What lights for a main and back light?

[aliciaqw]

DH is going to build me a small "studio" in the garage (he likes projects and I like projects that benefit me...haha).

I'm mostly going to practice portraits of my family members. I think I'm going to have one main light with a softbox or umbrella, use a reflector for a fill light, and then have a hair/back light.

What kind of lights should I get? I want to stay within a few hundred dollars.

If there is a thread like this already posted, feel free to post a link. I tried a search but was unsuccessful. Thanks!

 

[Big Mike]

If you are going to be shooting people, then I'd suggest some type of flash/strobe lighting, rather than a continuous type of lighting.

There are plenty of 'cheap' studio strobe kits floating around on the internet. I don't know much about them, but for the most part, they look cheap and their low price doesn't inspire confidence.

HERE is a decent one-light studio package. A couple lights will probably be over your budget, but that might be better than buying something cheap and realizing that it work work for you in the long run.

Also, when setting up your garage studio, I'd suggest situating it sideways to the door so that you can open the door and have a large source of natural light coming into the side of your set.

 

[aliciaqw]

If you are going to be shooting people, then I'd suggest some type of flash/strobe lighting, rather than a continuous type of lighting.

There are plenty of 'cheap' studio strobe kits floating around on the internet. I don't know much about them, but for the most part, they look cheap and their low price doesn't inspire confidence.

HERE is a decent one-light studio package. A couple lights will probably be over your budget, but that might be better than buying something cheap and realizing that it work work for you in the long run.

Also, when setting up your garage studio, I'd suggest situating it sideways to the door so that you can open the door and have a large source of natural light coming into the side of your set.

I was looking at those Alien Bees after reading so much about them online. I think I'm going to go with one of those.

I'm hoping a reflector will do for now for fill. Maybe I will hold off on a backlight and just invest a little more into quality.

 

[Big Mike]

Also, many people will tell you, it's often best to start learning lighting with just one light anyway. As you know, you can easily use a reflector for fill, so it might be much more simple to stick with one light until you actually need a 2nd light.

 

[Derrel]

I would suggest looking at two of these 150 watt-second FlashPoint 320A monolights, which come with 10 foot air-cushioned light stands and a 40 inch convertible umbrella, for $139 with free shipping. The price is hard to beat, and these have user-replaceable flash tubes and have been sold for going on 10 years now. http://www.adorama.com/FP320MK.html

As far as a garage studio setup goes...I'm of the opposite opinion as Big Mike; I think you really want to shoot the length of the garage and forget about natural light for the most part, since in a typical garage (a 2-car garage) the camera-to-subject distance when photographing across the short dimension of a garage is very short, and that often forces you into using unflattering short focal lengths, which causes a lot of problems with background control and makes shooting full-length photos a major PITA, with focal lengths dropping into the very ugly 18-35mm focal length ranges, and also forces you to shoot with your subjects close to the background, which again, causes problems. So, for a "typical" garage studio setup, I think it's better to have it arranged so that the backgrounds are at the entrance or garage door end of the garage, and you can position the camera at the "house" end of the garage, so that you can get the camera as far away from the subjects as possible, so that you can use telephoto lens lengths to control backgrounds.

 

[Big Mike]

As far as a garage studio setup goes...I'm of the opposite opinion as Big Mike; I think you really want to shoot the length of the garage and forget about natural light for the most part, since in a typical garage (a 2-car garage) the camera-to-subject distance when photographing across the short dimension of a garage is very short, and that often forces you into using unflattering short focal lengths, which causes a lot of problems with background control and makes shooting full-length photos a major PITA, with focal lengths dropping into the very ugly 18-35mm focal length ranges, and also forces you to shoot with your subjects close to the background, which again, causes problems. So, for a "typical" garage studio setup, I think it's better to have it arranged so that the backgrounds are at the entrance or garage door end of the garage, and you can position the camera at the "house" end of the garage, so that you can get the camera as far away from the subjects as possible, so that you can use telephoto lens lengths to control backgrounds.

All good points.
I was picturing the garage I had at my previous house, it was pretty much square, so there was no length to be gained by putting the door at the front/back.

 

[keith foster]

In your garage set up you can probably move your backdrops from one wall to another depending on what you are shooting each time.

One of the things that I quickly learned is that even a pretty large garage becomes pretty small when you start setting up a studio and no matter how big my space is there will come times when it just isn't big enough.

You will have a lots of fun with a couple of lights and a backdrop. Looking forward to seeing your 1st shots.

 

[KmH]

Here is yet another decent, inexpensive starter light kit:

Calumet Genesis 200 2-Light Kit - CF0502K1 -

You could also visit http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html and read through each article.

