Technically correct exposures on d7100

[SnappingShark]

OK, so as I've not been shooting, I've been post processing.

I've been working for a short while on getting "technically" correct exposures instead of going for the artsy exposures. Sufficed to say, a lot of shots are pretty straight forward and simple.

However, whenever I use my camera and its built in light meter, it always gets under exposed by 1 stop (according to software edits).
Is there a setting to say that when the exposure meter is "correct", then adjust it so it indicates 1 stop undexexposed so I can bump it up to get he CORRECT exposure?

Does this make sense? It's with every photo I've taken using technically correct exposure.

 

[Tailgunner]

exposure compensate +1?

I've noticed the same thing and just plus or minus one on the meter or exposure compensate +/-.

 

[apaflo]

OK, so as I've not been shooting, I've been post processing.

I've been working for a short while on getting "technically" correct exposures instead of going for the artsy exposures. Sufficed to say, a lot of shots are pretty straight forward and simple.

However, whenever I use my camera and its built in light meter, it always gets under exposed by 1 stop (according to software edits).
Is there a setting to say that when the exposure meter is "correct", then adjust it so it indicates 1 stop undexexposed so I can bump it up to get he CORRECT exposure?

Does this make sense? It's with every photo I've taken using technically correct exposure.

Use "Exposure Compensation". Set it to +1 and see how close you get. If that over exposes, set it lower, say to +0.7 and try that.

Of course there is still a huge problem, because what is "right" for one scene will not be right for another. With experience you'll get better at deciding when it needs more or less. But there's nothing like measuring rather than trying to judge it. Look at the histogram. That's a measured result. Combing the graphic display and the blinking display provides an extremely good indication of how close you are.

 

[SnappingShark]

OK, so I've not been into those settings before - or haven't played with them yet - is this something that can be set for eternity, or has to be done on a "every time I turn it on" basis?

I can't shoot for a couple of weeks, but am interested to know.

It's on every picture, every scene, it always needs to be adjusted!

 

[Tailgunner]

OK, so I've not been into those settings before - or haven't played with them yet - is this something that can be set for eternity, or has to be done on a "every time I turn it on" basis?

I can't shoot for a couple of weeks, but am interested to know.

It's on every picture, every scene, it always needs to be adjusted!

The D7100 has a +/- button on top near the shutter button. This is to adjust exposure compensation. You just hold the button down and turn the forward dial (maybe the rear dial) to adjust the compensation...one direction for + and the other for - compensation. You can view the changes from the top LCD screen. Now this setting will remain the same even if you power down the camera. So keep that in mind with changes in your lighting.

 

[ratssass]

...i seem to get the same results as BBN shooting in full manual.Both Lightroom 4,and PSP13 want to increase exposure.Most times I think they choose to overexpose.

 

[SnappingShark]

sweet!!

Thanks! I like the fact it lasts even through a power down! Thanks guys

 

[apaflo]

OK, so I've not been into those settings before - or haven't played with them yet - is this something that can be set for eternity, or has to be done on a "every time I turn it on" basis?

I can't shoot for a couple of weeks, but am interested to know.

It's on every picture, every scene, it always needs to be adjusted!

Exposure Compensation is pretty much something you'd set for each shot, individually, if the most accuracy is your goal.

But realistically, in many cases you can set it and shoot away for awhile without needing to change.

All it does is "calibrate" the exposure meter. A light meter assumes it is looking at an area that averages out to middle grey. Different meters are calibrated differently. For example any given meter might be calibrated for 12 percent reflectance, 14 percent, or 18 percent. Then there is the distinction between using a "spot" meter, a center weighted meter, or one that averages your entire view.

Whatever it is, the ideal concept is that the meter will provide a reading that results in middle grey, or about 2.7 fstops lower than pure white. Of course if you are shooting a black dog in a coal bin it won't be right, and a white bunny in a snow bank won't be right either! So if you look at a scene, for example a nice winter scene that is mostly snow, you have to realize that the meter doesn't see it as all white, but rather as all middle grey. To get white, adjust Exposure Compensation to +1 EV. Other shots will be the opposite, and might need -1 EV (a raven with a dark forest in the background).

It's very much a judgement call, and experience counts.

But if you keep your camera set to show you a preview of each shot, and set the preview to show blinking highlights and an RGB histogram, you can check that to see very near to exactly what you are actually getting. Use the camera as if it were an external light meter! Just click the button and then check to see if changes are necessary. Extra exposures don't cost a thing, so waste just as many as it takes to find out what works best for any given shot.

And if you are shooting something that is changing continuously, making it impossible to reshoot if it isn't right, set exposure to something conservatively underexposed. You can easily pull the exposure up later. But if anything gets overexposed (truly overexposed where the data is clipping), there is no way to get it back. (Hmmm... sounds just like the camera defaults to about that and therefore your original complaint!)

 

[Tailgunner]

And if you are shooting something that is changing continuously, making it impossible to reshoot if it isn't right, set exposure to something conservatively underexposed. You can easily pull the exposure up later. But if anything gets overexposed (truly overexposed where the data is clipping), there is no way to get it back. (Hmmm... sounds just like the camera defaults to about that and therefore your original complaint!)

