Toning Paper

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photoman

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Thanks for the info :D .

I would like to thank you for all your help it was very insightful.

And thank you for your time.

I just like to find out all the possible hazards and dangers before i start to work with anything so noting bad happens :shock:


I just need a better ventilation system for my dark room so the fumes arent so bad and then ill start some toning.

Thank you again for all your help :D !!!
 

andylou17

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hi motcon, i don't really understand this part.


kodak fix process:

develop paper -> how long? if i used kodak polymax developer for paper
5 seconds in an acetic acid bath
~1:30 in fix (for how long?)

thanx
 

havoc

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Development is 2 minutes at 70 degrees f in polymax developer.

The fix time is supposed to be 1 minute 30 seconds.

Of course your real fix time depends on a bunch of variables. temp, water source, how much hardener etc.
 

havoc

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Motcon, i would love to see one of your sepia blue split tones. i have only alittle experiece with blue tone, but it seemed hard to work with because it worked so fast.
 

motcon

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Havoc said:
Motcon, i would love to see one of your sepia blue split tones. i have only alittle experiece with blue tone, but it seemed hard to work with because it worked so fast.

i'll have a bunch this weekend; saturday is a print marathon day.
 

Floyd

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your prints will end up shiity if your toning RC not FB, trust me FB has a far more stable effect and it's archival. I've been taught never to tone RC.
 

motcon

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Floyd said:
your prints will end up shiity if your toning RC not FB, trust me FB has a far more stable effect and it's archival. I've been taught never to tone RC.

strange teacher you have.

toning (a post development process) chemically reacts with the silver, not the paper.

the rc vs fb debate was over years ago and there is not a credible stitch of evidence that definitively points to rc or fb as being better than the other.
 

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