cost $100-$400....but there is a whole world of high end tripods where it's not out of the ordinary to spend more than $900 on legs, $500 on a head etc. Then you add things like levelling base, L-bracket, multiple QR plates etc.


Here are some link to sites that visit when I want to window shop stuff that I want but can't afford;
Kirk Enterprises : Quality Photographic Equipment for Outdoor & Nature Photography
http://www.markinsamerica.com
Really Right Stuff
Acratech :Ballheads

In general about the tripod system building, could somebody briefly explain how the additional equipment builds on the legs? Like L-brackets, QR plates, levelling bases and stuff, how do I decide what to get and whether they are compatible with each other?

For example, as I said I'm interested in a tripod that I could use for shooting panoramas. Does this require some special gear? I understood that there are special panorama sets but then some photographers seem to be able to get very good results without them. Or portraits in vertical position, does the L-bracket do the job?

When you see the gear, it's usually pretty straight forward. The legs will have a base, many tripods will come with a centre column that can be raised, but this takes away from the stability of the system and should be avoided for best results. So you will want to look for legs that are tall enough for you to comfortably use, without needing a centre column. Of course, if you need to travel or hike with your tripod, a shorter one, with a column may be an option to consider.

On top of the tripod base, you can attach your tripod head. Or, if you have a levelling base, you would attach it instead. The tripod head goes on top of the levelling base. The levelling base is just a partial ball head. The idea is that you set up your tripod close to level, but you use the levelling base to get the head precisely level. Of course, you could use the head to get the camera level, but if you want to rotate the head for multi-exposure pano stitching, then you'll want the head to be level.

And if shooting multiple shots for stitching is something that you want to be serious about, then you may want a head that has a separate rotational control. Some even have a rotation scale and/or indents so you can feel how far you've rotated it.

Another thing to consider, is the point around which the camera is rotated. The problem is that if you rotate the camera around a point that is too far away from the entrance pupil, the shots may end up with a different perspective, especially of things that are very close to the camera. The solution is a tripod head or adjustment device that allows you to slide the mounting so that the axis of rotation is in the right spot. Most will call it the nodal point, but the best point would be the entrance pupil. LINK
That being said, if you're not shooting panos with things that are very close to the camera, I really don't think this is an issue worth fussing about. As long as the camera is 'close enough' to the axis of rotation, you'll be OK.

OK, so we've got the tripod, maybe a levelling base and the head. Obviously there are many, many types and brands of head to choose from. It would take weeks to discuss them all so we can skip it for now.

Attaching the camera to the head can be as simple as having a 1/4" stud directly on the head. This isn't preferable though, so what you'll usually want is a quick release (QR) plate and clamp system. Most heads will already come with some sort of QR system. The plate attaches to the camera (or large lens) and stays there, allowing you to quickly attach and remove the camera. They are not necessarily universal. For example, Manfrotto has their own QR plate styles. They work well enough but (I think) they are exclusive to Manfrotto. Most other companies uses the Arca-Swiss design, which means that most other plates are cross compatible, but there can still be slight differences from one brand to another.

I like having at least two plates, but I could use more. I often shoot with multiple cameras, plus my 70-200 has a tripod mount ring/foot. When out on a shoot, it's nice to be able to switch cameras or lenses without having to switch plates.

The clamping system on the head can have a few different styles. The quick one is usually a spring mounted rotating wedge..works well enough. Another style is a simple 'set screw' that clamps the plate to the head. This takes a couple seconds more, but is generally more secure.

If you have a tripod head that doesn't have it's own QR clamp, you can buy a separate clamp that screws onto the head. I'd much prefer a head that has a built-in clamp.

An L-bracket is, well, a bracket shaped like an L. It attaches to the camera and basically gives you a QR plate connection on both the bottom and side of the camera. This is useful when you want to shoot in a vertical orientation. Of course, just about any tripod head will allow you to rotate the camera to vertical, but that normally puts the camera outside the centre of gravity of the tripod, making a much less stable system. Plus, it puts the camera further away from the axis of rotation, which you don't want if you are shooting multi-shot panos. And on that topic, it's usually recommended that you shoot vertically when shooting those panos, because there is less distortion on the long edges of the frame, which makes for easier/better stitching.

