Discussion in 'Beyond the Basics' started by JustJazzie, Oct 17, 2017.
Hmm.. Im not sure what the GN's say, but my YN560 is significantly brighter in testing.
The reflectors do not add light, they just bounce it, and you will actually lose some light intensity due to bouncing it off your shiny foam.
Another suggestion; mount the one speedlight, and tape the second one to the first. (A Hatlo Tip-O-The-Hat to Braineack for that one!) Then get two (or more) youngsters to "volunteer" to hold your shower curtain about 6 feet in front of the speedlights. The taller ones at the top corners, a shorter one holding the bottom. It won't matter to the light if the curtain is blowing in the wind. Just make sure your speedlights don't get blown over.
I appreciate the idea of putting the kiddos to work, however mine will be at swim lessons and hers will be in the photos. So I have one assistant (the dads brother) to help me during the family portrait,
I could have him hold the foam board and tape the lights together and just bounce off that.
Am I really better off with one brighter light than two less intense flashes?
For what its worth, I've decided to go ahead with this, (sort of)
I used velcro and bungee wrap to connect the flash heads together, and I will bounce them off the foam board.I am taking along the 48 inch reflector for fill light.
And then Im going to ask them to take a quick extra shot to test my DIY modifiers so I know how they will preform in the future.
Thanks for the advice!
just random thought: I've seen neat shots using a single light from behind a subject, where it's shot at a 45° forward across the front of the camera into a reflector/bounce card so it can act as both a rim and key.
Ohh! Thanks for the diagram. Maybe I will give it a go!!
Light from one angle gives you shadows to define contours. This is called "modeling" light. you can certainly use two flashes, but if you put them at equal and opposite angles, they tend to cancel each other out, meaning no shadows at all. That produces a "flat" light and makes your subjects look flat as well. In a studio, a photographer will adjust the power of each light so that the key light and the fill light will not be at the same power level, thus retaining the modeling light and shadow.
So it depends on your spacing plan and if the two lights are set to the same power level or not. Actually, I think one speedlight should be enough power to be your key light, and the other one can be either a fill light or a rim light, or even a hair light if you control where the light goes.
So with only one light stand, set one speedlight on there with a white umbrella (either shoot-though or reflected from the inside) and set the other speedlight on a box, or whatever you have. If you can fire it remotely (slave function) you could ask the extra person to hold the light and simply aim it at the subjects. Just make sure you have adjusted the power levels on both speedlights to create good modeling light.
no idea if it'll work in this situation. when you talked of bouncing into a reflector I thought of it. I'm sure youll make out fine whatever you do.
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