How I can Get Best polar alignment ?
If you are using the iOptron device, then see page 9 of the instruction manual posted here:
https://ioptron.com/images/up/SkyTracker_Manual.pdf
First... all of this assumes that the tripod is actually perfectly level. I hate the bubble levels built into many tripods. When I use a quality level and compare to the bubble level, I find the tiny little bubble levels can really be off by quite a bit. I carry a small 2-axis spirit level with me and ignore the ones built into the tripods (line up three identical tripods in a row and you probably won't get the same reading out of any two of the built-in bubble levels.)
Assuming the tripod is level... now it's time to do the precise pointing.
Notice they have an iPhone app (you could look this up yourself) to determine the position of Polaris relative to the north celestial pole. Through this particular reticle finder (because there are lots of variations on this) they have (a) a center point, (b) an inner ring, (c) an outer ring, and (d) they label the ring like the hours on a clock (12 hours) all going around the center. The inner ring is for use in the northern hemisphere to locate the north celestial pole (ignore the outer ring if you are in the northern hemisphere).
Polaris circles the north celestial pole (NCP) traveling around the path of that ring. You know the device needs to pointed somewhere around that ring... but don't know exactly where. The phone app provides that info for you.
They mark the ring with the hours (1-12) just like a clock (in reality astronomers use a 24 hour "sidereal" day, but they are simplifying this for you.)
On the screen of the phone (on page 9) they show that Polaris should be located at the 10:24 position and they also show a tiny green "+" mark at that point. The idea is that you would look through the polar finder scope (that small black tube on the corner of the SkyTracker) and position it so that Polaris is at that point. (Don't forget... tripod must first be level or all of this is meaningless.)
You know have a pretty good alignment. With big telescopes we fuss quite a bit more than that and perform a precise polar alignment using either drift alignment or other alignment software.
For short duration exposures with wide angle lenses you won't see much (if any) star trails caused by mis-alignment. The wider the angle of view of the lens and the shorter the exposure time, the less important it is to have a critically accurate polar alignment. This mostly becomes important when you either want long exposures or you want to use a fairly long telephoto lens to image deep sky objects in detail.
The alignment aids vary by scope but most of these things either include (or have an optional accessory) that helps you create a pretty good polar alignment.