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A new Nikon V. Canon question. But not what you think.

I HATE those things.
Frequently, when shooting low light shots at our workshop, someone's AF light comes on a ruins the shot! MF is a much preferable solution in low light...

The AF assist light can be shut off, in fact in AF-C mode it doesn't come on. This feature is customizable and lets you still use AF which can actually do a better job in very low light than manual focusing since the low EV ability of modern cameras is quite remarkable.
The AF assist light can easily be turned of on my cameras (it generally is) but turning it off on someone else's is much more difficult.
The low EV ability is one of the reasons why focusing in low light is easy - unless you're still stuck with 1960's-70's technology :biggrin-93:
 
The 1Ds only had that problem with a specific function on (I don't remember which).
As stated before though, the 5D, 70D, 10D and even the little rebel all seem to have their own minds on specific shots.
Including when in full manual.

Now here is where I am wondering.

does Nikon have the same issue?

Is there some kind of overriding aspect in the Nikon system that can cause this issue, or is all the Canon world of "we know better" programming?

All Canons are probably the same. Even on manual they will NOT shoot unless they have either acquired focus if the lens is set to AF or the camera is set, in the menu, to shoot without acquiring focus first!
I think if the lens is set to manual focus the camera will shoot whenever you press the shutter regardless of the mode set.
SS
 
I HATE those things.
Frequently, when shooting low light shots at our workshop, someone's AF light comes on a ruins the shot! MF is a much preferable solution in low light...

The AF assist light can be shut off, in fact in AF-C mode it doesn't come on. This feature is customizable and lets you still use AF which can actually do a better job in very low light than manual focusing since the low EV ability of modern cameras is quite remarkable.
The AF assist light can easily be turned of on my cameras (it generally is) but turning it off on someone else's is much more difficult.
The low EV ability is one of the reasons why focusing in low light is easy - unless you're still stuck with 1960's-70's technology :biggrin-93:

Yes but regardless of the amount of light there has to be some contrast in order for the camera to lock focus or the lens will just hunt.
Even in bright light is you are pointed straight at a featureless, smooth, white wall, or any color, the camera cannot lock focus without some bit of contrast to see an object and lock onto it, irregardless of the tech involved.
SS
 
I think I've run into this issue a couple of times. I remember having this issue way back with my 7D, and more recently with a 1DX. It's very annoying when it happens. I can't remember the exact fix, but it may be because I use BBF I don't seem to run into this issue now
 
But recently I finished up a set of photos for my niece and toward the end of the shoot (the reception of her wedding done in a dimly lit area) some of the final photos were total garbage. Out of focus, focused in the wrong spot, etc.

But while doing this I remembered a specific issue I have always had with the Canon line from the 1Ds to the 70D.
There are times when in any mode, from full on auto to full manual, the friggin thing simply wont fire. Push the shutter all I want. Slam it, hit it, yell at it, threaten it with a shotgun, nothing works.
it simply won't shoot.
I missed quite a few shots because of this issue.

If you can divorce autofocus from the shutter button, either with back button autofocus, or by interrupting shutter-button-AF with a back button configured for AF-OFF, may it alleviate this issue?
 
If you can divorce autofocus from the shutter button, either with back button autofocus, or by interrupting shutter-button-AF with a back button configured for AF-OFF, may it alleviate this issue?

It definatley will, using my 5DIV and BBF I can trigger the shutter even with the lens cap on while the lens has been focus hunting.
 
It definatley will, using my 5DIV and BBF I can trigger the shutter even with the lens cap on while the lens has been focus hunting.

Sounds like that may be the best solution then, especially if an AI-SERVO mode will let the camera keep trying to focus but doesn't stop the shutter by not relying on an autofocus "lock".
 
It definatley will, using my 5DIV and BBF I can trigger the shutter even with the lens cap on while the lens has been focus hunting.

Sounds like that may be the best solution then, especially if an AI-SERVO mode will let the camera keep trying to focus but doesn't stop the shutter by not relying on an autofocus "lock".