So the L-bracket lets you keep the camera right over the centre of the tripod in either orientation. Again, the difference between using one and not using one, may be insignificant for many types of shooting....but all the little things you do, can add up to better images in the end.

With L-brackets, there are universal models that would likely require you to also have an anti-rotation plate that is specific to your camera. This is a little plate that that fits snug to the contour of your camera, so that it can't rotate on the L-bracket. You can get L-brackets that are camera specific that should negate the need for the anti-rotation plate. There are also adjustable L-brackets that are more universal (I think Manfrotto makes one). They look cool but they don't look as secure as a solid piece.

In some cases, you would attach the QR plates to the L-bracket, but I think a better system is to have a bracket that has the plate design (arca swiss) built into the bracket, so that the bracket itself is a QR plate.

 

[spacefuzz]

I can say with my D800 I shoot in a LOT of extreme environments, from immersed in salt water to volcanoes to -30 F. I have been using a Gitzo Ocean Traveler the last 2 years and its been amazing. Light weight and entirely corrosion resistant...I never even clean the thing. Only tripod I have not been able to destroy due to corrosion or use. I have a mid sized Gitzo ball head on it (the one it originally came with was too small), and thats held the D800 with no issues.

That's very interesting to hear, I have found very few user reviews of the Gitzo ocean series. Can you recommend any good that you read before making the purchase?

Also, do you think that the two years you have owned the product is long enough to say that it can handle the sea water? I'm a little worried that the Ocean series will suffer from corrosion too, just a little slower than other models. So did your other tripods get destroyed in months or so, or how did you see the damage due to corrosion in practice?

Reviews for the Ocean Traveler are scarce because its one of the more expensive tripods you can buy. Perhaps I should write one.......

No corrosion at all on the tripod, and I live 20 min from the beach and shoot there up to 4x per week if the weather is looking stormy. The o-rings on the legs also do a good job of keeping sand out of the joints. My previous tripods were Vanguards and they only lasted 3-6 months before comletely seizing up and becoming non-functional. That all being said, if you are absolutely anal about keeping your gear clean (I'm not) and never let your tripod sit in the car (I do) and wash it off IMMEDIATLY after every use in the ocean youd likely do fine with a cheaper standard tripod. Just depends on your style, I am hard on my gear. I'm sure Gitzo intented me to also use it as a trecking pole right?

 

[Wawe]

Welcome to the forum.

It sounds like you already have a good understanding of what you want/need....and you're in a good mindset of wanting to buy the right one, rather than something cheaper. Beyond that, a lot of it is personal preference and experience that you only get after buying the using the gear for a while.

I have discovered that tripods and heads are one of those things that go way beyond what most photographers realize. Most of us might have tripod setups that cost $100-$400....but there is a whole world of high end tripods where it's not out of the ordinary to spend more than $900 on legs, $500 on a head etc. Then you add things like levelling base, L-bracket, multiple QR plates etc.


Here are some link to sites that visit when I want to window shop stuff that I want but can't afford;
Kirk Enterprises : Quality Photographic Equipment for Outdoor & Nature Photography
http://www.markinsamerica.com
Really Right Stuff
Acratech :Ballheads

In general about the tripod system building, could somebody briefly explain how the additional equipment builds on the legs? Like L-brackets, QR plates, levelling bases and stuff, how do I decide what to get and whether they are compatible with each other?

For example, as I said I'm interested in a tripod that I could use for shooting panoramas. Does this require some special gear? I understood that there are special panorama sets but then some photographers seem to be able to get very good results without them. Or portraits in vertical position, does the L-bracket do the job?

When you see the gear, it's usually pretty straight forward. The legs will have a base, many tripods will come with a centre column that can be raised, but this takes away from the stability of the system and should be avoided for best results. So you will want to look for legs that are tall enough for you to comfortably use, without needing a centre column. Of course, if you need to travel or hike with your tripod, a shorter one, with a column may be an option to consider.

