Any better this time? Softball please CC

[Judd]

I am really trying to work on getting better photos so please give me all the CC you wish. Considering I haven't even read the manual till the other day, I have no shame in getting advice. You wont hurt my feelings, really !!

My last set of shots I think I was too focused on getting a play by play, following the ball everywhere. Last night I focused on one spot, zoomed in, and stayed there.

FYI it was a practice, and the team just scrimmaged 6vs6

It was evening time, the sun was setting, and there was a huge tree line so we were in the shade for the most part. I played around with ISO, then set it to automatic. I also played around with shutter speed, and learned how that makes a big difference in exposure !!!. For giggles, I set it to one second, LOL.

I also used AF in the AI servo mode

55-200 MM lens only

Since I had the shutter speed from 1/200 to 1/2000 (depending on clouds, etc), some parts of the picture are blurred. I assume that is the change in shutter speed?

I have PS CS3 and need to install it. Is it possible to fix the exposure on some of these? I thought the catcher pictures were good, but I know they are dark.

Thanks, here goes

Rachael pitching

Sierra pitching, I thought the face was great

Laree on third

Hannah at first. I know 2 things that may be said, I chopped her legs, and you cant see her whole face ??

Holly catching, I know too dark, can I as a beginner PS this to make it better?

Holly again

Amanda pitching

My main focus last night was staying focused, getting a good angle and having something I could crop. I had the ability to get on the field and move around. I also tried to get proper exposure, but that was secondary

I appreciate any advice on setting up the camera, settings, etc for this

 

[D.MoralesPhoto]

What mode was the camera in for these? Several look a little overexposed, so if you were in TV/Shutter mode, you probably could have increased your shutter speed and both corrected the exposure and got a touch more "stop action" than you did.

That's really all I can say, I'm still a newbie to it as well, but that's just what I thought "right off the bat"

Ok, sorry that was too cheesy

 

[Judd]

Yes I was in TV mode. I changed the shutter speed every few minutes based on what I was seeing after the shot. The sun was setting and it kept getting darker. I was from 1/200 to 1/2000.

I took almost 500 shots but these seemed to be the best ones action wise.

 

[D.MoralesPhoto]

Well...you could stay at the higher shutter speed and manipulate other things then...ISO setting? I can't see any of your info on your pictures.

I would imagine some of the veterans here would recommend checking out the histogram. I personally don't do that yet (I probably should...) but I do check my images on the LCD after I shoot. If they look a bit overexposed (which can happen based on metering even if the camera "predicts" a good exposure), I'll tune it a bit to look better. Sometimes when I do this, the camera thinks I'll be underexposing by a full stop, but the image itself actually comes out very much to my liking.

Also, shooting in RAW or JPG? I know RAW slows it down quite a bit, but does offer so much more flexibility later...

 

[gsgary]

For this sort of sport use Aperture priority and open your aperture as wide as possible and the camera will give you the fastest shutter speed it can for correct exposure if it is not fast enough up the iso, TV mode is for when you want to control motion in a shot like motorsport

 

[robertwsimpson]

shutter speed too slow in all these...

I'd go for either aperture priority or shutter priority. Also, higher ISO settings are probably needed.

 

[BuS_RiDeR]

I agree that a faster shutter would have helped freeze the action a bit better...

On a side note...

You can adjust the brightness/contrast in a matter of seconds using Gimp or photo$hop... or whatever software you prefer. (I think its better to get the exposure right out of the camera if you can)

But hey, I'm learning as well, and I'm happy that these software tools exist.

Before...

After...

 

[myfotoguy]

Agreed, aperture priority and gof or max shutter speed. Also, what focus mode? If you use the focus selector and a focus tracking mode your focus will be more precise. Although, maunly I think the issue is shuter speed.

Once you figure out the exposure triangle (see Myfotoguy: The Exposure Triangle (Myfotoguy Series on Exposure Part 1 of 5)), you can use exposure compensation to fine tune and adjust exposure as needed on the fly.

 

[Derrel]

The dark evergreen trees in the background are causing your camera's light metering system to use too slow of a shutter speed; the problem you are having is a very common problem. As T.MoralesPhoto mentioned, it's common to shoot with the in-camera metering system telling you that the exposure is under-exposed by a full stop (or even more) and have the final photos come out looking right. When shooting in front of dark backgrounds like this, it's possible that you'd want to set the exposure metering system to Minus 1 and one-third or even one and one half f/stops of Minus exposure compensation, to offset the influence of the large expanses of dark trees in the background. These are better shots than your first posted photos from a couple of days ago.

 

[KmH]

Definate improvement since you now have faces and expressions.

