Ansco Memar Pronto Camera questions

[annamaria]

Is anyone familiar with the Ansco Memar Pronto

camera? A friend of mine gave it to me, it's been sitting around a long time, it's full of dust and totally filthy. Not sure if it works. Is this camera worth cleaning and using it? What do you use to clean vintage cameras with? I have googled it and there are so many sites on how to clean a vintage as well as digital cams. Not sure which is the best method. Also the timer lever seems stuck. It's in the middle front towards the bottom. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[minicoop1985]

The determination of whether it's worth using falls on you. As for cleaning, a good rag and some windex usually works for me.

 

[annamaria]

The determination of whether it's worth using falls on you. As for cleaning, a good rag and some windex usually works for me.

Do you use the windex on certain parts only? As for the camera was just wondering if anyone had taken shots with it and the quality of the photos. Thank you.

 

[timor]

Don't use Windex on lens. Coatings if any, maybe weak. Lens cleaning solution would be much better.
In any case I don't think rescuing this camera is worthwhile. It would require cleaning the shutter. Good luck with it 100+ bucks coudb be spend better, like getting nice, working Nikon or Pentax slr.

 

[vintagesnaps]

Not that particular camera but similar. I've got old cameras that the timer doesn't work, so I just don't use it on those cameras! I don't use timers much anyway.

I'd probably start with a soft cloth, a microfiber cloth, and see how much dust etc. you can clean off. Breathe on it so you don't scrape dirt further into the lens particularly. Or a soft brush meant for lenses - vintage ones I've gotten are super soft and super cheap! I got some cleaner from Freestyle photo that's for use with darkroom equipment, I might try that if dusting it isn't enough, or I use cleaner for lenses (spritz on the cloth not the camera). I'd have to dig out my camera repair book but I don't think Windex is recommended for cameras. (edit - what timor said)

An Agfa f2.8 w/a prontor shutter may not be bad (can't read it to see if that's what it says). The view cameras don't usually have a lot of settings so you can't expect to necessarily get what you would with an SLR - but this one has a good range of aperture and shutter speed settings. Might need to get a roll of film and give it try.

I have cameras up to 100 years old; if they work I use them, if not they're for display. I haven't put money into repairing any, I just go ahead and use them if they work. If you have one then you'll have the start of a collection! lol

Mike Butkus' website is a good source of manuals.
Ansco Memar instruction manual, user manual

 

[annamaria]

Don't use Windex on lens. Coatings if any, maybe weak. Lens cleaning solution would be much better.
In any case I don't think rescuing this camera is worthwhile. It would require cleaning the shutter. Good luck with it 100+ bucks coudb be spend better, like getting nice, working Nikon or Pentax slr.

Thanks for your reply. I will not use the windex on the lens for sure. I'm not gong to spend money on fixing it, I could not afford it.

 

[annamaria]

Not that particular camera but similar. I've got old cameras that the timer doesn't work, so I just don't use it on those cameras! I don't use timers much anyway.

I'd probably start with a soft cloth, a microfiber cloth, and see how much dust etc. you can clean off. Breathe on it so you don't scrape dirt further into the lens particularly. Or a soft brush meant for lenses - vintage ones I've gotten are super soft and super cheap! I got some cleaner from Freestyle photo that's for use with darkroom equipment, I might try that if dusting it isn't enough, or I use cleaner for lenses (spritz on the cloth not the camera). I'd have to dig out my camera repair book but I don't think Windex is recommended for cameras. (edit - what timor said)

An Agfa f2.8 w/a prontor shutter may not be bad (can't read it to see if that's what it says). The view cameras don't usually have a lot of settings so you can't expect to necessarily get what you would with an SLR - but this one has a good range of aperture and shutter speed settings. Might need to get a roll of film and give it try.

I have cameras up to 100 years old; if they work I use them, if not they're for display. I haven't put money into repairing any, I just go ahead and use them if they work. If you have one then you'll have the start of a collection! lol

Mike Butkus' website is a good source of manuals.
Ansco Memar instruction manual, user manual

Thanks so much for all the info and the manual link, I appreciate it. Does the lens cleaner have to be specifically made for camera lens or can I use eyeglass cleaner? If not, I need to buy some. I might just give this cam a try and buy some film for it, otherwise if it does not work then it will be for display [emoji16] Yes it's an f2.8.

 

[Dave442]

I know my parents had one of those around, at least a very similar Agfa model. On that camera the shutter speed and aperture would lock and move together (like the P mode on todays cameras). This looks like it might do the same as the two dials are also together here. This makes it easy to use with a handheld light meter.

I took it apart one time and never put it back together. I think that experience was worth more than the value of the camera.

 

[annamaria]

I know my parents had one of those around, at least a very similar Agfa model. On that camera the shutter speed and aperture would lock and move together (like the P mode on todays cameras). This looks like it might do the same as the two dials are also together here. This makes it easy to use with a handheld light meter.

I took it apart one time and never put it back together. I think that experience was worth more than the value of the camera.

Thanks for that interesting tidbit about the shutter speed and aperture. Sounds like you had fun tinkering with it. [emoji6] I know better than to try to fix it myself, no way.

 

[compur]

The camera is an Ansco Memar. The word "Prontor" is the model name of the camera's shutter which was made by a different company than the camera's manufacturer.