On top of the tripod base, you can attach your tripod head. Or, if you have a levelling base, you would attach it instead. The tripod head goes on top of the levelling base. The levelling base is just a partial ball head. The idea is that you set up your tripod close to level, but you use the levelling base to get the head precisely level. Of course, you could use the head to get the camera level, but if you want to rotate the head for multi-exposure pano stitching, then you'll want the head to be level.

And if shooting multiple shots for stitching is something that you want to be serious about, then you may want a head that has a separate rotational control. Some even have a rotation scale and/or indents so you can feel how far you've rotated it.

Another thing to consider, is the point around which the camera is rotated. The problem is that if you rotate the camera around a point that is too far away from the entrance pupil, the shots may end up with a different perspective, especially of things that are very close to the camera. The solution is a tripod head or adjustment device that allows you to slide the mounting so that the axis of rotation is in the right spot. Most will call it the nodal point, but the best point would be the entrance pupil. LINK
That being said, if you're not shooting panos with things that are very close to the camera, I really don't think this is an issue worth fussing about. As long as the camera is 'close enough' to the axis of rotation, you'll be OK.

OK, so we've got the tripod, maybe a levelling base and the head. Obviously there are many, many types and brands of head to choose from. It would take weeks to discuss them all so we can skip it for now.

Attaching the camera to the head can be as simple as having a 1/4" stud directly on the head. This isn't preferable though, so what you'll usually want is a quick release (QR) plate and clamp system. Most heads will already come with some sort of QR system. The plate attaches to the camera (or large lens) and stays there, allowing you to quickly attach and remove the camera. They are not necessarily universal. For example, Manfrotto has their own QR plate styles. They work well enough but (I think) they are exclusive to Manfrotto. Most other companies uses the Arca-Swiss design, which means that most other plates are cross compatible, but there can still be slight differences from one brand to another.

I like having at least two plates, but I could use more. I often shoot with multiple cameras, plus my 70-200 has a tripod mount ring/foot. When out on a shoot, it's nice to be able to switch cameras or lenses without having to switch plates.

The clamping system on the head can have a few different styles. The quick one is usually a spring mounted rotating wedge..works well enough. Another style is a simple 'set screw' that clamps the plate to the head. This takes a couple seconds more, but is generally more secure.

If you have a tripod head that doesn't have it's own QR clamp, you can buy a separate clamp that screws onto the head. I'd much prefer a head that has a built-in clamp.

An L-bracket is, well, a bracket shaped like an L. It attaches to the camera and basically gives you a QR plate connection on both the bottom and side of the camera. This is useful when you want to shoot in a vertical orientation. Of course, just about any tripod head will allow you to rotate the camera to vertical, but that normally puts the camera outside the centre of gravity of the tripod, making a much less stable system. Plus, it puts the camera further away from the axis of rotation, which you don't want if you are shooting multi-shot panos. And on that topic, it's usually recommended that you shoot vertically when shooting those panos, because there is less distortion on the long edges of the frame, which makes for easier/better stitching.

So the L-bracket lets you keep the camera right over the centre of the tripod in either orientation. Again, the difference between using one and not using one, may be insignificant for many types of shooting....but all the little things you do, can add up to better images in the end.

With L-brackets, there are universal models that would likely require you to also have an anti-rotation plate that is specific to your camera. This is a little plate that that fits snug to the contour of your camera, so that it can't rotate on the L-bracket. You can get L-brackets that are camera specific that should negate the need for the anti-rotation plate. There are also adjustable L-brackets that are more universal (I think Manfrotto makes one). They look cool but they don't look as secure as a solid piece.

In some cases, you would attach the QR plates to the L-bracket, but I think a better system is to have a bracket that has the plate design (arca swiss) built into the bracket, so that the bracket itself is a QR plate.

Thanks for the detailed answer!