• Av or Manual shooting mode
• float your ISO (auto)
• keep a close eye on the shutter speed which the camera will be adjusting in Av mode
• try to not go below 1/500.
• change the white balance (WB) when the clouds move in
• or put the WB in auto if your camera can perform the auto white balance with a degree of accuracy.

You have to be aware of the light levels (clouds,no clouds) as a key to eyeing the shutter speed. The glass you have is marginal for the task.

I also think you may not be using the right metering or focus modes, though it could be you don't yet know how to use them, since you're not real familiar with the camera. ("I haven't even read the manual till the other day".)

It will take several readings of the manual to glean all the pertinent info about it's features/capabilities and to gain an understanding of how to apply those to shooting sports.

To sell action sports photos focus is key. No focus, no sell.

Sports photography is one of the hardest to do well because is so dynamic and fluid, nothing like shooting portraits in a studio.

 

[BuS_RiDeR]

Agreed, aperture priority and gof or max shutter speed.

I feel stupid... At least a bit ignorant... Its probably super obvious... but,What is gof? Is it supposed to be Dof or am I missing something?

 

[robertwsimpson]

gof or = go for + typo

 

[BuS_RiDeR]

gof or = go for + typo

Ahhh thank you. I knew I was missing something...

 

[gpardo64]

Just to add that from the composition point of view, subjects in the middle of the photo are not necessary the best option especially when there is action. You could get more information about it, searching for rule of thirds.

 

[Judd]

Well...you could stay at the higher shutter speed and manipulate other things then...ISO setting? I can't see any of your info on your pictures.

I would imagine some of the veterans here would recommend checking out the histogram. I personally don't do that yet (I probably should...) but I do check my images on the LCD after I shoot. If they look a bit overexposed (which can happen based on metering even if the camera "predicts" a good exposure), I'll tune it a bit to look better. Sometimes when I do this, the camera thinks I'll be underexposing by a full stop, but the image itself actually comes out very much to my liking.

Also, shooting in RAW or JPG? I know RAW slows it down quite a bit, but does offer so much more flexibility later...

Histogram? Is that the EXIF data?

I shoot in JPEG. I thought about RAW but I dont use PS, only have an old version of CS3 on CD which apparently I don't have the registration info for. Have to find a way to spring for that. Maybe sell a kidney or something

For this sort of sport use Aperture priority and open your aperture as wide as possible and the camera will give you the fastest shutter speed it can for correct exposure if it is not fast enough up the iso, TV mode is for when you want to control motion in a shot like motorsport

Thanks. If I up the ISO will it slow down the shutter?

shutter speed too slow in all these...

I'd go for either aperture priority or shutter priority. Also, higher ISO settings are probably needed.

I was in shutter priority, I slowed the shutter speed down. I guess I was looking at my previews and misjudged how they were coming out.

Agreed, aperture priority and gof or max shutter speed. Also, what focus mode? If you use the focus selector and a focus tracking mode your focus will be more precise. Although, maunly I think the issue is shuter speed.

Once you figure out the exposure triangle (see Myfotoguy: The Exposure Triangle (Myfotoguy Series on Exposure Part 1 of 5)), you can use exposure compensation to fine tune and adjust exposure as needed on the fly.

I read all 5 parts. Thanks. I used AF and used the AI Focus setting, is that what you mean?

Definate improvement since you now have faces and expressions.

• Av or Manual shooting mode
• float your ISO (auto)
• keep a close eye on the shutter speed which the camera will be adjusting in Av mode
• try to not go below 1/500.
• change the white balance (WB) when the clouds move in
• or put the WB in auto if your camera can perform the auto white balance with a degree of accuracy.

You have to be aware of the light levels (clouds,no clouds) as a key to eyeing the shutter speed. The glass you have is marginal for the task.

I also think you may not be using the right metering or focus modes, though it could be you don't yet know how to use them, since you're not real familiar with the camera. ("I haven't even read the manual till the other day".)

It will take several readings of the manual to glean all the pertinent info about it's features/capabilities and to gain an understanding of how to apply those to shooting sports.

To sell action sports photos focus is key. No focus, no sell.

Sports photography is one of the hardest to do well because is so dynamic and fluid, nothing like shooting portraits in a studio.

Do you mean not to go slower than 1/500

I have heard on the softball forums a while back, that my lenses were not that great. There is just no way I can afford a new lens now.

And if I cant sell any photographs this season, oh well. At least I am learning.I have had some parents tell me they thought it was a great idea. And like mentioned in the other thread, there is an emotional attachment to these photos. You can always find a photo of a sunset, but how many chances do you get of Susy sliding into home under the tag ???


I appreciate all the help. I will reread the manual a couple more times. I may shoot tomorrow night or go out this weekend and find something to shoot.