Good advice!

I'll adjust my exposure compensate if my meter is way off but for the most part it only shoots slightly underexposed. I used to hate it but over time found it was easier to simply pull up the exposure in post processing on an underexposed photo vs trying to salvage an over exposed photo. And as stated above, clicking off a couple extra shots to double check exposure is free, so take advantage of it. I shoot a lot of sunrise or sunset type shots and the lighting is constantly changing...the last 10-15 changes really quick. So I'm also checking my settings and clicking off an extra shot or two to double check things.

Anyhow, it takes some time to get used to your camera but it will eventually become second nature.

 

[Derrel]

I would say that is the exposures you are getting with the lenses you are using and the way the camera is set up, and the way that YOU do your metering, that exposure compensation is NOT WHAT is needed, but something else. THat would be in the custom settings menu Custom Setting b5, Fine Tune Optimal Exposure.

This is a way to override the metering, and to "calibrate" or "offset" the metering system so it achieves the optimal exposure for YOU. This is entirely separate from exposure compensation. By adjusting the Fine Tune Optimal Exposure setting, you will in effect get the meter properly "zeroed in" to use to old expression; that way, you can then add + or - exposure compensation, and get the DESIRED results, along with having normalized +/- values.

 

[ratssass]

I would say that is the exposures you are getting with the lenses you are using and the way the camera is set up, and the way that YOU do your metering, that exposure compensation is NOT WHAT is needed, but something else. THat would be in the custom settings menu Custom Setting b5, Fine Tune Optimal Exposure.

This is a way to override the metering, and to "calibrate" or "offset" the metering system so it achieves the optimal exposure for YOU. This is entirely separate from exposure compensation. By adjusting the Fine Tune Optimal Exposure setting, you will in effect get the meter properly "zeroed in" to use to old expression; that way, you can then add + or - exposure compensation, and get the DESIRED results, along with having normalized +/- values.

does this work in full manual?The reason I ask is,I've used the lightmeter app on my cell-phone,and it pretty much dials up what matches "0" on my in camera (d7000) meter.Then,as I said if I bring the file into either lightroom 4 or PSP13,those programs want to increase exposure.....JPEG or RAW...

 

[Derrel]

I would say that is the exposures you are getting with the lenses you are using and the way the camera is set up, and the way that YOU do your metering, that exposure compensation is NOT WHAT is needed, but something else. THat would be in the custom settings menu Custom Setting b5, Fine Tune Optimal Exposure.

This is a way to override the metering, and to "calibrate" or "offset" the metering system so it achieves the optimal exposure for YOU. This is entirely separate from exposure compensation. By adjusting the Fine Tune Optimal Exposure setting, you will in effect get the meter properly "zeroed in" to use to old expression; that way, you can then add + or - exposure compensation, and get the DESIRED results, along with having normalized +/- values.

does this work in full manual?

Yes sir, it does. It works in all metering modes. Lemme see if I can find an article on-line that will tell you more.

Okay, here's one.Nikon D7100 tips and tricks

And according to noted camera manual author David Busch, the Fine Tune Optimal Exposure setting will "survive a two-button re-set", AND it also does NOT show up, meaning is not "indicated" in the finder!!!

David Busch’s Compact Field Guide for the Nikon® D7100 - David D. Busch - Google Books

 

[ratssass]

cool...........thanks,Derrell

 

[apaflo]

See page 236 of the D7100 manual.

"Fine-Tuning Exposure

Exposure fine-tuning is not affected by two-button resets. Note that as the
exposure compensation icon is not displayed, the only way to determine how much
exposure has been altered is to view the amount in the fine-tuning menu. Exposure
compensations (page 86) is preferred in most situations." (Emphasis added.)

This is not actually separate from Exposure Compensation, it is virtually the same thing and just hidded from view. Note that it is adjusted in 1/6 stop increments, and over a range of plus or minus 1 stop. The primary reason it is not recommended over EC is precisely because it is hidden, and unless it is set using far more precise means that most people have available it is in fact making the light meter inaccurate. In that sense fine tuning is calibration and EC is a personal offset.

With most precision equipment the calibration adjustments are hidden and the operator offsets are on the front panel. Calibration techs adjust one, operators adjust the other. I personally do not have equipment to calibrate a light meter,and see no point in adjusting the fine tuning.

 

[TheLost]

Umm.. maybe its already been mentioned.. but.. What metering mode are you using on the camera?

'Matrix' - Takes the entire scene and tries to find the best balance between the light and dark areas.

'Center weighted' - Kind of does the same thing as Matrix but it only looks at the center area of the scene.

'Spot' - Sets the exposure based on the selected focus point.

If i had to guess... i'd say your mostly shooting in Matrix mode and that's why your shots are a bit under exposed. Matrix is a 'compromise' of the light and dark areas of your picture.

Your exposures would be correct from the get-go if you used 'spot' metering and select the target you want to expose properly. They put Exposure-Lock on your camera for a reason.

Full disclosure.. I shoot 99% in Matrix mode


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