Trouble with dogs

[dylanstraub]

I take my dog to the local dog park all the time. I've been trying to fine tune shooting in this environment but I still need some help. Depending on the time of the day and where the sun is in the sky it can be very hard to control the light. I'd like to use my speedlite to freeze the action and fill the light where needed but I have no idea what settings to use. I'm going to post some recent shots and I'd like some critique as well as any suggestions you may have. For these shots I used my 60mm lens with a polarizer. Would a ND filter be a better choice here? Also, feel free to edit anything you see here as long as you tell me what you did.
1

2

3

4

5

 

[Nikon_Dude]

On number 3 the shutter speed is too slow.

4 would be a cool shot if the person wasn't in the picture and the paws weren't cut off.

 

[Fern]

First the good stuff: Your focus is very good, it looks like your use of the flash is taking care of the action blur. You have an eye for what you are trying to capture which is very evident in shots 2 and 4 where you caught emotion in the shepherd. Some of the others are more of a composition issue than equipment.
First I would make goals of what you are trying to learn, is it how to blur the background, get a tight shot, a great composition etc, then work on that one item for a while. There is so much to learn about all the technical stuff! I would even leave my camera on auto until you got more of a feel of following the action and a great composition.
Shot #3, try getting down at eye level (watch out for dog poop, yuck) to make the action more alive. Also with a fast dog like that use a faster ISO (film speed) on your camera like over 800- I see you have both the digital and the film bodies.
Last comment would be that you can either whip out 100-300 lens, or set your camera to aperature priority mode (AV on the Canon) and use the little wheel on the top to set the number smaller like around 10 or something. Either of these will make a nice blurry background and isolate your subject for the shots like #1 and 5. Keep at it!

 

[dylanstraub]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Unfortunately on these shots I wasn't using a flash because the light is very contrasty. There are some tall tree's in the park so you get slivers of light and shadow here and there. I'm not sure if I can address that issue with my flash for fear of over exposing the subject. I guess that one will take time and experimentation. I'm surprised that you recommend aperture priority instead of shutter priority as I always assumed shutter control was better with a fast moving subject. I'll experiment with the 100mm prime as it's faster than the zoom.

 

[vtf]

Using your speedlite will help you control the lighting. Start with a shutter of 200, f5-6 and iso at 100 (outdoors and in daylight) to start and adjust as needed. I would shoot in tv mode so your shutter stays a constant speed with a single subject or use manual settings.

 

[dylanstraub]

Vtf thanks for the info. Would you suggest I use the 100 mm prime or the 60mm? The 100 is an EF and the 60 is an EF-s. I'm not quite sure how much is cropped out with the 100 so that's why I ask.

 

[vtf]

Vtf thanks for the info. Would you suggest I use the 100 mm prime or the 60mm? The 100 is an EF and the 60 is an EF-s. I'm not quite sure how much is cropped out with the 100 so that's why I ask.

The distance it appears you're shooting I've used a 50mm. The 60mm would be good, I've never used a 100mm. Just test it out with the distance you're shooting. Remember if you use your speedlite it will not reach necessarily 35-40' (not sure of its specs).
On cloudy days or those that cause harsh shadows you can remove some of that by using you flash. Meter to the light which will cause the subject to be dark, then the flash will brighten up the subject. It does take practice. Good Luck.

 

[dylanstraub]

Thanks again for your input. I can't wait for a sunny day to get back out there and start shooting.

 

[Fern]

VTF- I'm confused, wouldn't a fast iso of 800 or more, and an aperature priority mode set at around 10, provide a blurry background and still stop action?

 

[vtf]

VTF- I'm confused, wouldn't a fast iso of 800 or more, and an aperture priority mode set at around 10, provide a blurry background and still stop action?

Take your camera out on a sunny day, place on auto and generally your settings will be shutter at 500 with an av at f8 and ISO at 100. Now I shoot digital so this doesn't include film. This will freeze the motion. If you want the background to blur with motion then pan the camera with the animal and reduce the shutter to 250. Adjust as needed.
If you want to blur background without panning then open up aperture to 3-4 (this wont keep multiple subjects in focus).
Harsh shadows or in deep shade you can use flash and reduce settings back to around 160, f5-6, ISO at 100. You can also use reflectors to help.
Actual settings will vary some depending on the exact situation. Thats why I use manual but there's nothing wrong with TV or av mode but understand how the exposure triangle is affected by each mode.
On a sunny day a person has the best scenario because the lighting available, its all about lighting.
I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time.
Keep at it. :thumbup:

 

[Fern]

Cool. So I am spending a lot of time trying to figure out the matrix, or triangle as you call it, on my own. Is there one available or do I have to figure all this out using wonderful wize people like you (feel sufficiently buttered yet?)
There is the "what are my variables" and "what do I want to end up with" questions, but this is going to be a lot easier on this old brain if there is a chart to work with...

 

[ZacFreeland]

Lol! One is an awesome action shot!

 

[vtf]

There is a book by Bryan Peterson "Understanding Exposure" that may help you.
Here's a link to start you.
Learning about Exposure – The Exposure Triangle
You can Google "Exposure Triangle" and get limitless links.
All based on how much or less light enters the camera.
Aperture-allows light onto sensor. Widen, or open aperture and more light enters, blurs background more. Close aperture and less light enters, background clearer.
Shutter-Slow shutter allows more light to enter over time, moving subjects blur. Faster allows less light to enter over time, moving subjects are frozen.
ISO-I believe is the sensors sensitvity to light, increase it and noise from the sensor increases but images are brighter.
Each of the 3 affects the others. These are simplified terms.

 

[Fern]

Thanks Vince - I love your willingness to help out!