 

[c.cloudwalker]

Although I think Derrel's description of a "typical 2-car garage" is outrageously funny since there are, just about, as many different types of garages as there are houses, I definitely agree that you should set up your background at the end of the long side.

If you garage door (s) is in that dimension, I would set up the background at the opposite end. Simple reason: if you want to use a longer lens than your garage allows (and daylight is not a problem), just open the door and move away from your background.

Now, to answer your actual question. ABs are great as starter strobes. You mention a few hundred dollars. How much is that exactly? No matter what, you can start with one, make yourself some reflectors and start experimenting. If you have a flash unit, you can use that as your second light for a while.

Unlike Big Mike I don't believe in starting with one light only. Unless that is all you can afford. With just the one strobe you will quickly run out of possible set ups and get frustrated. I started with 3 and a bunch of reflectors (mostly home made) and that soon became NOT enough.

If you can afford more than one, go for it. Don't get a dozen either as, if you get more serious, you will figure out the problems and limitations of AB strobes. 3 of them, you'll be able to use for quite a while even if you do get more serious.

Have fun.

 

[aliciaqw]

Oh wow, thanks for all the info guys! I'm really excited to get things movin'! We just started looking for a new house to buy so the garage is going to be temporary. DH said I can have a room to do whatever I want with-- and of course it's going to become my "studio"-- even if in the end it's just for taking pictures of my baby boy

Would I be better off getting two of those Flashpoint monolites for $280-- or are the Calumet ones worth the extra $100?

I'm assuming I could just experiment with how I want to arrange them as far as using one for key light and the other for either fill or backlight, right?

Also, I read somewhere that you're better off not using a backlight on small children. How do you guys feel about that?

I really appreciate all the advice! Now I've got to look into backdrops and those contraptions to hang them one. Ooohh, and maybe a trip to Home Depot or Lowes to get some flooring and a floor board. And I'm sure I can find some fun props at those discount stores like Marshalls, TJ Maxx, etc. This is fun!

Any books out there I should read about studio lighting for portraits? I've seen a few but wondered if any come recommended. I don't even know how these lights work...lol.

 

[aliciaqw]

One more thing...

Umbrellas or softboxes? Does it really matter if people are my subjects? I've read that umbrellas are bad if you're photographing shiny objects like bottles and glass.

 

[KmH]

Umbrellas tend to scatter the light a bit more than softboxes do.

All umbrellas are round. You can get softboxes that are rectangular or square giving more control of where the light is going.

Umbrellas tend to be easier to setup and are much less expensive than softboxes.

 

[aliciaqw]

Umbrellas tend to scatter the light a bit more than softboxes do.

All umbrellas are round. You can get softboxes that are rectangular or square giving more control of where the light is going.

Umbrellas tend to be easier to setup and are much less expensive than softboxes.

Gotcha, thanks!

In all my searching online I've seen mostly softboxes in the pictures people post showing off their home studios.

Thanks again. I feel much more comfortable now picking things I "need".

 

[aliciaqw]

If I bought one of those starter kits, what else do I need to get it functional?

 

[Big Mike]

I'm assuming I could just experiment with how I want to arrange them as far as using one for key light and the other for either fill or backlight, right?

Yes, absolutely.

Also, I read somewhere that you're better off not using a backlight on small children. How do you guys feel about that?

I wouldn't say 'better off'...but I think the issue is that small children don't sit still...and they may not be in the right position for the backlight to be effective. But there is no reason not to try it if you think it will look good.

Umbrellas or softboxes? Does it really matter if people are my subjects? I've read that umbrellas are bad if you're photographing shiny objects like bottles and glass

As mentioned, umbrellas tend to spread the light all over, which isn't a big deal if you are shooting on a light background, but if you are trying to shoot on a darker background, especially in a small space, then the light may bounce all around and put too much on your backdrop. A softbox keeps the light to just one direction, which helps you to better control the light...however, they are a lot more expensive than umbrellas and most of them are a lot harder to set up and take down than an umbrella.
They both do the same basic job though, which is to soften the light.

If I bought one of those starter kits, what else do I need to get it functional?

The first thing is that you need a way to trigger the lights. Most strobes will come with a cord...but your camera may or may not have a sync port to plug the cord into. If your camera doesn't have the PC flash sync port, then you will need a hotshoe adapter, something like THIS. However, many of us have found that it's easier to work with a wireless trigger system. There are several options, ranging from $40 to several hundred. Check out THIS one.

It won't be cheap, but a really good tool to help you out with your studio lighting, will be a flash meter. I recommend THIS one or THIS one. These will allow you to precisely measure your lighting, which then allows you to set up lighting ratios (main/fill/back) and find the proper exposure settings for the camera.