Yes but the goal is not to trigger the camera but to be in focus. What's the point of being able to snap a dozen completely OOF shots that are taken while the lens was at the extreme ends of it's focus hunt?
Maybe is the pic is better than noting?? Like you were gonna miss your child's first step but at least you got an unrecognizable blob of somebody?
SS
 
It definatley will, using my 5DIV and BBF I can trigger the shutter even with the lens cap on while the lens has been focus hunting.

Sounds like that may be the best solution then, especially if an AI-SERVO mode will let the camera keep trying to focus but doesn't stop the shutter by not relying on an autofocus "lock".

Yes but the goal is not to trigger the camera but to be in focus. What's the point of being able to snap a dozen completely OOF shots that are taken while the lens was at the extreme ends of it's focus hunt?
Maybe is the pic is better than noting?? Like you were gonna miss your child's first step but at least you got an unrecognizable blob of somebody?
SS

The problem with Focus priority as I see it is when you are shooting with a lens that will give you enough depth of field to cover a focus "error"... let me say that I am using an 85 mm lens at f11 with electronic flash in the studio. If the camera says the focus is not good at F 1.8 that does not really matter since I am shooting at f11 and we'll have eight inches or so of depth of field
 
You'll need to forgive me for saying this, but..

When I want to take a photo of a specific science, I want the friggin thing to work!
Not fight it, set up some set of predefined parameters, or menu hunt for the "right" combination of button pushing to take a damn photo!


Like I said, with the Fuji I have NO PROBLEMS!
I am seriously considering dumping Canon completely over this.
 
You'll need to forgive me for saying this, but..

When I want to take a photo of a specific science, I want the friggin thing to work!
Not fight it, set up some set of predefined parameters, or menu hunt for the "right" combination of button pushing to take a damn photo!


Like I said, with the Fuji I have NO PROBLEMS!
I am seriously considering dumping Canon completely over this.

I'll PM you with a mailing address to send the Canon gear to so that it doesn't go to waste... *grin*
 
You'll need to forgive me for saying this, but..

When I want to take a photo of a specific science, I want the friggin thing to work!
Not fight it, set up some set of predefined parameters, or menu hunt for the "right" combination of button pushing to take a damn photo!


Like I said, with the Fuji I have NO PROBLEMS!
I am seriously considering dumping Canon completely over this.

I'll PM you with a mailing address to send the Canon gear to so that it doesn't go to waste... *grin*
right...

Its free.
Just pay $2400.00 USD shipping and state, local, UK VAT tax (because I can), a small processing fee of $400.00 USD, shipping insurance that will only be $859 USD and a fee just because of $89.51.

:)
 
It definatley will, using my 5DIV and BBF I can trigger the shutter even with the lens cap on while the lens has been focus hunting.

Sounds like that may be the best solution then, especially if an AI-SERVO mode will let the camera keep trying to focus but doesn't stop the shutter by not relying on an autofocus "lock".

Yes but the goal is not to trigger the camera but to be in focus. What's the point of being able to snap a dozen completely OOF shots that are taken while the lens was at the extreme ends of it's focus hunt?
Maybe is the pic is better than noting?? Like you were gonna miss your child's first step but at least you got an unrecognizable blob of somebody?
SS

No one said they need to be completely out of focus. You can use it with wildlife with manual focus over ride on a lens and a high frame rate to let the subject pass through the zone of focus, similar to using a macro and shooting a burst while moving the lens. A lot of widlife shooters have their priority on release first. Also there are degrees of OOF, and depending on image use a slight focus error may not impact too much.
 
I have had Nikons since the mid-1970s and AF ones since the F801 / N8008 came out in the 1980s. I currently use a D750 and a Z7, I have never had such a problem. Rather than generalizing to the whole brand here (Canon) this may be related to your particular model and your use of it.
 
If you can't get it figured out, you might try renting a Nikon or other brands to make sure they will not have similar issues.
 

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