After reading about this stuff, I'm more and more certain that I will not find anything lasting cheaply. Especially the requirement to have a tripod that I can use in salt water with a peace of mind drives me towards the most expensive Gitzo legs, which alone will be something pretty ridiculous like USD1300 (or 1000&#8364. I've particularly been looking at this model for some time now (OCEAN SYSTEMATIC Series 3 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GT3542LOS - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo), since I think I can get a new one for around thousand Euros. However, I'm 5' 9 1/4" (or 176cm) tall so if I'm reading the specs right, none of the Ocean Series are tall enough for my eye level. What problems would you see this causing me despite back pain (which I'm not too worried about yet, being on my mid-twenties J)?

As for the multi-shot (landscape) panos, did I understand correctly that that I should do more than fine with an L-bracket and a quality ball head on top of a levelling base? I remember reading somewhere that this is the setup some professional landscape panorama shooters use. I’ve now considered the model-specific L-bracket of RRS (L-Plate for Nikon D800/800E) but have also read that with this it would be hard to use an LCD screen protector on the D800. Has anyone got experience with (tackling) this issue? I know that some manual modifications to either the screen protector or the L-bracket would solve this but I’m not sure I trust my skills or tools to do this without damaging the expensive gear, so I’d rather find another solution.

 

[Wawe]

I can say with my D800 I shoot in a LOT of extreme environments, from immersed in salt water to volcanoes to -30 F. I have been using a Gitzo Ocean Traveler the last 2 years and its been amazing. Light weight and entirely corrosion resistant...I never even clean the thing. Only tripod I have not been able to destroy due to corrosion or use. I have a mid sized Gitzo ball head on it (the one it originally came with was too small), and thats held the D800 with no issues.

That's very interesting to hear, I have found very few user reviews of the Gitzo ocean series. Can you recommend any good that you read before making the purchase?

Also, do you think that the two years you have owned the product is long enough to say that it can handle the sea water? I'm a little worried that the Ocean series will suffer from corrosion too, just a little slower than other models. So did your other tripods get destroyed in months or so, or how did you see the damage due to corrosion in practice?

Reviews for the Ocean Traveler are scarce because its one of the more expensive tripods you can buy. Perhaps I should write one.......

No corrosion at all on the tripod, and I live 20 min from the beach and shoot there up to 4x per week if the weather is looking stormy. The o-rings on the legs also do a good job of keeping sand out of the joints. My previous tripods were Vanguards and they only lasted 3-6 months before comletely seizing up and becoming non-functional. That all being said, if you are absolutely anal about keeping your gear clean (I'm not) and never let your tripod sit in the car (I do) and wash it off IMMEDIATLY after every use in the ocean youd likely do fine with a cheaper standard tripod. Just depends on your style, I am hard on my gear. I'm sure Gitzo intented me to also use it as a trecking pole right?

Thanks for your input!

Okay, so it does sound like the product can fulfill the quite demanding expectations its price sets... This is good news for me since I've now fallen in love with the OCEAN SYSTEMATIC Series 3 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GT3542LOS - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo. As for the maintenance part, I, too, am looking for a tripod that wouldn't require me to spend my holidays cleaning the thing. As an amateur photographer I get to shoot amazing landscapes (from my perspective) only on vacation. Thus, I sure wouldn't like to either each night waste an hour taking the tripod legs apart for thorough fresh water rinsing or ruin the legs in months if I'm less careful. When shooting by the sea at my home town, this wouldn't be so problematic as time is not as scarce a resource as it is when travelling.

Also, I understand that you have the OCEAN TRAVELER Series 1 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GK1582OT - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo. Is this correct? Have you been using it with the head that comes with it? As the OCEAN SYSTEMATIC Series 3 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GT3542LOS - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo doesn't come with a head, I'm looking for one that would survive the extreme conditions as well as the legs. I believe the sea spray will get to the head, too, and I would like my tripod set to be such that I can use all of it by the sea if I need to without worrying too much about destroying it. When it comes to the brands, I've heard that RRS makes more water resistant ball heads than Arca-Swiss. Has anyone got any experience in how the corrosion affects ball heads (or L-brackets etc.)?

PS. Checked your homepage, beautiful landscape shots!

 

[Big Mike]

Thanks for the detailed answer!

