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Another Flash/no Flash test....

I trigger the sb-600 wirelessly with the D90.
The sync speed is 1/200

Okay, someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but if you can't shoot any faster than 1/200 when using your flash, and you're shooting in light that wants probably f/16 or f/11, then I don't think you're going to be able to pull off that short DOF you want, no matter where you put your flash or how you modify it.

This is a crazy thought, but has anyone ever tried using an ND filter in this kind of situation? I mean you'd have to blind your subject with the flash to make it work probably, but is that even reasonable?

The only way she could do it is buy a Phase One with flash sinc of 1/1600, another reason i kept my 1Dmk1 sinc 1/500
 
it is off camera.
I should try to move it back more, but I thought closer meant softer light?
gah this is all so confusing! lol

Closer is softer, and if you move it back its going to have to work harder to light the subject.

The second picture is much more preferable to me without the blown areas. I understand your frustration about the bokeh.

I think your a bokeh addict lol. :lmao: Just kidding. I'm still learning the use/correct use of flash so I share your pain.
 
Here is the final result.

166380_145173458873718_100001431947276_270264_551806_n.jpg


162947_145173485540382_100001431947276_270265_3996602_n.jpg


167393_145173512207046_100001431947276_270266_8029248_n.jpg
 
Awe thats a cute idea, personalized vday cards. My oldest doesnt give out valentines anymore but soon the younger two will be going to school. I like the idea.
 
it is off camera.
I should try to move it back more, but I thought closer meant softer light?
gah this is all so confusing! lol

Closer is softer, and if you move it back its going to have to work harder to light the subject.

Closer is softer because it is larger in relation to your subject. This is why softboxes and umbrellas work so well, they take a small, hard light and make it a large, soft light at the same distance.

Photography is so often about trade offs. Robbing Peter to pay Paul. etc. Being outdoors makes this all the more difficult and often makes the choices for you.








p!nK
 
If she wants to use flash, she cant open up the aperture that much. Its going to be around F8 and F11. The only way to really blur it is to use continous light or reflector.

I don't know if a reflector was used in the first shot... but I was thinking that a reflector would seem to be a simple solution to this problem.
 
I'm surprised no one asked what your flash power was...

I would suggest turning your flash power down if you can, and then opening up your aperture. As I understand it, one step in power +/- is equal to 1/3 stop of your aperture. So you could turn your flash power down, open up your aperture a bit more to get the blurred hearts. A longer focal length would have helped as well, 85-100mm would be great probably.
 
.

This is a crazy thought, but has anyone ever tried using an ND filter in this kind of situation? I mean you'd have to blind your subject with the flash to make it work probably, but is that even reasonable?

That's exactly one of the reasons that they make ND filters. They aren't just for waterfalls...



For what it's worth I much prefer the first photo, even though the exposure is 'right' on the second one it just doesn't look as good. Again goes to prove that there isn't always a clear cut definition of the correct exposure, it is in the eye of photographer.
 
I had almost the exact same problem. When you expose for the background, use flash and have the aperture wide open, you get over exposed. I used several techniques to combat this. I think most or all of them have already been mentioned. One was to use a longer focal length as mentioned by o hey tyler. That helps you get a shorter DOF with a smaller aperture. But if you don't have a high end constant aperture zoom this might not work well.

Also using an ND filter, as mentioned by OrionsByte and fokker. I think that might be your cheapest option. And a good one.

You can also try going with the lowest ISO and bump the AE down a couple stops. That might work. First I'd try the aperture to control DOF, then adjust the ISO and AE way down, hit it with some flash and see if that works out. Or I could be totally wrong :er: But, some of them worked for me.
 
I'm surprised no one asked what your flash power was...

I would suggest turning your flash power down if you can, and then opening up your aperture. As I understand it, one step in power +/- is equal to 1/3 stop of your aperture. So you could turn your flash power down, open up your aperture a bit more to get the blurred hearts. A longer focal length would have helped as well, 85-100mm would be great probably.

Then the background is going to be blown.
 
A ND filter will help in situation like this.
 
I'm surprised no one asked what your flash power was...

I would suggest turning your flash power down if you can, and then opening up your aperture. As I understand it, one step in power +/- is equal to 1/3 stop of your aperture. So you could turn your flash power down, open up your aperture a bit more to get the blurred hearts. A longer focal length would have helped as well, 85-100mm would be great probably.

Then the background is going to be blown.

That's kind of dependent on the time of day, isn't it? Towards dusk, it's easily done.
 
I guess you didnt read the original post carefully.
 
Forgive me, I didn't read the last sentence.

What I said is still correct however, and is suggested if you have control over a shooting time.
 

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