What mode do you shoot in?

[DarkShadow]

Manual Mode,auto ISO always for wildlife, Manual mode,manual ISO For longer exposures at Night or bulb mode.Use aperture priority often to depending on what I am shooting. shutter priority I never touch it.

 

[AlexGavillan]

So when you guys are talking about EC are you adding a stop or removing (if that's the proper term) sounds like it's better to not blow out your highlights, or again is it dependent on what you're doing .

Or is it a stop either way depending on what you're seeing on the camera and histogram?

Thanks!

 

[john.margetts]

I add one stop of exposure. If you are shooting Raw you have quite a bit of latitude and for wildlife (which is what I use EC for) there is often a lot of sky in the image causing the camera to under-expose somewhat.

 

[jcdeboever]

So when you guys are talking about EC are you adding a stop or removing (if that's the proper term) sounds like it's better to not blow out your highlights, or again is it dependent on what you're doing .

Or is it a stop either way depending on what you're seeing on the camera and histogram?

Thanks!

Yes adding or removing stops. I use it to control highlights mostly and can see it right away when they are not blinking in the histogram. The camera often gets it real close so it's a way to fine tune or it is for me anyway. I have mine set on the rear command dial which is not the default place.

 

[Gary A.]

EC is needed for Auto Exposure Modes. If you're in, say Aperture Priority then the EC will adjust shutter speed to over/under expose. In Shutter Priority the EC will adjust the aperture in order to under/over expose. In manual the photog decides between aperture or shutter to attain an over or under exposure.

 

[AlexGavillan]

Thanks guys! Makes total sense for wildlife, or shooting against something pretty bright. I did some practice shooting the other day, just experimenting with all of the different ways people on here shot. I did find that I was nailing exposure a lot better when using one of the priority modes, duh haha. There were a couple times where I was shooting in my garage, out towards the sun and it was exposing for the scene and not my daughter, but that was easy to adjust for.

Hopefully today, ill get out of the backyard and take a walk downtown and shoot some more with all of these new tips and tricks.

One from yesterday, you cant tell since its in B&W but when I shot this my daughter was a silhouette and the background was properly exposed... Adjusted in LR but I like it in B&W haha

 

[Gary A.]

Alex, (I can call you Alex? ), You need to understand how a light meter works. A basic light meter reads for "Medium Gray". If you fill the viewfinder with a white wall and center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray. If you fill the viewfinder with a black wall, center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray. If you're using a gray card, then a light meter will be spot on. Otherwise, the meter is more of a guide than law. The meter gives you medium gray and you need to compensate accordingly. The modern digital meters, vis-a-vis metering modes and complicated algorithms, makes metering more accurate for general photography. If you want to get together and shoot something PM me, we can meet halfway.

 

[jcdeboever]

Alex, (I can call you Alex? ), You need to understand how a light meter works. A basic light meter reads for "Medium Gray". If you fill the viewfinder with a white wall and center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray. If you fill the viewfinder with a black wall, center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray. If you're using a gray card, then a light meter will be spot on. Otherwise, the meter is more of a guide than law. The meter gives you medium gray and you need to compensate accordingly. The modern digital meters, vis-a-vis metering modes and complicated algorithms, makes metering more accurate for general photography. If you want to get together and shoot something PM me, we can meet halfway.

Do it Alex! He is a master.

 

[AlexGavillan]

Alex, (I can call you Alex? ), You need to understand how a light meter works. A basic light meter reads for "Medium Gray". If you fill the viewfinder with a white wall and center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray. If you fill the viewfinder with a black wall, center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray. If you're using a gray card, then a light meter will be spot on. Otherwise, the meter is more of a guide than law. The meter gives you medium gray and you need to compensate accordingly. The modern digital meters, vis-a-vis metering modes and complicated algorithms, makes metering more accurate for general photography. If you want to get together and shoot something PM me, we can meet halfway.

I learn all these concepts, read the articles watch the videos, and then when I go outside to shoot....it goes out the window haha. I def need to practice more on things that don't move, ie,. It my child I'd love to meet up and shoot sometime. Like I said, I don't have anyone that is into photography as much as I am local, so I welcome the opportunity and appreciate you taking your time, even just to offer, thank you!

Alex, (I can call you Alex? ), You need to understand how a light meter works. A basic light meter reads for "Medium Gray". If you fill the viewfinder with a white wall and center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray. If you fill the viewfinder with a black wall, center the needle, the unadjusted image will be medium gray. If you're using a gray card, then a light meter will be spot on. Otherwise, the meter is more of a guide than law. The meter gives you medium gray and you need to compensate accordingly. The modern digital meters, vis-a-vis metering modes and complicated algorithms, makes metering more accurate for general photography. If you want to get together and shoot something PM me, we can meet halfway.

Do it Alex! He is a master.

Indeed!! Gotta get taken to school

 

[Rick Waldroup]

Aperture Priority with center-weighted metering. I have shot this way since I bought my first Nikon F3. Before that, it was in manual.

I have shot this way for decades. I changed nothing when I went digital. I use only one focus spot- the middle - and recompose after focusing, if I need to.

I shoot mostly street and documentary stuff, so this system has always worked well for me.

However, I just recently ventured back into film photography. I recently acquired an 8x10 pinhole camera and plan on doing some type of B&W street photography with it. In the near future I hope to be posting some scans of the resulting 8x10 contact prints.

 

[zombiesniper]

Outside the studio

99% Manual with AUTO ISO and spot metering, use EV Comp if I know the camera isn't going to calculate exposure properly (Shooting anything white or black). 1% manual ISO as well.

In the studio

Manual

 

[Fujidave]

On my old Canon gear it was both Aperture and Manual. Since moving to Fuji it is always full manual now, but when I get my new lens I might go back to aperture.

 

[AlexGavillan]

Thanks guys!! So much good info here, I love it.

 

[BrentC]

I shoot mostly wildlife and a lot of the time you need to be quick so I don't like bothering with too much control. So for the most part I shoot in Aperture and Auto-ISO w/minimum shutter speed set and spot metering. I have two custom settings that I mostly use for wildlife, makes it very quick for me to go from still to action, one for still which I set minimum shutter to 1/500 and one for action/bifs that I set to 1/2000.
This allows me to control aperture with my thumb and EC with my trigger finger and not worry about shutter. Having an EVF with live histogram and blinkies allows me to adjust EC on the fly to get the exposure I need. Of course I still screw up more than I like.
I'll go to Manual when I need to be more critical in my settings or if I have the time to make adjustments.

 

[shadowlands]

Aperture Priority 90% of the time.