The "How I Develop Film" thread

[ully]

Both stainless tank and plastic can be used. I use the Nikors and Paterson.
The stainless absorbs temp changes fast and the plastic stores the temp better. I prefer the Nikor stainless.

For a bath, I use a big foam plastic tub full of water at the temp I want. I put a wire basket in it to just submerge my tanks. I add a aquarium stirrer in to circulate the water and turn off and on a coffee cup heater if I need a little heat. Normally I can keep the temp within a degree quite easily for the time I need.

Two and three part mixes for C41 is about as easy as for B&W film. Its really easy to develop a roll or two at less cost than a lab. I normally store up enough film to use most of my mixed batch within a short time. Storage is a problem if you don't do much film.

There used to be a lot more selection for C41 chemistry than there is now. But B&H has several kits. I like Tetenal the best.

 

[Majik Imaje]

ALWAYS USE KODAK PRODUCTS
They are the oldest(company) & still the best.

STICK with ONE FILM..learn how to use it and that is going to take ?

much practice !


KODAK'S ABOSLUTE BEST EVER COLOR FILM (negative)

Is STILL Vericolor! get some.. it is the only film made... .. for exact match EXACTING RESULTS!

If you do purchase vericolor film.. make sure you purchase it out of the freezer.. NOT OFF THE SHELF!

My philosiphy is this.. CHEMICALS, FILM, PAPER, ( I learned the hard way)
IF YOU WANT THE BEST.. ... .. then use the best! - simple!

 

[Fate]

Is there a good website for buying B&W chemicals from? Based in the uk.

 

[burtharrris]

It might be just me, but I'd prefer to buy in a store. The owner of the shop usually knows a lot, and can make some good recommendations as well. Plus that fact that most mail-order companies aren't allowed to ship/mail Stop Bath (acetic acid). I only know of Ritz, B&H, Adorama, and Calumet, they are all US companies.

Contrary to the previous post, you don't have to get all Kodak. You don't have to buy all Ilford. It all works, and when you just start you really can't tell the difference anyway.

 

[ThomThomsk]

It might be just me, but I'd prefer to buy in a store

Me too, but then I have the luxury of passing close to this place a few times a week:

http://www.silverprint.co.uk/

I've never tried Silverprint's mail order service, but I have used these people and they were fine:

http://www.retrophotographic.com/

 

[Early]

... although once I accidentally processed some C41 BW with the standard BW method and chems; it was bulk rolled, and I forgot to label it properly. The negs were thin, but printable.

I always wanted to try that. How was the grain?

 

[yellowjeep]

I have been looking at B&H and else where and I am sorry if I missed, but where is the best place to get a starter kit for B+W?

 

[christopher walrath]

This is for TMX-120 roll film in HC110 Dil'B', Indicator Stop Bath and Kodafix in a downstairs half bathroom

16 oz Stainless Steel Tank and reels. (With reels with the bent around wire clips, I suggest bending the ends of the clips a little further around with a small pair of needle nose pliers to allow the film to load into the clip a little deeper.)

First I mix my chems form the stock solutions for one-shot use.

HC110 Dilution B (1:31) (0.5 ounces HC110 to 15.5 ounces 68F water)
Kodak Indicator Stop Bath (1:63) (0.25 ounces Bath to 15.75 ounces 68F water)
Kodafix Fixing Agent (1:3) (4 ounces Kodafix to 12 ounces 68F water)
For water I use tap as long as I don't taste the monthly chemical dump from a test drink I take first.

Seal your door edges so that no light comes into the room. Then I load the film in the dark. (If you're new at this, ppractice this in the light with a practice roll, first looking at it, then with eyes closed.) First, TURN OUT THE LIGHTS. (OOOOOOHHHHHH, SCARY!!!!!!) Then I seperate the film from the paper backing until I get to the tape on the inner end. I pull the tape off the paper and fold it over the end of the film. Then I feed the taped end into the clip and load the film into the reel, checking for slack every half turn (1/4 inch or so). If the film moves then keep going. If not, you skipped a loop, go back, fix it and then proceed. The end will want to curl so take your time and make sure that the film is settled into both spools on the reel so that there is a seperation between the edge of the film and the inner loop. Put the film into the tank, close the lid and then turn on your lights.

