Not sure about my lens

[Pratoman]

Thanks guys (and gals).
I walked around Manhattan today shooting, mostly in Central Park. I still don't really know what I'm doing, but I think I got some decent shots. And some not so good. Based on the comments above from simply barb, I think a lot f it is me.not the lens.8 need to practice practice practice. And read. Then practice some more.
My trip is next week, and I don't want to make any rash decisions, like I did with the Tamron in question, because I was going south in a few days. So worst case, if I can't get up to speed, I'll just put the camera on auto when in Alaska and Vancouver, to give myself the best chance of shots that work. And I'll continue to learn when I get home.

I sent a link to my pics to my son who is somewhat into photography. And I'll try to upload some pics here if I can figure it out over the weekend.
I really appreciate the advice.
Thank you

 

[Pratoman]

So here is a link to my smugmug page. WWW.kennyg.smugmug.com.
If anyone has the time or inclination, look at the gallery titled NYC & Central Park. After reviewing the pics, I am starting to think, not so bad (to my amateurish eye, of course). I especially like pictures number 22 & 39, the way I used the reflection of the water.

But the main thing is, aside from any cc, which would be welcome, is this lens doing the job for my Alaska trip, and is there anything I'm doing wrong.
The other galleries are there for you to browse as well if you are interested, but the one titled Roslyn Park, was done with my old 18-55mm that came with the camera.

I'm using the Central Park gallery, so you can focus on one set of pictures and it is the most recent.

Any thoughts appreciated, eventually I learn how to upload just a couple of photos to this website for critique, but for now, this was the fastest way for me to get you guys some shots to look at

 

[Rob5589]

To my very untrained eye; images are soft, colors muted. There is one at 18mm (#9) that shows a bunch of distortion on the right side of the image. There are images at long focal distances that are soft/out of focus/shutter speed too slow for the movement. The rule of thumb is to keep your shutter speed at or slightly above the focal length. In many you are at say 270mm but a shutter speed of 1/100 as with the horse & buggy shots. Speed it up and you would probably get rid of that softness/blurriness.

Hopefully others with far more experience will come along with more info.

 

[Pratoman]

Very helpful thanks answering on my phone now so I'll keep it short. Curious how do you know what the focal distance on the lens is? Am my missing something I don't think it shows on smugmug

Also for just about all of these I'm using Aperture priority so the camera controls the shutter speed should be doing something differently most of these are still shots.

I got the book, "Understanding Exposure, my son gave it to me a while ago. I think its time to read it. Hopefully it will help.

 

[Rob5589]

If you click on the "i" in the lower right corner below the pic, the exif, image data, will pop up.

 

[Pratoman]

Didnt know that, thanks thats very helpful.

So to expound on what i said earlier, i always thought, and was taught, that its a good idea to use Shutterspeed priority for action shots, fast movement, etc. and to use Aperture priority for everything else. Your comments, Rob are making me rethink that. Any thoughts?

Also, do you let the camera figure out ISO? I was taught regarding ISO, that its the last thing to change.
Im going to take a look at your comments as i look at the shots mentioned, i think that will help mucho. And from your comments i am still thinking, that there is a lot more i can do, before i make a judgement on the lens.
Thanks

 

[Rob5589]

Again, not a pro so take that for what it's worth I generally use "A" most of the time myself. I wouldn't just say "S" is for "action" shots, more so for shots with movement. Like the horse and buggy shot. While it may be moving slowly, if you focus then shoot but the shutter speed isn't quick enough to capture at that focus point, then the focus point has changed thus creating your blurred shots. All it takes to blur the shot is a minute amount of movement, especially at longer distances.

You could try a tripod or monopod to help stabilize your shots. Do some Googling for camera holding techniques. I thought it was kinda goofy when I first started; just hold the camera and push the button. But, using the correct hold does make a considerable difference, it did for myself anyway.

I am using auto ISO, with a max of 1600 I think. I find it works well for my usage and ability.

 

[Pratoman]

Thanks Rob. I like the general rule of thumb that you gave me on shutter speed needing to more or less match the focal length. Is there a similar rule of themb for Aperture, when in A priority mode? I find that to be such a guessing game.

