When is the Samyang 14mm f/2.4 coming to Nikon?

[nerwin]

Still though, $329 for a 14mm 2.8?! Don't tempt me!

I'm quite tempted, but since I don't anticipate using it much until this summer, I can hold out...

Same here. But how much difference is the 14mm 2.8 vs my 16mm f/4? Probably not worth it honestly.

 

[crimbfighter]

Still though, $329 for a 14mm 2.8?! Don't tempt me!

I'm quite tempted, but since I don't anticipate using it much until this summer, I can hold out...

Same here. But how much difference is the 14mm 2.8 vs my 16mm f/4? Probably not worth it honestly.

Depending what you do with your 16mm f/4, perhaps it's not worth it for you. For me, the extra stop, or 1 and 1/3 stop of light transmission in the case of the f/2.4, is quite important for astro photography. And 2mm at the wide end makes a notable wider FOV. In the end, everybody's needs are different, so it certainly wouldn't be a necessity for everyone.

 

[crimbfighter]

Four new Sigma lenses to be announced soon: 135mm f/1.8, 14mm f/1.8, 24-70mm f/2.8 and 100-400mm f/5-6.3 | Nikon Rumors

I think my dilemma may have just been solved! I have been extremely happy with Sigma's Art series, I have had the 35mm f/1.4 since shortly after it was introduced and think they have done a great job with the Art series, and now they're likely releasing a 14mm f/1.8. Sign me up!

 

[hamlet]

All the primary camera brands are under attack from these very competent third party brands. So glad photographers have more choices.

 

[naiku]

The biggest reason I want the large aperture is for astro photography, and with poor corner performance it causes smearing of the stars. Stopped down to f/2.8, the Irix is still outdone in corner performance by the old

How do you like the Samyang 14mm 2.8 for astrophotography? I just picked one up pretty cheaply to try my hand at astrophotography, using it on a Nikon D3200 and am hoping to try it out tonight. Just curious what your thoughts of it are? I had been looking at the Tokina AT-X Pro 11-16mm but the Samyang popped up new in box for a price that was too good to pass up (figure if I need to sell the Samyang I can easily make my money back). The biggest issue I appear to be having so far (could be due to FX vs DX) is that I cannot set the lens to f2.8 as the camera body tells me "Lock lens aperture ring at minimum aperture" although it does work using the job wheel to adjust the aperture..... could be just me being a newb!! Thanks.

 

[crimbfighter]

The biggest reason I want the large aperture is for astro photography, and with poor corner performance it causes smearing of the stars. Stopped down to f/2.8, the Irix is still outdone in corner performance by the old

How do you like the Samyang 14mm 2.8 for astrophotography? I just picked one up pretty cheaply to try my hand at astrophotography, using it on a Nikon D3200 and am hoping to try it out tonight. Just curious what your thoughts of it are? I had been looking at the Tokina AT-X Pro 11-16mm but the Samyang popped up new in box for a price that was too good to pass up (figure if I need to sell the Samyang I can easily make my money back). The biggest issue I appear to be having so far (could be due to FX vs DX) is that I cannot set the lens to f2.8 as the camera body tells me "Lock lens aperture ring at minimum aperture" although it does work using the job wheel to adjust the aperture..... could be just me being a newb!! Thanks.

I don't actually own the 14mm f/2.8. I was waiting for their new 14mm f/2.4 to come in the Nikon mount. I know several people who have the 14mm f/2.8 and they are all very happy with it for astrophotography. The downside I see for you is that on a DX camera like your D3200 it will have the FOV equivalent to that of a 21mm lens, so you're losing a lot of the advantage of the UWA lens. I have owned the original Tokina 11-16mm back when I was shooting DX, and it was a very good lens. It was quite sharp and controlled coma fairly well, especially for the price. I would actually suggest you go with the 11-16mm, but not because that lens is better than the 14mm, instead because shooting DX, you will find the 11-16mm DX lens more useful because it's optimized for DX. Your 14mm FF lens on a DX camera will give you a FOV of 94 degrees (compared to 115 degrees on an FF body) where as with the 11-16mm you will have a FOV of 84 to 104 degrees on your DX body. That's 10mm wider on the wide end, which is a significant difference on the wide end of the spectrum.

The issue you're having with the aperture is actually not an issue, that's the way it's supposed to work. You could set the aperture manually with the aperture ring if your camera did not support aperture control in the body, but yours does. Therefore, by setting the lens at it's minimum aperture, the camera body will hold the aperture fully open as to allow the most light through the view finder to help with brightening up the image you see through the view finder, then as you press the shutter, the body stops the aperture down to wherever you have it set. This is exactly how all modern lenses operate. The aperture only closes at the time of capture, or when you're in live view or using the DOF preview feature on cameras that have it. If you set the aperture ring at f/4, for example, then it's essentially like setting a limiter and the camera body could never get the lens to stop down below f/4. To properly use this lens with your camera body, always set the aperture ring to f/22 to allow the body to control the lens aperture through the entire range, and select your aperture using the scroll wheel.

 

[naiku]

Thanks, I played around with the 14mm last night a little, although not for long since it was cold! I already knew going into it that on the DX it would be the equivalent of a 21mm lens. While I like how the pictures came out, I think I will try to sell the 14mm and pick up the Tokina 11-16mm for the extra 10mm.

Figured out the aperture issue about 5 minutes after I posted, it was a little confusing at first. But, I noticed when I clicked the jog wheel the aperture changing on the display, a couple test shots and noticed it working as it should be.

I attached a couple of the pictures I took, these are untouched jpegs, just shrunk a little to attach here (will switch to RAW when I get a little better at it!!). Let me know if you see anything obvious that I should try to fix. Both were taken at f/2.8 with an exposure time of 25 seconds. The first at ISO 400 the second at ISO 200. I am not 100% sure where the orange glow comes from, the closest town is about 8 miles away from me, although there are a couple houses back in the woods in the direction I was pointing.

 

[goooner]

Well, you won't be getting 10mm wider, you'll get 3 (FOV 4.5). You will have the ability to zoom though

 

[Timppa]

I'm thinking about getting the Tamron 10-24 HLD, freshly released a few weeks back!
It is not a 2.8, but the tokina 11-16 had 3.2 t-stops on my D7100.
the Tamron 10-24 will be F/3.5 at 10mm and It is said that the the t-stops have been improved a lot compared to its predecessor (and the t-stops on that was 4.0).
So I'm roughly guessing I will maximum lose 1/2 a stop only, but gain 1mm on the wide end and 8mm on the long end, and It happen to be most of my pictures are taken in that reach.
problem is that in the USA they sell the lens for 500$ or about 460€. I understand you need to pay taxes in the end on it, so it might be close to 500€ after all.
But in Finland they sell it for 700€ (760$)!

So I'm just waiting it out a bit more