After reading about this stuff, I'm more and more certain that I will not find anything lasting cheaply. Especially the requirement to have a tripod that I can use in salt water with a peace of mind drives me towards the most expensive Gitzo legs, which alone will be something pretty ridiculous like USD1300 (or 1000&#8364. I've particularly been looking at this model for some time now (OCEAN SYSTEMATIC Series 3 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GT3542LOS - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo), since I think I can get a new one for around thousand Euros. However, I'm 5' 9 1/4" (or 176cm) tall so if I'm reading the specs right, none of the Ocean Series are tall enough for my eye level. What problems would you see this causing me despite back pain (which I'm not too worried about yet, being on my mid-twenties J)?

As for the multi-shot (landscape) panos, did I understand correctly that that I should do more than fine with an L-bracket and a quality ball head on top of a levelling base? I remember reading somewhere that this is the setup some professional landscape panorama shooters use. I’ve now considered the model-specific L-bracket of RRS (L-Plate for Nikon D800/800E) but have also read that with this it would be hard to use an LCD screen protector on the D800. Has anyone got experience with (tackling) this issue? I know that some manual modifications to either the screen protector or the L-bracket would solve this but I’m not sure I trust my skills or tools to do this without damaging the expensive gear, so I’d rather find another solution.

It's not essential that your tripod be as tall as you are, remember that the head and camera sit on top so it's closer to eye level, and bending over a bit isn't too bad. Personally, I usually prefer that the camera be closer to the ground, so I spread the tripod legs out and sit/lay on the ground...or I bring a little folding stool to sit on. But give the choice, it's better to have a taller tripod, than one that is too short.

For shooting panos, you really don't really need the L-bracket, as long as you are not close to anything in the frame...but I still think it's a good idea. The levelling base isn't essential, it just makes it easier.

The most important decision, I think, is the head. You want something that is easy and comfortable to use as well as being sturdy.

And if you really, really want to get into doing serious panos (with multiple rows and columns to stitch), there are the Gigapan products.
The GigaPan EPIC Pro: Digital Photography Review

gigapan.com

 

[Wawe]

Thanks for the detailed answer!

After reading about this stuff, I'm more and more certain that I will not find anything lasting cheaply. Especially the requirement to have a tripod that I can use in salt water with a peace of mind drives me towards the most expensive Gitzo legs, which alone will be something pretty ridiculous like USD1300 (or 1000&#8364. I've particularly been looking at this model for some time now (OCEAN SYSTEMATIC Series 3 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GT3542LOS - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo), since I think I can get a new one for around thousand Euros. However, I'm 5' 9 1/4" (or 176cm) tall so if I'm reading the specs right, none of the Ocean Series are tall enough for my eye level. What problems would you see this causing me despite back pain (which I'm not too worried about yet, being on my mid-twenties J)?

As for the multi-shot (landscape) panos, did I understand correctly that that I should do more than fine with an L-bracket and a quality ball head on top of a levelling base? I remember reading somewhere that this is the setup some professional landscape panorama shooters use. I’ve now considered the model-specific L-bracket of RRS (L-Plate for Nikon D800/800E) but have also read that with this it would be hard to use an LCD screen protector on the D800. Has anyone got experience with (tackling) this issue? I know that some manual modifications to either the screen protector or the L-bracket would solve this but I’m not sure I trust my skills or tools to do this without damaging the expensive gear, so I’d rather find another solution.

It's not essential that your tripod be as tall as you are, remember that the head and camera sit on top so it's closer to eye level, and bending over a bit isn't too bad. Personally, I usually prefer that the camera be closer to the ground, so I spread the tripod legs out and sit/lay on the ground...or I bring a little folding stool to sit on. But give the choice, it's better to have a taller tripod, than one that is too short.

For shooting panos, you really don't really need the L-bracket, as long as you are not close to anything in the frame...but I still think it's a good idea. The levelling base isn't essential, it just makes it easier.

The most important decision, I think, is the head. You want something that is easy and comfortable to use as well as being sturdy.

And if you really, really want to get into doing serious panos (with multiple rows and columns to stitch), there are the Gigapan products.
The GigaPan EPIC Pro: Digital Photography Review

gigapan.com

Thanks again, I'll take a look at the link, but I don't think I'm going to specialize in panos or anything, so there's a limit on how much I'm willing to invest in pano gear.

