6-month exposure

Just curious... but what's the connection to pin hole camera's and / or long exposures?

Pinhole needs much longer than normal exposure times due to the extremely small apertures (f/180 and smaller).
 
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Ahh... I didn't click the link until just now.
 
I want to know what kind of film he used that didn't suffer reciprocity failure and could still record photons after being exposed for 6 months.

Did he paint the inside of the can black?
 
I believe that "reciprocity failure" really only refers to exposure accuracy for shorter exposure times. For example, you can be accurate at 1 second exposure, but maybe not at 5 seconds. No need to worry about 6 months. If you're off by a few weeks, so what, but you'd need really slow film for that. And yes, the inside of the can would be painted "flat black."

Pinhole Photography is a lot of fun. Here's a good resource for pinhole:
Welcome to the Pinhole Resource
 
Wow. This is fascinating. Although I did make a pinhole camera when I was in art school (a long time ago :lol:) I didn't realize there is so much interest in this. Thank you all for this great thread and links.

For anyone just wanting to give it a shot the cheap way, mine was made of a cardboard box sealed by black tape. The shutter was black tape punched with a sewing needle and the shutter cover was black tape also. The edges of the pinhole were not the sharpest but it worked.

Had to be loaded in the dark and re-sealed every time but for an exercise it was not a big deal. And it was fun.
 
I too made a funky pinhole camera out of an 8x8 inch cardboard box, sprayed flat black inside and punched with a tiny nail for the pinhole, then covered by black tape. I loaded an 8x10 piece of sheet film in the back, just curved it against the back, then sealed everything up with black tape and went outside, pulled the shutter tape, and made a picture. It was like the birth of photography -- really funky but fun!
But soon enough I bought better pinhole cameras and even had a cabinet maker make a couple for me in 5x7 and 8x10 sizes. Here's a photo I got with my 3 inch focal length Leonardo 8x10 pinhole last February (you can buy this camera at Pinhole Resource -- I just added a filter holder, red filter, and lenscap for shutter). It's of the (busted out) North Shore Yacht Club at Salton Sea, CA -- this building was designed by the mid-century modern architect Albert Frey and is situated on the shore of an inland sea in the middle of the desert. The exposure time is 3.5 to 4 minutes at about 8 am and those are moving clouds on the left side. Clear sky on the right. The 3 inch focal length is "extreme wide angle" on 8x10 -- I'm standing about 15 feet from the building here (not the 50 it looks).

SaltonSeaYachtClub1Feb2009Final.jpg


Pinhole photography is a lot of fun. Exactly the opposite of all the tech advances in recent years. And you can get great photos! You can see detailed pictures of my cameras here:
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...7-my-5x7-8x10-pinhole-cameras-plus-photo.html

Have fun!
 
^^^^^^

I went through the thread about your cameras and the pinhole site both very interesting. Just offering a cheap way to try it out.

I will most probably build a pinhole camera in the near future as I am trying to think of different ways of using a darkroom with NO enlarger :lol: and that is a very affordable way of doing 8x10 negs.

Just thought of a question for you (I am new to digital photo): the photos that you show, did you scan the print or the neg? Can you even turn a neg into a positive with photo software?
 
Cloudwalker: I may have scanned a print or two, but I routinely scan negatives on my Epson Perfection V750 Pro scanner. This is a high quality flat bed scanner that does both reflective art and negatives. Epson provides various neg holders, and also a way to scan large format negatives via a wet scanning plate, but when I do 5x7 or 8x10 negatives I just put them face down on the glass platen of the scanner. Ordinarily, you scan emulsion side up in some kind of holder, because if you don't have a separation of neg surface and glass platen you'll get "newton rings" -- However, there is a way around this. You put the emulsion side of the negative face down on the glass platen, and you place a piece of anti-newton ring glass on top of the negative. This also has the benefit of keeping it totally flat. Don't ask me why this prevents newton rings, but it does. You can buy a piece of anti-newton ring glass in a size just slightly bigger than 8x10 from Better Scanning. They also sell improved neg holders for other sizes of negatives. I bought their neg holder for 2 1/4 (I shoot Pentax 6x7 film) and it's ten times better than the cheap plastic that Epson provides. So, the easy solution for 8x10 negs is emulsion side down on the scanner platen, and a piece of anti-newton ring glass on top of it. And when you scan the negative, you'll get the positive image automatically, or if not with your scanner, you can easily convert it in PhotoShop. Of course when scanning emulsion side down, the pic will be backwards, but that's easily remedied in PhotoShop by Image=Rotate Canvas=flip horizontal. Here's a link to Better Scanning
Custom film holders for Agfa, Microtek, Canon and Epson film scanners.
 
^^^^

Thanks for the tutorial. Really appreciate this. This must be my lucky day :D

So, of course, I have another question about scanning negs now. But I don't want to turn this thread into a scanning techniques one so, if you don't mind, I'll PM you. Unless you think it can be of interest to others and we may get away from the original subject. My problem has to do with glass negatives...
 
Talk about resurrecting a dead thread. How slow of a film must that be, 1 ASA?
 

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