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VEGAS! GRAND CANYON!!

polock

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Ok so we are heading out to Vegas for a week coming up in mid june. I am going to hit up all the canyons while i am out there. I really should get a polarizing filter before then right? any other filters i should look at for this trip?
 
I inquired the other day about getting a polarizer for my Sigma 10-20 and was advised against it. Do you agree?
 
I inquired the other day about getting a polarizer for my Sigma 10-20 and was advised against it. Do you agree?

Yes. A polarizer and a wide angle lens don't work properly together at all. You get a very blotchy sky.

Have fun!
 
maybe grad nd filter as well but definately the CPF
 
Don't forget the lens hood. Wide angle + sun even off to the side a nice amount = unwanted lens flare. Pick your time of day carefully for best results.
 
I inquired the other day about getting a polarizer for my Sigma 10-20 and was advised against it. Do you agree?

B+W has a slim polarizer that is recommended for wide angle lenses. I got it to use with my Sigma 10-20 and no vingetting, no blotchy sky, so far so good.
 
Vegas/Grand Canyon, shooting daytime landscapes, cpf is absolutely necessary.
Like Polock I am heading west in a week and will be shooting the Grand Canyon and southern Utah (landscape city). This is clearly an opportunity for a super wide angle lens. If cpf is absolutely necessary it would seem someone would make one for a wide angle lens.
 
B+W has a slim polarizer that is recommended for wide angle lenses. I got it to use with my Sigma 10-20 and no vingetting, no blotchy sky, so far so good.
Good find Rubbertree, but who is B+W?
 
Do not expect miracles from the filter. Heat haze is very heavy at high altitudes in the summer. IMO is going to shown up even with the filter.
 
I'm also going to Utah this summer, and I plan to take a lot of shots with my soon to have 10-20mm and my 18-55mm lenses.

I just want to recap this thread, so which filters would be necessary for Utah shots in the summer?
 
Another caveat:
polarising increases the contrast of a scene. The contrast will soon exceed your sensor's dynamic range capacity, and so your image will not be able to reproduce the original scene's contrast anywhere near faithfully.
If you shoot RAW, and bracket, you will be able to recover much of the original contrast range in post production. And even give you the option to apply HDR techniques.
 

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