Tokina 16-28mm f/2.8 Opera lens

scaryloud

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So Tokina is releasing their 2nd Opera lens rehashing the veil flare/halo monster 16-28mm. It is not nearly as disasterous as their 24-70, but still an egg layer when compared to rivals.

What's new? New focusing mechanism, new body and feel. Same clutch focus system for some reason. Same number of lens elements and groups. Same bulbous front element.

What I find disparaging is the setup seems identical internally. The aspherical elements are in the same position in the setup as the old. The coated lenses are also in the same position as the old lens.

The old lens stated SLD coated lens. The new one states 2 different types of SLD coated lenses. The problem is here. Are the coated lenses and combinations effective at combating ghosting/flare and other anomolies? I'm hesitant to hope for the best. If you look at the Tokina 24-70mm, flare is not even remotely controlled. That lens uses the same coatings in the lens diagram as the new 16-28mm Opera lens.

So far, the only field test available is from B&H Photo. The problem is you have no idea if the photos are heavily edited, cropped, or doctored to hide issues. The only picture with the Sun in or near the lens focal plane is a single shot nearly dead on. While it is a challenge, it's not the same as the Sun in the corner of the frame or just outside of the frame.

At $699 it's a compelling choice. What are your thoughts??

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Lens hood, coating, glass and internal baffles.
If the coating formulation, glass formula and baffles are changed, you won't see that on the element layout.
Just wait for the reviews.
 
BTW, you have to do your part to block out the light source. Don't rely totally on the lens.
I was shooting today with a 12-100 pro lens. At 100mm focal length, the 12mm lens hood was useless, as it was way way too short to do any good at 100mm. The image was low in contrast from the effect of the sun hitting the lens. When I put my hand up to shade the lens, it was fine.
 
I understand that, but at wide angles especially more than 100 degrees there are real issues with one's hand getting in the frame. Really good coatings on Tamron and Sigma really help to assist with that.

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Alright, so I got the lens and put it through it's paces. The lens is trash. I don't mean I dropped it, I mean it's worthless, completely.

The good..

It's SOLID. I mean it has good weight to it. The focus ring is a bit stiff, but not cumbersome.

Good looking lens.

Coma is well controlled, but there's a fly in that ointment.

The bad...

Lens flare, it's all over the place. No matter the light source really. It comes in at all angles even when the light source is 90 degrees out of the frame. I'm not just talking about dots and beams, but the veil flare is bananas. Will completely blow out a shot. The built in lens hood is really just for looks. Trying to use my hand is marginally useful, unless I want my hands in the photos. The flare on this lens is worse than the last generation lens.

Contrast is really bad in daylight situations. Took some photos on a bright, but overcast day. Tree branches disappeared almost completely when shot against the clouds behind them.

But wait, there's more...

Quality control is bad at best. Got a lens, decentered. Lens was soft on left side. Replaced it. Second lens was worse than the first. This time the right side was not just softer, but was so bad the images had almost double vision.

Field curvature is quite pronounced at 16-18mm. Most people buy a wide angle lens not for the 28mm or even 25mm, but for the 16-18mm range. Welp the field curvature is quite noticable, especially when trying to shoot stars or get your corners sharp. Stars on the edges are more dashes than points. To bring up the corner sharpness you either have to manually focus somewhere between center of lens and edges. Stopping down to F/11 or smaller also works but diffraction starts becoming an issue.

Returned the lens and went Tamron 15-30mm G2 instead...for a whole lot more money. Such a pity. I REALLY tried to love this lens.

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