A noticeable difference?

[Marc32]

I'm about to upgrade my Panasonic FZ100 to a Nikon D5100. I've done a fair amount of research here and other sites that offer detailed reviews about the camera's performance. The issue of lenses is another subject. I know everyone says kit lenses are a good start, but prime glass offers far superior image quality. Is the 18-55 that comes with the 5100, and is not considered prime glass, an upgrade over what I've been getting out of the FZ100? I know a lot of people have issues with the Panny's IQ, but in the right light and right setup, I really don't find it that bad. Low light and noise are another subject though...

FWIW, I will add the 35mm 1.8 with the order. All advice I've gotten say this is an amazing lens for the money and will blow the FZ100 out of the water. However this does not offer any zoom, which I kind of like. The 'zoom with your feet' theory applies and will be a good lesson on learning to compose a shot properly.

So, the $100 toward the kit lens isn't a significant investment though I'm wondering if I'd find consumer glass to be an improvemt? If I'm going to do it, I want to do it right. Do I go body only and use the 35mm for a while and put the $100 toward another prime or buy the kit? A majority of my shooting is landscapes, HDR, long exposures, and I'd like to try my hand at astrophotography.

 

[Rephargotohp]

If you shoot landscapes you probably want something wider than the 35mm..closer to 18, If you don't have much to spend right now, get the kit.

Just so you know, "Zoom with you feet" is a myth. a fixed (prime) Lens has the same angle of view whether you are 1 foot or 20 feet from your subject

 

[MLeeK]

The 18-55 will probably get you as good as or better than what you are getting currently-****once you learn how to use your camera****
Notice the stars? Yeah, a DSLR isn't going to give you much if any improvement until you really learn about it and how to control the image yourself. There are MANY who go from an advanced point and shoot and have a HUGE disappointment at first with a DSLR.

 

[Marc32]

No doubt I have a learning curve ahead of me. There is a class right in town that offers 4 3hr sessions called 'KickStart DSLR' that should be good help. They have 'intermediate' levels after that that I would look to take as well.

I do have Panorama Maker 6. Is it possible to stitch photos with the 35mm prime supposing I wanted something wider and keep the same image quality that lens offers? I'd like to add the Tonkia 11-16 as a landscape lens at some point.

I'm surprised to hear you say 'zoom with your feet' is a myth. I thought it related to composition? Rule of thirds or fill the frame?? If you can't take the easy way and zoom in, you had to walk closer. Or the other way to back up to get the shot in the frame? I hope they cover this stuff in class!!

 

[mrpink]

Kickstart DSLR = RTFM.

 

[MLeeK]

Zoom with your feet being a myth is the literal interpretation of the words. You aren't zooming if you are using your feet. Zooming requires the lens' angle of view to change. The lens never changes it's angle of view. Instead you change your position.

 

[LightSpeed]

Which also can fk your composition which the stellar photographer MLeek failed to mention.

 

[Nikon_Josh]

Which also can fk your composition which the stellar photographer MLeek failed to mention.

Standing in the same spot and simply zooming can also majorly cause composition problems seeing as it can give your mind the impression you do not need to seek a different perspective... that's why primes are recommended to newbies as they offer a good learning curve.

 

[Marc32]

Kickstart DSLR = RTFM.

You're going to have to help me on the 'RTFM'

Standing in the same spot and simply zooming can also majorly cause composition problems seeing as it can give your mind the impression you do not need to seek a different perspective... that's why primes are recommended to newbies as they offer a good learning curve.

This is probably the correct way to express the theory I was going for. Get in the habit of moving around a bit until you have the 'ah-ha' moment in the viewfinder.

 

[Gaerek]

Just so you know, "Zoom with you feet" is a myth. a fixed (prime) Lens has the same angle of view whether you are 1 foot or 20 feet from your subject

Leather zoom, or zoom with your feet refers to composition and the ability to change how much of the subject fills the frame. Speaking literally, you are correct; that statement, however, is not meant to be taken literally nor is it meant to refer to the lenses angle of view. It's just meant to mean "make your subject bigger in frame by moving closer" or "make your subject smaller by moving away." It's strictly a compositional tool.

 

[Gaerek]

You're going to have to help me on the 'RTFM'

RTFM = Read The F**king Manual

It usually means, something along the lines of:

"Why are you asking a question here that could be answered by reading the little book that came with your camera."

You'll see it used here a lot of times when people ask questions about how their specific camera operates.

