In udomxai , China is 18 miles west and city is 20% chinese.
got a guide to take us 22 miles north on a horrible road- half bumpy thin skin of tar and pebbles over dirt, half horribly rutted dirt. That road turned out to be the only road to the northern part of the country. Then he turned onto an even worse dirt and rutted road, much narrower than our driveway and we went 22 twisty, turning, dusty miles, climbing to 6000 feet, the road ran along the ridge line of the hills and the drop off was hundreds of feet.
We got to an Akha hill tribe village which is very rarely visited by Westerners. The little kids ran screaming when they saw us and children from 6-11 would look then turn away and never come near.
One little girl was so hysterical that her mother and father got angry and accused Saul of letting evil spirits into her. My friend is 6'1, pretty big and has lots of white hair. (The Akha believe in spirits and ghosts), so the village elder ordered a small ceremony and Saul had to tie a cotton string around the baby's wrist, then all was well.
Their village is built on a very steep hillside with all the huts, jammed in, getting around means scrambling down or up random dirt or stone steps. They grow millet or corn on these incredibly steep hillsides, depending on rain for water. Cows, pigs, goats, guinea fowl wander at will. This is a very hard life.
An old man, with reddish lips and blue stains on his teeth from smoking opium, asked our guide if I had any medicine; they see medicine as a totem rather than anything with power in itself. I gave him an empirin and he seemed happy.
I had the chance to buy a fried rat for lunch but passed. Food has been amazing. Everything is totally fresh.
Bus tomorrow to a small river town to relax for a couple of days. Have been walking 6 or 7 miles a day, eating only two meals, so I've dropped some weight and feel terrific.
Lew