I looked at the pictures with your comments, and i get what you are referring to about shutter speed and movement

I also got the book "Understanding Exposure" and i think its time to read through it. My son gave it to me as a gift.

 

[Rob5589]

Great book, have it myself. Need to re-read it. Nothing on A priority but, take a look at dofmaster.com, it may help you out.

 

[Pratoman]

I guess providing a link, was not a good idea, as i only got feedback from one member - thanks Rob.. In the future i will figure out how to upload one or two pictures for comments. For now, I'm busy learning by reading some of the other threads here, and reading one of the books i bought, "Nikon D3200 - From Snapshots to Great Shots". When i am done, i'll read "Understanding Exposure", then I'll review the books and practice practice practice., shoot shoot shoot. Hopefully i wont squander an opportunity in Alaska.

 

[Rob5589]

Don't take it personally. My suggestion is to take more shots than you normally would. The beauty of digital is the ability to keep or toss pics with a simple click. Play around with different settings, too. Not every shot has to be "blow up" or "magazine" worthy to be a rememberance of a great trip.

 

[jaomul]

I will probably echo most of what was said. I have seen great shots from superzooms and I believe the 18-270 to be highly regarded for what it is . However while great shots are possible, these optics have so much in them to do such a big range that they have to suffer somewhere. This is normally in focus speed and optics. They will likely be grand in good light for easy enough shots, but when the light gets challenging they wont hold up to lenses with less range in same price point.

I do think as well though that there may be some quality issues with this lens. If you bought it new and after some practice its still not great maybe try and get another. It is easy to blame equipment and most often the equipment is not to blame, but I have seen good reviews of this lens a few times, and also users who were not happy with it at all.

Either way a 2 lens set up though more inconvenient would probably be a better option, and the 18-105/70-300 set up is a good option. I quite like the 18-105, and a s akit lens think it covers a lot, chances are with this set up you wouldn't be changing lenses as often as you think. YMMV

 

[Pratoman]

Jaomul, thanks for the advice. I'm going to stick to this lens for this trip. When I return, as I progress on the learning curve, I'll probably go to a 2 lens system, I can probably sell the lens on EBay at some point, and I only paid $339 net for it as Tamron was running a special $100 rebate at the time.

@Rib, thanks, not taking it personally at all, just thinking I shouldn't have asked anyone to critique me by looking at an entire gallery of photos.

 

[Dave442]

Regarding carrying the camera around, in Alaska I would just carry the camera and the Tamron, in NYC or other similar locations I like a messenger bag or similar to drop the camera in to keep it out of site when not actually using it. In Alaska I have usually had poor weather at some point on many days and usually have a plastic bag handy or one of the disposable Rain Sleeves.

 

[astroNikon]

OP - it takes time to learn the "Exposure Triangle"
and right now it seems that the ISO, Aperture and Shutter are basically terms that require more experience.

The Aperture controls the opening in the lens which allows light to come in. But more importantly it controls the "Depth of Field" of the focused subject. Depth of Field (aka DOF) is how deep the field of focus is. For example, at an aperture of say f/1.4 you focus on a ruler only an inch would be in focus, The rest blurred. Whereas at f/8 - four inches may be in focus.

Shutter speed determines how you stop movement. Something moving faster will require a faster shutter speed.

ISO - controls how sensitive the sensor is to light.

Over time you'll become more accustomed to what aperture (for DOF) and what Shutter Speed (to compensate for movement) to use.

Then you can use AUTO ISO to compensate balancing out the exposure triangle.

You may be better off in Shutter Priority and Auto ISO. Then make sure you pick the proper shutter speed and let the camera do the rest.

About 99% of the time I'm in Manual to control the Aperture and Shutter and use AUTO ISO with a maximum amount set. This allows me to get the proper Aperture and Shutter for the situation I'm in. But with this you need to better understand Aperture and Shutter speeds for the various scenarios you are in.

Super Zooms are nice to have for those occasions where you want to carry one lens for everything. There's been plenty of threads where other people are looking for the convenience of one lens. Yes, you could have 2 bodies, or this or that but the situation is you currently have A camera and you want to use that camera rather than investing more and carrying more, which looses the convenience aspect of it.

I have a 28-300 lens on my list to get sooner or later, for the same convenience aspect of one camera - one lens simplicity.