What I now find most confusing are the differences in the types of heads. I've read reviews but they typically compare same type of heads with each other and not the advantages and disadvantages of the types themselves. I've been recommended ball heads but, to be honest, I can't say I fully understand why I should buy that type.

I also don't feel I have a good understanding in levelling bases. I think I'll get one later on if I clearly see how it would improve my photos.

I'll also probably watch some youtube stuff on tripod gear to get a clear picture of how all of these accessories work in practice. There probably are a lot of video tutorials and reviews, as well, which I haven't seen yet.

 

[spacefuzz]

That's very interesting to hear, I have found very few user reviews of the Gitzo ocean series. Can you recommend any good that you read before making the purchase?

Also, do you think that the two years you have owned the product is long enough to say that it can handle the sea water? I'm a little worried that the Ocean series will suffer from corrosion too, just a little slower than other models. So did your other tripods get destroyed in months or so, or how did you see the damage due to corrosion in practice?

Reviews for the Ocean Traveler are scarce because its one of the more expensive tripods you can buy. Perhaps I should write one.......

No corrosion at all on the tripod, and I live 20 min from the beach and shoot there up to 4x per week if the weather is looking stormy. The o-rings on the legs also do a good job of keeping sand out of the joints. My previous tripods were Vanguards and they only lasted 3-6 months before comletely seizing up and becoming non-functional. That all being said, if you are absolutely anal about keeping your gear clean (I'm not) and never let your tripod sit in the car (I do) and wash it off IMMEDIATLY after every use in the ocean youd likely do fine with a cheaper standard tripod. Just depends on your style, I am hard on my gear. I'm sure Gitzo intented me to also use it as a trecking pole right?

Thanks for your input!

Okay, so it does sound like the product can fulfill the quite demanding expectations its price sets... This is good news for me since I've now fallen in love with the OCEAN SYSTEMATIC Series 3 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GT3542LOS - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo. As for the maintenance part, I, too, am looking for a tripod that wouldn't require me to spend my holidays cleaning the thing. As an amateur photographer I get to shoot amazing landscapes (from my perspective) only on vacation. Thus, I sure wouldn't like to either each night waste an hour taking the tripod legs apart for thorough fresh water rinsing or ruin the legs in months if I'm less careful. When shooting by the sea at my home town, this wouldn't be so problematic as time is not as scarce a resource as it is when travelling.

Also, I understand that you have the OCEAN TRAVELER Series 1 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GK1582OT - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo. Is this correct? Have you been using it with the head that comes with it? As the OCEAN SYSTEMATIC Series 3 Carbon Tripod Anti-corrosion 4-sec GT3542LOS - Ocean Tripods | Gitzo doesn't come with a head, I'm looking for one that would survive the extreme conditions as well as the legs. I believe the sea spray will get to the head, too, and I would like my tripod set to be such that I can use all of it by the sea if I need to without worrying too much about destroying it. When it comes to the brands, I've heard that RRS makes more water resistant ball heads than Arca-Swiss. Has anyone got any experience in how the corrosion affects ball heads (or L-brackets etc.)?

PS. Checked your homepage, beautiful landscape shots!

Thank you I'm glad you like my photos I need to get over to your country and do some photography, it looks gorgeous!

As for the ball head....yeah the one that caame with the original OT wasnt worth it. So I replaced it with the Series 1 Quick Release Center Ball Head With Bubble Sphere GH1780QR - Center Ball Heads | Gitzo Its been working great, and most of the materials are coated so the only corrosion I see is the spring for the quick plate release. So far it hasnt impacted functionality and I don't go out of my way to clean it (of course it doesnt get wave drenched like the legs either). I've never heard complaints from any of my friends who use Arca Swiss heads aside from perhaps the weight.

For your screen protector, they sell film protectors as well. Something similar to this: InvisibleShield - Nikon D800 (2012) Screen Protection | ZAGG I just picked one up at the local camera store for $10. Then you just dont have to worry about the plastic.