Tele extension tube

[Bukitimah]

Hi, I have a Nikon 70-300 mm vr tele lens. I am thinking of adding an extension tube to increase the distance. I know I am going to loose some lights but 300 mm is not good enough for shooting birds. Any advice and the brand/type?

 

[480sparky44 44]

Nikons' website does not list any of theirs as being compatible. If Nikon doesn't make one, I wouldn't put too much stock is some third-world country making one.

 

[Patrice]

Extension tubes are very different animals from teleconverters. You might be thinking of teleconverters to change the focal length extents of your lens.

The nikon ones have a front element that will interfere with the rear elements of shorter focal length lenses (also zooms that start short).

Kenko manufactures a series of 5 element teleconverters that are said to be functional with nearly all nikkor lenses (but I suspect not the fisheyes) and have very good reviews. Take note that you might see some image degradation. The latest nikkor tc1.4 is said to be optically transparent but might not be compatible with your lens.

Photographing wildlife to high technical standards is an expensive hobby. Boating could be cheaper.

 

[table1349]

I am going to assume that you are talking about the Nikkor Telephoto zoom lens - 70 - 300 mm - F/4.5-5.6.

Do not order yourself a Telecoverter for this lens yet. A little TC information might help. TC's, no matter the quality of the lens, will cause image degradation to some extent or another. It is simple optical physics. A TC will also cause light loss. In your case I would suspect what you want the TC for will also hamper getting the birding shots you want. Most consumer camera bodies will not auto focus with any lens with a smaller aperture that f5.6. A 1.4 TC on your lens zoomed all the way out will have an f stop of 8. A 1.4 TC causes 1 full stop of light loss. A 2X TC will cause two full stops of light loss.

Secondly while a TC will magnify the view on that lens it will also magnify virtually every defect in the lens. If it is slightly soft now it will be softer, etc. TC's are made to ideally be put on top quality prime lenses over 100mm. They will work well on many, but not all, top quality zoom lenses. Canon TC's are only compatible with some of their L glass, not all. I suspect that Nikon is the same way. A top quality TC on a compatible top quality lens will usually yield very acceptable shots. However on a consumer grade lens the situation is different.

Which brings me to why I said not to order a TC for your lens yet. Best thing for you to do is to go to a camera store that carries something along the line of the Kenko Pro line of TC's. Take your body and lens and try out the combination and see one if it will work on your body and lens and secondly if the image quality is acceptable to you. That way you will know up front if you are spending your money on something you will use.

 

[Overread19]

Just note that Nikon camera bodies will continue to AF after f5.6, unlike Canon bodies which will stop AF if the camera detects the max aperture being smaller than f5.6 (excluding their 1D series bodies which will AF up to f8 and select midrange bodies which will also AF up to f8, but only in liveview mode).

Note however that whilst the Nikon bodies retain the AF functionality, they will, just like the Canons, lose a lot of speed and accuracy and will be very prone to hunting and losing focus. In short once you breach the f5.6 limit reliability goes out the window excepting in the best of light. When this is added to the optical quality drop it becomes a situation where you won't get much more than blurry record shots with difficulty on a 70-300mm type lens.

Honestly you're best move is two ways:
1) Improve fieldcraft to get physically closer to the subjects - not easy and in many ways the hardest part of wildlife photography and also the most critical

2) Save - yep start up a savings account or a money jar and keep saving for one of the better quality lenses on the market that will give you the range you need.


By all means go to the shop and try out the combo of your lens and a Kenko Teleconverter - but don't just review on camera - review on the computer; however for most people the quality drop is going to be too great (esp when combined with the AF effective loss).

 

[table1349]

Just note that Nikon camera bodies will continue to AF after f5.6, unlike Canon bodies which will stop AF if the camera detects the max aperture being smaller than f5.6 (excluding their 1D series bodies which will AF up to f8 and select midrange bodies which will also AF up to f8, but only in liveview mode).

Note however that whilst the Nikon bodies retain the AF functionality, they will, just like the Canons, lose a lot of speed and accuracy and will be very prone to hunting and losing focus. In short once you breach the f5.6 limit reliability goes out the window excepting in the best of light. When this is added to the optical quality drop it becomes a situation where you won't get much more than blurry record shots with difficulty on a 70-300mm type lens.

Honestly you're best move is two ways:
1) Improve fieldcraft to get physically closer to the subjects - not easy and in many ways the hardest part of wildlife photography and also the most critical

2) Save - yep start up a savings account or a money jar and keep saving for one of the better quality lenses on the market that will give you the range you need.


By all means go to the shop and try out the combo of your lens and a Kenko Teleconverter - but don't just review on camera - review on the computer; however for most people the quality drop is going to be too great (esp when combined with the AF effective loss).

Good to know. Thanks.

 

[Bukitimah]

Ok, seem like the TC is not a good option. I have not decided on birds shooting yet. Will concentrate on other aspects first before jumping into costly lenses. Thank you