 

[jcdeboever]

For cleaning outside parts (not lens), I use an electric blower first to get off lose dust. I keep it at a safe distance. Then soft brush dry. Q-tips dipped in lighter fluid for oily grime. Rubbing alcohol for waterbased grime. Leather just use your spit and q-tips or microfibre towel. Microfibre towels are very handy, don't buy the cheap ones, get automotive detail grade as cheap ones lint bad. Mechanical parts I use lighter fluid or electrical contact cleaner and microfiber tipped automotive touch up brushes, very handy. Toothpicks, led lit power glasses, graphite, magnetic dish, razor blades, third hand clips, are other handy items. Cell phone to help capture parts assembly challenges. The service manual would be helpful. Micro tools are a must. If you decide to lubricate with graphite, less is better, super tiny amounts or leave it dry. Time, patience, and good light are a must.

Glass, I use sprayway glass cleaner SPW50 only... It's the best glass cleaner in the world, no ammonia, no streaks. Never spray direct on glass. Use lens cloth or quality microfiber.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[annamaria]

For cleaning outside parts (not lens), I use an electric blower first to get off lose dust. I keep it at a safe distance. Then soft brush dry. Q-tips dipped in lighter fluid for oily grime. Rubbing alcohol for waterbased grime. Leather just use your spit and q-tips or microfibre towel. Microfibre towels are very handy, don't buy the cheap ones, get automotive detail grade as cheap ones lint bad. Mechanical parts I use lighter fluid or electrical contact cleaner and microfiber tipped automotive touch up brushes, very handy. Toothpicks, led lit power glasses, graphite, magnetic dish, razor blades, third hand clips, are other handy items. Cell phone to help capture parts assembly challenges. The service manual would be helpful. Micro tools are a must. If you decide to lubricate with graphite, less is better, super tiny amounts or leave it dry. Time, patience, and good light are a must.

Glass, I use sprayway glass cleaner SPW50 only... It's the best glass cleaner in the world, no ammonia, no streaks. Never spray direct on glass. Use lens cloth or quality microfiber.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Quite a bit of Info here, I will look into all the cleaners, and cloths you mentioned. I think I may have some lighter fluid around. Thank you for all your suggestions much appreciated. [emoji3]

 

[jcdeboever]

For cleaning outside parts (not lens), I use an electric blower first to get off lose dust. I keep it at a safe distance. Then soft brush dry. Q-tips dipped in lighter fluid for oily grime. Rubbing alcohol for waterbased grime. Leather just use your spit and q-tips or microfibre towel. Microfibre towels are very handy, don't buy the cheap ones, get automotive detail grade as cheap ones lint bad. Mechanical parts I use lighter fluid or electrical contact cleaner and microfiber tipped automotive touch up brushes, very handy. Toothpicks, led lit power glasses, graphite, magnetic dish, razor blades, third hand clips, are other handy items. Cell phone to help capture parts assembly challenges. The service manual would be helpful. Micro tools are a must. If you decide to lubricate with graphite, less is better, super tiny amounts or leave it dry. Time, patience, and good light are a must.

Glass, I use sprayway glass cleaner SPW50 only... It's the best glass cleaner in the world, no ammonia, no streaks. Never spray direct on glass. Use lens cloth or quality microfiber.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Quite a bit of Info here, I will look into all the cleaners, and cloths you mentioned. I think I may have some lighter fluid around. Thank you for all your suggestions much appreciated. [emoji3]

Lighter fluid works great, no residue. Sprayway can be picked up at Walmart I think, its aerosol and the wife swears by it as well. I buy it by the case (12) from local automotive paint store. Graphite can be had at micheals craft store in the pinewood derby section but may not be necessary.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[annamaria]

For cleaning outside parts (not lens), I use an electric blower first to get off lose dust. I keep it at a safe distance. Then soft brush dry. Q-tips dipped in lighter fluid for oily grime. Rubbing alcohol for waterbased grime. Leather just use your spit and q-tips or microfibre towel. Microfibre towels are very handy, don't buy the cheap ones, get automotive detail grade as cheap ones lint bad. Mechanical parts I use lighter fluid or electrical contact cleaner and microfiber tipped automotive touch up brushes, very handy. Toothpicks, led lit power glasses, graphite, magnetic dish, razor blades, third hand clips, are other handy items. Cell phone to help capture parts assembly challenges. The service manual would be helpful. Micro tools are a must. If you decide to lubricate with graphite, less is better, super tiny amounts or leave it dry. Time, patience, and good light are a must.

Glass, I use sprayway glass cleaner SPW50 only... It's the best glass cleaner in the world, no ammonia, no streaks. Never spray direct on glass. Use lens cloth or quality microfiber.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Quite a bit of Info here, I will look into all the cleaners, and cloths you mentioned. I think I may have some lighter fluid around. Thank you for all your suggestions much appreciated. [emoji3]

Lighter fluid works great, no residue. Sprayway can be picked up at Walmart I think, its aerosol and the wife swears by it as well. I buy it by the case (12) from local automotive paint store. Graphite can be had at micheals craft store in the pinewood derby section but may not be necessary.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Thanks again I will take a look next time I'm at Walmart, as for graphite I will have to do some searching online or locally in this small town [emoji57]

 

[john.margetts]

With Pronto or Prontor shutters it is not a good idea to use the self timer as the mechanism is weak and using it could wreck the shutter mechanism. Pronto/Prontor shutters are very robust (above comments not withstanding) and should need very little attention. They are designed to work with no lubrication so do not be tempted to use any sort of oil or (worse) WD40 on it. Dry-firing the shutter a few dozen times will encourage correct speeds.

www.johns-old-cameras.blogspot.co.uk