Get out your timer, your thermometer (to maintain temp of running water), a towel to wipe up chems or splashed water.

WATER PRESOAK ONE MINUTE
Fill the tank with 68F water for a one minute presoak. I agitate once initially during the presoak.

DEVELOP SIX MINUTES
Dump water in sink, fill the tank with developer. Agitate continuously first 30 seconds then 5 seconds for every thirty through the six minute development time.

(Note: When filling the tank, a. fill near the edge of the sink so if you get an air bubble you don't have to move far to tap it loose and b. hold tank at an angle to prevent air bubble from forming in the first place.)

STOP BATH THIRTY SECONDS
Dump developer into sink. Fill tank with stop bath. Agitate once initailly.

FIXER FOR FIVE MINUTES
Dump stop bath into sink. Fill tank with fixer. I agitate once every twenty seconds for duration of fixing.

WATER RINSE
TWENTY MINUTES
I began rinsing for twenty minutes with the water running very slowly, enough to fill the tank every five minutes, for twenty minutes.
5-10-20
But then I did this which takes less time and water. Fill tank with water and agitate five times. Pour out. Refill and agitate ten times. Pour out and refill. Agitate twenty times. Pour out.

PHOTO FLO DRYING AGENT ONE MINUTE.
Lift the reel out of the tank, pour a wee little bit of the Photo FLo or a drop of dishsoap into the bottom of the tank and fill, replacing the reel into the tank and let water run for one minute. Then turn off water, remove film from reel, run between index and middle finger to 'squeegee' water from the negative strip and hang dry. I use wood clothespins, one on top, one on bottom. Rinse sink and gear THOROUGHLY, turn on fan and leave film to dry for about an hour. Then cut and store in archive sheets.

Upcoming details for Fuji Neopan 400 and Efke 25 for this chemistry. Please forward any questions to flash19901@comcast.net or post them here.

 

[Smilemon]

I run 2 pints of water through my hot shot to get it warm. Then I take the nalgeen bottle (that is taped to stop light from getting in) and open the top and put the thermometer in. I get the temp to about 20 C (I don't know how accurate my thermometer is) and I fill my tank.
I use a single tank. Its Stainless steel with a nice stainless steel reel and cap and lid. Its 8 oz and I just single shot the dev.

11 min of dev.
30 sec - 1 min of rinse
5 min of fix
Remove lid
30 sec - 1 min of rinse
1 min of hypo clear
4 min of rinse
1 min of Photoflo
Then I wrap it up in a towel and dry it. I'm thinking of taking a Quaker oats tube and an old fan to make a film dryer. Think it would work?

 

[nanny32]

Coooool !

 

[ToddLange]

sorry for the post in the old thread, but i think all you darkroom folks round the forums will be seeing a lot of me in the darkroom parts. lol so.

i normally develop my photos in sun light(whats the darkroom for???). works pretty good, but they all come out dark as night! what am i doing wrong?!?! :lmao: haha jk.

from the somewhat little experience in the darkroom at school I know what im doing, but dont really know what im doin at the same time but i have a great time doin it! and i like my prints! lol.

i know how to do the test strips and how long its suppose to be in the developer and stop bath and fixer then the wash and dryer

and we are only doing b&w's so i dont know anything about color. but i actually rather keep it that way, b&w seems to have that art technique thing goin on with it.(not saying color doesnt, i just have yet to mess with color and dont know if i want to. i like b&w)



so is there any special techniques yall use in the darkroom that you think makes your prints turn out better?

 

[Kirep]

Hi reviving an old thread :

I rutinously develop C41 films (Kodak Gold & Fuji Superia) as B&W using caffenol chemicals. Its extremely simple!
And the results are good, as long as you are able to follow simple instructions. Just do a search on this forum for Kafenol 327R.............

 

[waderr]

Am not well experienced in tis but i think ur way not bad

 

[waderr]

I dont think so try it in us... I can assure u ucan get there

 

[KCHRIZTIAM]

i like this post : Thumbup: