Jamigre =
Here is the graded test, the *OKs* are my professors responses.
1. How do you check to see if the film is
> actually going through the camera after
> you put in a new roll?
> With an older style mechanical 35mm SLR the rewind knob should rotate as the
> film is advanced. Modern electronic auto-focus 35mm SLRs and medium format
> SLRs normally won't function if the film is not advancing properly.
OK
>
>
> 2. Which step (of the ten steps) in
> developing film is critical?
> Developer
ok
>
>
>
> 3. And what are the (three) critical
> measures?
> Temperature, time, and agitation.
ok
>
>
>
> 4. How do changes in these (above)
> effect the film?
> More temp, more time, more agitation usually results in more contrast and a
> denser negative. Less of these things results in the opposite.
ok
>
>
>
>
> 5. List the F-stops normally found on
> the average lens, in order (but not
> for a Zoom lens).
> f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22
ok
>
>
> 6. Which F-stop which lets in the
> most light.
> f/2
ok
>
>
> 7. What shutter speeds can you use
> for held-held camera use?
> Use a shutter speed that is the reciprocal of the focal length or faster
ok: numerically "equal" since most people talk about 60th or 250th of
a second as if they are whole numbers. But technically you are most correct.
>
>
> 8. What shutter speeds can you use
> with an electronic flash? How do
> you determine that for _your_ camera?
> For a focal plane shutter you need to be at the flash sync speed or slower.
> This is usually marked on the shutter speed dial, and it's in the manual.
> Leaf shutters sync at all shutter speeds.
ok - shees you looked this up on the net?
>
>
>
> 9. What determines how much light
> reaches the film? (three things)
> Shutter speed = time and aperture (f/stop) = intensity
2/3 haha - everyone fails to think of "available light"
>
>
> 10. What should you avoid metering?
> (give a couple of examples)
> Things that are very light or very dark, unless you understand how your
> meter works, and then you'd have no problem
ok - but keep "light objects" more in mind. "overall dark scenes" are
difficult to meter.
>
>
>
> 11. What sort of thing would be best
> to meter in a subject?
> The most important thing. Hopefully it's middle gray
no. the most important dark areas you need to record. Almost always the
shadowed areas. the rest will take care of itself.
>
>
>
> 12. If your camera's meter suggests
> F-16 at 1/500th of a second, what
> additional f-stop and shutter-speed
> combinations will let in the same
> amount of light?
> f/4@1/8000 = f/5.6@1/4000 = f/8@1/2000 = f/11@1/1000 = f/16@1/500 =
> f/22@1/250
ok - super camera, heh. have you considered f:2.8 at 1/16000?

>
>
>
> 13. If you want the background out of
> focus (for example, for a portrait),
> what f-stop(s) might you select?
> f/2
ok
>
>
>
> 14. (For the above) What else could be
> done to keep the background out of
> focus?
> Use a longer focal length or decrease subject to camera distance.
ok (images taken with different FL lenses, so that they present the
subject at the same size, will have the same DOF at the same f-stop. Thus
using a 90 mm lens, and backing up to fill the frame, will get the same
results as a 50mm lens closer up. Perspective will change, however.)
>
>
>
> (end)
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