 

[Nikon_Josh]

Standing in the same spot and simply zooming can also majorly cause composition problems seeing as it can give your mind the impression you do not need to seek a different perspective... that's why primes are recommended to newbies as they offer a good learning curve.

This is probably the correct way to express the theory I was going for. Get in the habit of moving around a bit until you have the 'ah-ha' moment in the viewfinder.[/QUOTE]

My point exactly.. some people who bang on about how zoom's are superior tools to a prime for 'many reasons' are the same sorts of people who prefer not going to the gym and sitting playing computer games instead!

A bit of a generalisation I know, but using a prime teaches you not to be a Lazy zoomer whilst teaching you some discipline at the same time, when I first got my 18-55 kit lens I was completely a lazy zoomer. I seemed to think it was adequate to stand anywhere and just zoom.. when using a prime you see straight away that you need to move and adjust your position.. otherwise your shot will be poor! When I started using a prime, I didn't just look and shoot anymore.

I think you will have fun with the 35 1.8 if you decide on it, that is not to say though the 18-55 is not a great buy for the price. I think the 18-55 is great for what it is, a cheap as hell kit lens that gives you alot in return for the small sum of money spent. For a start if you spent the whole day walking around, simply using the 18mm setting. It will teach you some great lessons aswell!

Half of me right now is thinking of selling my 18-55 to fund a flash purchase, but at same time this lens for some reason holds alot of sentimental value to me. Simply cos it has given me sharp contrasty photographs when in theory such a cheap lens shouldn't be allowed to do so! The VR is handy aswell.

 

[bazooka]

Just so you know, "Zoom with you feet" is a myth. a fixed (prime) Lens has the same angle of view whether you are 1 foot or 20 feet from your subject

I think the point of this statement is being missed. If you have a 50mm and you simply back up to twice the distance from a subject, is not the same as using a 25mm from the original position. So if you only have a 50mm prime, you cannot phyisically get the same composition of a scene that you could with a 25mm regardless of where you are standing. A zoom lens gives you a broad range of focal lengths so you have more freedom when composing. It has nothing to do with laziness, or rather, it shouldn't. Unfortunately, some simply zoom in or out as a substitute for standing in the right place and choosing the best focal length to use.

 

[Nikon_Josh]

Just so you know, "Zoom with you feet" is a myth. a fixed (prime) Lens has the same angle of view whether you are 1 foot or 20 feet from your subject

I think the point of this statement is being missed. If you have a 50mm and you simply back up to twice the distance from a subject, is not the same as using a 25mm from the original position. So if you only have a 50mm prime, you cannot phyisically get the same composition of a scene that you could with a 25mm regardless of where you are standing. A zoom lens gives you a broad range of focal lengths so you have more freedom when composing. It has nothing to do with laziness, or rather, it shouldn't. Unfortunately, some simply zoom in or out as a substitute for standing in the right place and choosing the best focal length to use.

I get your point! I really do.. it's a valid point.

But at same time.. I do believe having a specialised wide angle lens, a standard normal prime lens and a telephoto lens are all you need to get every perspective imaginable. I do like and enjoy using mid range zooms.. BUT A mid range zoom is not a necessity in my mind in the same way a wide angle and telephoto are for different compositions. I do agree with the numerous pro's who seem to state that a standard prime can be used as a pretty good substitute for a mid range zoom, if you have a wide angle lens and telephoto lens to back up the standard prime lens that is ofcourse. If I want wide shots, my 10-20 seems to suffice in all but some situations. I don't really feel I need any longer for wide shots.

 

[Marc32]

RTFM---I certainly intend to spend a good deal of time reading the manual of a camera I've never used before to learn all I can about it. Then I will take a lot of test shots and learn even more. Your saying KickStart DSLR=RTFM. I don't see how reading the manual can compare to a good class/workshop with a compitent teacher? The manual will tell you all about the camera. A class will teach you about photography, not to mention good feedback and new perspectives from other students. There is a difference. The best camera in the world in the wrong hands is still just a expensive paperweight.

I also don't see how reading the manual answers the original question: Is consumer grade glass a lateral or improvement to the images taken with the FZ100?

If I'm understanding correct, NikonJosh is saying that with a d5100 a Tonika 11-16, 35mm 1.8 prime, and a 55-200 or 70-300 will round out a good kit? These three in addition to the standard 18-55 that ships with the camera? I have a good tripod already, so add a remote shutter and I'd be happy as a clam?