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Any HVAC experts?

< former HVAC repair tech, shop closed in the economic downturn and jobs were nonexistent, so I gave up on it

Anyway, everyone's right. It's the same. Well, I should really say it's close enough-it used to be the same thing, but today's diesel has the additives to prevent it from turning to gel and all that other crap companies put in there, besides the dye. That being said, those additives won't cause any issues. The only other difference is how much more it costs per gallon... at least that's how it was.
 
Sorry, I got nothing to add, I'm just curious, where are you that you are using fuel oil? Here all home heating is either done by electricity or natural gas lessen you live in the country then it's propane.


Maine. House is older so it still uses oil heat. I would like to switch to natural gas but the nearest line is roughly 50 miles away. Propane is good too but I'd have to switch my whole system over.

I will probably end up putting in a wood stove since I have the hook up and plenty of trees to cut down.

Well that explains it then. I heard that the northeast is pretty much a fuel oil area. Sorry to here you are up in Maine. I worry for your safety. Remember, that's where most of Stephen King's novels are set. :mrgreen:
 
if it is a money concern. have you considered something simple as a electric space heater or two? I have run them. Works fine for a localized area and you can keep the temp lower in the other parts of the house. NOt as expensive as you might think depends on square foot you are attempting to do. I did the math on it a few years back on the central maine power website. I think it came down to I could run two electric space heaters 24 hours a day for about 170 a month. so it was actually cheaper than burning oil using space heaters. course, realistically they are only good for localized areas 1000 square feet or less per heater and in below zero temps they may not keep up. I have five of them (bought them all to slowly raise a house temp when it had frozen pipes trying to save them), use one in the living room, keep the rest of the house a few degrees lower. Electric bill only goes up thirty dollars a month. just be careful if your furnace is in the basement as heat rises. you can run the space heater on a living floor and feel fine but if the temp drops too low in the basement or somewhere from the furnace NOT kicking on enough you can end up with frozen pipes. Anything running along a exterior wall is a concern as well so don't let any part of the house drop too low.
 
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I do have space heaters but the furnaces heats the water as well. Pretty much the worst setup for the northeast. Sadly I don't have the money to invest into a more efficient heating system. Spent 2k just in oil this winter.
 
Wow, 2K? I can see where that would be tough. Granted, we are in Kansas but it was a pretty good winter here. Only 45 for a high today in mid to late march. I don't think we spend 2K on gas in a year for heat and heating water both. Here we have a heat pump that works well until it gets particularly cold and then the gas kicks in to assist. Don't know if Maine would be a suitable location for heat pumps or not.
 
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Wow, 2K? I can see where that would be tough. Granted, we are in Kansas but it was a pretty good winter here. Only 45 for a high today in mid to late march. I don't think we spend 2K on gas in a year for heat and heating water both. Here we have a heat pump that works well until it gets particularly cold and then the gas kicks in to assist. Don't know if Maine would be a suitable location for heat pumps or not.

Yeah it has been a particularly cold year. Normally it's closer to 1k.
 
I do have space heaters but the furnaces heats the water as well. Pretty much the worst setup for the northeast. Sadly I don't have the money to invest into a more efficient heating system. Spent 2k just in oil this winter.
I have no sympathy i'm over 2400 already just on my lil apartment building. Before I went to the new boiler I was running four k a year on the little apartment building that now went down to about 3k. so, six k for boiler. save a k six year pay back. And im not rich either I work a lot.
look at it this way. you go wood it will run you seven hundred a year (seasoned cut) unless you really are cutting it yourself.

For the sake of 1300 a year more you don't have to deal with it at all and just keep using oil and save the headache and time. pellet stoves, three tons is going to run about 660 for the year delivered (maybe more). if you buy in the summer and pick it up yourself you can probably get them for 600. but still for the extra 1400 you don't have to deal with it at all. you buy a good pellet stove like a harmon (guessing you will pay for install looking at this thread) it will cost you threek installed approx. so you will have a couple year pay back plus will have to deal with pellets. And you still wont be out of oil because pellets are supplementary heat and you still need the burner for the hotwater unless you go to a electric hot water tank.

Really all in how you look at it. coil boilers in the basement (assuming) with hotwater off the boiler is efficient in the winter. Because it kicks on to heat the hotwater so the heat rises. coil boiles are great in a way. it isn't wasted energy in the winter. The problem with them comes in summer, when they are kicking on to heat the hotwater and stay to temp when you don't need the heat and the hotwater isn't running. That is where you save money going to on demand and cold start in the non heating months because the boiler isn't kicking on when its 70 or eighty degrees. Easy fix to that (did that when I was broke) is flip the switch and shut it off totally. you need hotwater, flip it back on and wait ten minutes until it comes up to temp. you just made it into a coldstart by shutting it off and turning it on.
I really cant tell you specifics, I don't know your house or local suppliers just giving you something to weigh.

other option is a outside wood boiler, but maine is cracking down on them because us mainers will throw anything into a fire even if it isn't safe.

Far as no money, you can get energy efficiency loans through the state, or even local banks with acceptable interest rates. Going into debt on something with a efficiency upgrade and payback wouldn't be a unwise choice, as the savings will outweigh the interest payments.
 
I know everyone says this too. But I will as well as it is true. Doesn't matter how efficient your system is if your house isn't. Least expensive and most economical upgrade a person can make is simply to make sure the house is sealed from drafts. doors, windows, adequate insulation. IF the house itself is wasting energy, that is where to start. Usually inexpensive fixes as well. If insulation is lacking go to a lowes and buy some bales of blown in. I think if you buy ten bales or more they let you use the machine to blow it in for free. I bought twenty bales to do a attic few years ago they let me use the machine no extra cost.
 
Why not just phone up your oil company for delivery. Their schedule is NOT made in stone.

$90 extra plus 100 gallon minimum. I have a scheduled delivery on Tuesday.

Unless you are way off in the back woods, somewhere, you NEED another oil company! Free delivery is standard for me anytime
 
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sorry. it is a photo forum. I was driving by. I couldn't help it. I was compelled. <img src="http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=69252"/><img src="http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=69253"/>

Cheap fuel is still not an excuse to go to Sanford ;)
 
sorry. it is a photo forum. I was driving by. I couldn't help it. I was compelled. <img src="http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/attachments/off-topic-chat/69252-any-hvac-experts-dscn2845_303.jpg"/><img src="http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/attachments/off-topic-chat/69253-any-hvac-experts-dscn2847_302.jpg"/>

Cheap fuel is still not an excuse to go to Sanford ;)
got to cross over to new Hampshire for that.
 

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