Suggested f-step for shooting landscape

odinibo

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I've been reading many books, and many of them said that for a general landscape, at 18mm, f/16 or f/22 is a good point to start. Is that a legit statement?

Also, I have a wide-angel extension lens, not the normal wide-angel lens, just a screw-on attachment. In that case, what will the f-step be? or it does not matter?

This photo I use f/11 at 18mm with the wide-angel extention, then add black-white at about 50% effect. Please comment on this photo.


IMGP0177_mod by ol_ucla, on Flickr

Thanks in advance.
 
The correct term is "f-stop" and no,I wouldn't think so. I shoot landscapes f8-f11.

Your images isn't wide enough but it is pleasant except for the sky which ended up yellowish.
 
Most lenses are at their sharpest mid-range (F8-F11)... and since extreme DOF is not a usually a factor in landscapes, shoot for sharpness..

Your screw on attachment is nowhere near 18 mm! And it is probably causing serious loss of image quality... all cheap lenses do!
 
About the only way to determine what f-stop is best is to actually test your lenses. Put the camera on a tripod and take a series of shots from wide-open to stopped all the way down. Then pixel-peep the results. If you have a zoom, then repeat the process for every marked focal length on the barrel. This will provide you with the the lens' sweet spot. You can then use that knowledge in the field to not only choose the sharpest aperture, but the one you need for the DOF you need.

........, then add black-white at about 50% effect. ......

I have no clue what this means.
 
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The picture's pretty good. I don't like that the light isn't telling me what time of day it is, there are elements that suggest morning or evening, but it's not consistent, it also feels like daylight on an overcast day. Possibly it's just a bit bright to quite work out.

You need.. enough depth of field. You can use an online depth of field calculator, or you can take a test shot and zoom into it to see what's sharp and what's not, and make adjustments accordingly.
 
This is good info on the F-stops.

So what do you typical shoot using larger F-stops like F12-22?
 
If I am quite close and still want DoF, or if I have too much light, I will stop down under f/11 with a normal length lens.

I pay for it with lost sharpness due to diffraction, which will increase as you go up. While that is measurable, I find that if i don't worry about it, it doesn't bother me. Soon as I start worrying, I start pixel peeping. Then I get sad.
 
This is good info on the F-stops.

So what do you typical shoot using larger F-stops like F12-22?

It depends. I prefer to shoot at the 'sweet spot' of the lens. Most of mine are at f/11. I may go to f/16 if I need the DOF, but I don't like to go past that because of diffraction softening the image.
 
Whether or not you notice the effects of diffraction depends on how large you want to view the image. A large gallery print will probably show the diffraction issues... a small-ish 8x10 might not.
 
This is good info on the F-stops.

So what do you typical shoot using larger F-stops like F12-22?

It depends. I prefer to shoot at the 'sweet spot' of the lens. Most of mine are at f/11. I may go to f/16 if I need the DOF, but I don't like to go past that because of diffraction softening the image.

IC,


How about night time shooting? I really don't know what is best and shoot all over the place, F2.8-11.

Whether or not you notice the effects of diffraction depends on how large you want to view the image. A large gallery print will probably show the diffraction issues... a small-ish 8x10 might not.


Thats good to know.


This is off subject a little but can you straighten this up a little in post process? I'm using Capture Nikon NX2 and I like to zoom in on areas of a photo and play with the noise reduction function to help sharpen the photo.
 
IC,


How about night time shooting? I really don't know what is best and shoot all over the place, F2.8-11.

If I can get away with it, I would still shoot at the sweet spot. The further I get from that, the less sharp the image will be. Opening the lens will cause the corners to go soft.





This is off subject a little but can you straighten this up a little in post process? I'm using Capture Nikon NX2 and I like to zoom in on areas of a photo and play with the noise reduction function to help sharpen the photo.

Noise reduction actually softens the image.
 
When to shoot at f/22? Well, if you want the entire scene to be in focus, and f/16 doesn't do that for your lens, then you shoot at f/22. If still not as much in focus as you want, shoot at f/32 if you have it.

Pretty simple.

Having a very slightly sharper image due to (lack of) diffraction is not very helpful if it isn't the photo that you wanted to take!
 
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............Having a very slightly softer image due to diffraction is not very helpful if it isn't the photo that you wanted to take!

FIFY.
 

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