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The Myths of Streetshooting - explained and mostly busted

Can't really add much worthwhile to this conversation other than I have really enjoyed having an articulated screen. The ability to look down when composing similar to a twin lens reflex has enabled me to capture people in their environment with alerting them to my presence. So, having an articulating screen can definitely help. That said, I do enjoy the "always on" aspect of my QL17.
 
Can't really add much worthwhile to this conversation other than I have really enjoyed having an articulated screen. The ability to look down when composing similar to a twin lens reflex has enabled me to capture people in their environment with alerting them to my presence. So, having an articulating screen can definitely help. That said, I do enjoy the "always on" aspect of my QL17.

Whatever you took it with, this shot below is superb.
Thought so when I saw it, still do.


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Myth 1 – to shoot street photography you must have asmall camera body and a relatively short focal length lens, generally in the 30-40 mm
range.


This kind of statement is like saying that all novels must be written on a yellow, lined pad with a number 2 pencil.

I prefer a 0.5mm mechanical pencil filled with HB lead for day-to-day lettering and light sketches. For emphasis, I'll use a 0.7mm pencil with B lead.

For years I shot with a big, clunky Nikon dslr usually with a 24-70 lens, often with a 50 or a 70-200. This is alarge bulky setup but, in my opinion, it worked for me. Yes, it was large and bulky and obvious but the trade-offs were superb image quality and very, very fast autofocus.

(Longer ago) I switched to the much smaller, lighter Olympus OMD 5 with equivalent lenses. My reason for switching was that the bigger cameras and lenses were just getting to be too much of a physical burden. I came back from 3 weeks hiking around SEA with two bodies, four lenses, backup hard drive and I made a vow to either get a smaller system or to stay in bed.
I'm with ya brother. I ditch the heavy gear when out and about, family get-togethers and the like for the m4/3 format. However, I must add that I have shot some really decent portrait shots that I doubt anyone can tell the difference on the web from a m4/3 camera, an APS-C camera or a full frame camera.

Myth 1 – to shoot street photography you must have asmall camera body and a relatively short focal length lens, generally in the 30-40 mm
range.

For discussion purposes, a Myth 2 might be handy. :biggrin:
 
I've been reading your blog and appreciate what you have written there as well as your photo's.
Not sure I can make the grade but will be making an attempt. :-)
 
I was shot from the hip (ok, from the belly) with some small unpterentious camera last Friday. I was staring at him through my DSLR viewfinder, he was (kind of) trying to be discreet, using his articulated screen.... I shot him and he shot me. :salute: We did not talk, did not even had an eye contact. But I am pretty sure we both ended up with a crap photo... You can draw your own conclusions..

PS: Is his left arm shorter than the right one, or he just feels uneasy?


$Street shooter.webp
 
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I use a D800 and a 70-200 2.8 VR2. It's heavy and bulky but keeps me at a range to get a shot without them reacting to the camera... however, as someone said... that's on the first shot. People are very good at knowing when a camera is pointed at them.

The gear CAN matter... depends on your shooting style. With a 30mm lens, I wouldn't do it. :)
 
I will disagree, with the equipment i use i can get shots quicker than your OM or your DSLR and they will not hear the shutter fire and i shoot with a 28mm on film

is quicker always better?

Yes too slow you have missed the moment and using a rangefinder i can see outside of the frame giving me a better veiw

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2
 
I will disagree, with the equipment i use i can get shots quicker than your OM or your DSLR and they will not hear the shutter fire and i shoot with a 28mm on film

is quicker always better?

Yes too slow you have missed the moment and using a rangefinder i can see outside of the frame giving me a better veiw

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2

there are always trade-offs.
For your style and intent, then perhaps the faster is better always means something because the trade-offs are worth it.
Because I sometimes shoot one-handed, with long lenses, from my waist etc. then the different qualities a camera possesses have other, different values and I find the best balance of features, including speed, for the way I shoot - but that balance isn't a rule for everyone.
 
is quicker always better?

Yes too slow you have missed the moment and using a rangefinder i can see outside of the frame giving me a better veiw

Sent from my GT-I9100P using Tapatalk 2

there are always trade-offs.
For your style and intent, then perhaps the faster is better always means something because the trade-offs are worth it.
Because I sometimes shoot one-handed, with long lenses, from my waist etc. then the different qualities a camera possesses have other, different values and I find the best balance of features, including speed, for the way I shoot - but that balance isn't a rule for everyone.

The new E-M1 looks rather nice
 
Myth 1 – to shoot street photography you must have asmall camera body and a relatively short focal length lens, generally in the 30-40 mm range.

Lew, you KNOW you have to use small equipment for street photography. Every camera store in America will tell you this. And you need a 1Dx or a D4 with a 400mm and a 1.4x to shoot sports, and a 24-70 and 5D Mk III to shoot portraits. If we don't buy all that then the stores will go out of business. lol.

Yes, I am joking. I agree that you should use what you have and go take pictures. There is nothing wrong with wanting those other lenses or cameras but it is not needed. (Although I do find myself wanting more ultra wide at times.)
 
Thanks Lew, just my lowly Nex-5n with a Helios 44m-7 (a russian CZ biotar knockoff).

I tried using an autofocus lens that day but being able to zone focus with the manual lens is something I just can't do without. I have respect for those that do street photography with auto-focus, it's actually much harder, imo.
 
I rarely try to conceal the fact that I am shooting on the street, regardless of the gear that I'm carrying, big or little. I've had the great fortune to strike up interesting conversations with people that I never would have otherwise had the pleasure to meet.

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Apart from the guy on the bicycle, I had a decent conversation with all the above.



Apologies Lew if this post is an infringement on your thread. I just thought it part of the discussion about "in your face" versus "stealth" shooting styles.
 
I rarely try to conceal the fact that I am shooting on the street, regardless of the gear that I'm carrying, big or little. I've had the great fortune to strike up interesting conversations with people that I never would have otherwise had the pleasure to meet.

Apologies Lew if this post is an infringement on your thread. I just thought it part of the discussion about "in your face" versus "stealth" shooting styles.

Not at all.

I espouse a different style, not exactly 'stealth' but, most of the time, just not intruding into the scene.
 
Not at all.

I espouse a different style, not exactly 'stealth' but, most of the time, just not intruding into the scene.
Thanks. I'm not exactly 'in your face' either. Ususally pretty cordial. Sometimes I need to converse, sometimes other have the same need.
 
I usually do not need an articulated screen as I do not want to conceal the fact that I am shooting either, simply because I do not feel I am doing something wrong. But there were rare occasions when I simply had no nerve to shoot openly, looking through the viewfinder - like with this girl. We were sitting on the opposite benches quite close, and I admit - I used the articulated LCD pretending that I am just checking and deleting my files. Was this shot worth it? I do not think so, even though I have somehow kept it..

$Girl on the Bench web.webp
 

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