Wildcat: Building a 4x5-eos adapter.

Discussion in 'Alternative Techniques & Photo Gallery' started by Soocom1, Apr 29, 2019.

  1. Soocom1

    Soocom1 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    P.S. The opening of the adapter from the mount forward to the back of the film plain of the view camera was cut to approximately 55 degrees. So there will only be a "tunnel" effect as a result of the tube extension and depth of the Canon itself.
    This should be very minimal.


     
  2. Soocom1

    Soocom1 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    AND, I have been exploring the idea of mounting a mirrorless to this beast.
    Anyone with experience with the Canon EFM system?
     
  3. Tim Tucker 2

    Tim Tucker 2 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    I understand what you are saying, (and please consider using a bag bellows it will probably allow you to focus the 135mm lens), but...

    I still don't understand what you are trying to achieve. If you want full use of movements than wouldn't it be simpler to place a piece of film in a dark slide? I stopped chasing the idea of full movements in 35mm format a long time ago, and even though I've seen a remarkably elegant solution to it in regards to a modified bellows mount connected to an older shift lens have still to be convinced that it has any merit.

    The advantage of the 35mm format is it's speed, portability and inherently larger dof for any given shutter speed at the expense of resolution vis-a-vis sensor size. The advantage of LF film is it's resolution and it's inherent weaknesses are the lack of dof and speed, (both shutter and actual set-up to taking the image).

    The system you are creating seems to me, to be blunt, to combine the weaknesses of both systems whilst retaining none of the strengths. Though it sounds like a really neat idea, (and it does - the thought of all that freedom with a digital readout), it's a bit like a technical solution to a problem that doesn't exist. There are few wide angle landscapes that don't have sufficient dof in 35mm photography (that aren't cliches), and few action/fashion/reportage shots that would benefit from it. I have thought about this myself but have always come across the same problem, that the 35mm format does't suit or even need full movements.

    Just some thoughts, and tempered with one personal observation; that though I've been thoroughly seduced by the full movements available in LF, I've never come across a situation where I thought they would benefit 35mm photography. I have always found that it would obscure your view rather than enhance it, the exact opposite of what it achieves in the larger formats.
     
  4. Soocom1

    Soocom1 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Why did Hillary (not the first wife) climb Mt. Everest?

    Why did we go to the moon?

    Because we can.
    Its a challenge.
    No one looses anything except me and my time.

    Besides its breaking rules and finding out what can be done.
     
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  5. Soocom1

    Soocom1 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Ok..
    so a few mechanical aspects had to be overcome.
    This included the fact that the mount was too close to the rear standard in order to mount the digi.
    So to solve this I had to order a set of macro tube extensions in order to fit the camera on.

    That came in and voila... The camera actually attached!



    So I set it up to point up a road to see what it would initially do.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Now there is substantial flare I am getting off the bat but I can work with that later.
    The set up was easy though cumbersome.


    I also noticed that the lens was not hitting as sharp as I would like, and because of the macro tube extension, the register distance was not as far as I would like, so some of the distance is lost for adjustments.


    So for the initial shots, there is a goodly amount of out of focus aspect and some adjusting and blackening of parts needed.

    Because the Calumet has the spring type back and not a Graflok, the camera did tilt the ground glass area back some amount. I eventually had to attach a bungee chord to keep it closed.


    I also realized that if I want to have a closer registration distance that I will have to use the shorter FD lenses (like the 135, but will need a substantially recessed lens board to achieve this.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Soocom1

    Soocom1 No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    So here are the actual images:

    [​IMG]

    Shot No. 1...
    Just trying out.
    Note the severe out of focus.

    [​IMG]

    This is the fence with the standards all aligned.

    [​IMG]

    here is the fence again:
    [​IMG]

    With this setup:

    [​IMG]

    Again:
    [​IMG]

    In the opposite direction:

    [​IMG]
     

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