Automatic vs. Manual?

I should add that I'm STILL practicing! I'm by no means a snob--it's just that if I'm going to be a half way decent photographer--I want to understand the process thoroughly (and to me, that's half the fun!). :)
 
I always shoot manual. For whatever reason I can't stand shooting in Av or Tv where the camera is making half the decisions for me. For most of my photography (wildlife) I usually go for f/8 or f/7.1 on the 55-250 to get enough DoF, and then I'll just set the SS as high as I can for it to meter properly, if I cant get the SS I want, I'll boost the ISO as a last resort. But still, its been manual all the way for me since my second month of having the camera, I just like being 100% in control ;)
 
Full auto you've almost no exposure control barring exposure compensation - same for sports, landscape, macro, portrait, no flash etc.. All modes commonly found on entry level DSLRs. All other models will only have the full auto green mode.

What I think you mean Graystar are the commonly called semi-auto modes. Aperture priority, shutter priority and program mode. Each of which offering you partial camera automation of balancing the exposure based on the meter reading, but whilst giving the photographer direct control over the key setting for the shot (be that aperture or shutter speed) and the ISO (though on newer cameras you can nose use auto for that as well).

There is a massive difference between the full auto and the semi-auto modes and they should not be confused.
 
Isn't this thread like 40 million years old?

I suppose I shouldn't complain since at least someone didn't start a NEW one, but...

I would think that in SEVEN pages it would have been sufficiently answered and not need to be discussed further.

Hey, I have an idea... why not make a FAQ? Yeah? Idea?
 
I bracket a lot. Auto is OK for some things. It is fast but not always right on.
 
Always shoot manual, remember settings for indoor venues that I shoot in alot, although they do change depending on the time of day, windows etc. For the most part it will come with experience, like everything else.
 
I really don't know why people get so hung up on the manual/auto stuff.

Shoot in whatever mode YOU want and whatever gives you the results you want/need.

I shoot in manual, aperture or shutter priority and "shock horror" full auto occassionally. It depends entirely on the situation and what I want to do.
 
I really don't know why people get so hung up on the manual/auto stuff.

Shoot in whatever mode YOU want and whatever gives you the results you want/need.

I shoot in manual, aperture or shutter priority and "shock horror" full auto occassionally. It depends entirely on the situation and what I want to do.

People very easily get sucked into the idea that photography is only about the settings you choose ... and sorta forget that the settings you choose are important only in how you employ them to get the composition and exposure that you need to portray the image, message and feelings that you desire.

There's no doubt that the settings are therefore important... but they are not the primary concern.

Meh.

I guess in the end you need to learn this stuff in order to make it happen... it's just frustrating to see people not understand that every tool available to them is a valid tool and usable at the right time... it's not just "this one or that one".
 
Automatic is a good place to start for anyone who is just getting their feet wet. But, when you get more serious about photography, switching to manual is the way to go. The biggest problem with any pre-set mode is that they tend to generalize the settings. While this can be helpful in some cases, the more automation we use the less control over every aspect of the shot we will have. All in all, I personally use the manual setting all the time. I do not however, ever use manual focus. I leave that in automatic as that it takes to long to get the right focus using manual and there is a good chance you might miss the shot you're looking for.
 
I don't wanna understand! Just give me the friggin formula to the perfect exposure! And I need a condensed version of that Tutorial thread. Too much information.




J/K.


I learned with the instructions on the Kodak box. Then I got a 35mm slr with a meter that worked, but never gave the correct answer. Compensated using a Lunasix handmeter. Exposed thousands of feet of Tri-X, Extachrome, etc. mostly correctly for the subject at hand.

Now I have a consumer-level DSLR and... a good in-camera meter, and lots of dial options. The choice of tools to use depends on the situation.

Static light, relatively even tonality, OCF, macro: Manual.

High variability, but DOF control important: Aperture priority.

High variability, but shutter-speed control important, Shutter priority.

In the end, it's about using the right tool to get to the result you want in the most efficient (quick) way possible.
 
Automatic is a good place to start for anyone who is just getting their feet wet. But, when you get more serious about photography, switching to manual is the way to go. The biggest problem with any pre-set mode is that they tend to generalize the settings. While this can be helpful in some cases, the more automation we use the less control over every aspect of the shot we will have.
If the meter is working, then you have the exact same amount of control over exposure in aperture priority, shutter priority, and P mode that you do in manual mode. There's no advantage to manual mode when the meter is able to function.

Well, yes and no. Say you're shooting two people in a room, one wearing dark clothes, the other wearing light clothes. Suppose that the light is constant. When you're shooting the person in dark, the meter will assume less light, and will increase the exposue. The opposite of the person wearing light. So you will get overexposure with one, under-exposure with the other. It's much simpler to detemine the proper exposure based on the key area (the faces, I would imaging), and as long as the light does not change, keep that exposure constant. If you're doing that in manual, no problem. If you're in Av, you'll have to continually adjust the exposure compensation to override the meter's reading of the situation - unless you are using the spotmeter off the face. So there is a practical difference between using the different modes.
 
Going to have to explore using the AE lock... I've used it for limited circumstances, but not quite in the way you describe. Maybe with my equipment it will work, maybe it won't - will just have to try and see.

Totally agree about the difficulty using Manual with changing light conditions such as moving clouds.
 

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