Automatic Vs. Manual Settings

[Josh66]

It's the simplest thing in the world unless I'm missing something ( which I think I'm not ).

Yup, not much to it. The only thing to keep in mind is that you might not always want to just zero it out.

 

[fwellers]

Yup, not much to it. The only thing to keep in mind is that you might not always want to just zero it out.

I haven't ran across a situation yet when zeroing it out doesn't work. The more important thing I've noticed is what metering mode I'm in and where I'm metering on. I might be missing something there, but for up to 3 bars ( one stop I think ), it's easy enough to adjust in PP without damaging the image.

But really, it seems like for available light, the D90 is very straight forward and making good exposures.

 

[tsaraleksi]

The thing is that you have to be putting a lot of thought into your settings in manual or you may as well be shooting in a semi-auto mode.

 

[fwellers]

The thing is that you have to be putting a lot of thought into your settings in manual or you may as well be shooting in a semi-auto mode.

What do you mean ? I'm not following. Just like in semi-auto modes, you still have to decide on one setting for your artistic purposes, then the only thing left is to meter, frame, zero out, and click.

 

[tsaraleksi]

But "zeroing" the meter just means that you are setting the exposure to whatever the camera wants it to be set at. It's exactly the same thing as setting the EC to the middle and shooting in Av or Tv, it just takes longer.

 

[fwellers]

But "zeroing" the meter just means that you are setting the exposure to whatever the camera wants it to be set at. It's exactly the same thing as setting the EC to the middle and shooting in Av or Tv, it just takes longer.

Well I guess you're right. Sort of. It feels different to me, because for one thing, I don't need to worry about figuring out what mode I want to be in ( shutter or aperture ), and then switching to that mode.
Plus there is the EC stuff to remember. To me it's just more straight forward to zero.
But really you're right. It's the same thing. You get the same exposure, it's just personal preference.

 

[Josh66]

I haven't ran across a situation yet when zeroing it out doesn't work. The more important thing I've noticed is what metering mode I'm in and where I'm metering on.

Yes, I agree that this is much more important.
Sometimes you will get into situations that will fool the meter, and you'll need to over or under expose to compensate.

But "zeroing" the meter just means that you are setting the exposure to whatever the camera wants it to be set at. It's exactly the same thing as setting the EC to the middle and shooting in Av or Tv, it just takes longer.

Almost.

There are a few important differences... In manual, the settings will not change. In Tv or Av, if you recompose - the settings will change (you are now metering a different area). They probably won't change much, but they will change.

Manual will give you more consistant results.

 

[fwellers]

There are a few important differences... In manual, the settings will not change. In Tv or Av, if you recompose - the settings will change (you are now metering a different area). They probably won't change much, but they will change.

Manual will give you more consistant results.

Oh yea I forgot about that, but it is a big one with me. It makes most of the stuff on my camera obsolete. No need for focus lock or exposure lock along with the other auto stuff.

 

[Dao]

There are a few important differences... In manual, the settings will not change. In Tv or Av, if you recompose - the settings will change (you are now metering a different area). They probably won't change much, but they will change.

Manual will give you more consistant results.

:thumbup:

Yes, especially someone need to take a series of photo in the same environment.

For example, when my daughter making a series of funny faces. I may take a little longer to make sure the 1st shot has the correct exposure I want. But after that, all I need to pay attention is the focus. Then the rest of the 20 - 40 photos will look the same in terms of exposure.

 

[tsaraleksi]

Manual will give you more consistant results.

That's my point-- if you read my earlier post (in which I commented that I am probably shooting >90% in manual), my explanation for why to use manual was consistency, more than anything else. But if you're tinkering with the settings to zero out the meter for every shot, then you're not maintaining consistent settings.

 

[fwellers]

That's my point-- if you read my earlier post (in which I commented that I am probably shooting >90% in manual), my explanation for why to use manual was consistency, more than anything else. But if you're tinkering with the settings to zero out the meter for every shot, then you're not maintaining consistent settings.

Well maybe I overstated the zeroing thing. I mean if I decide to meter on the grass, I'll zero it there. Then when I recompose the shot I don't even look at the meter because I know it will be different. That was the purpose for metering somewhere else in the first place.
I would just look at the histogram to make sure it worked.

Also, a lot of times if I want to take candids I'll secretly meter before hand, then when I raise the camera to shoot, there's nothing to do except wait for the seemingly unending amount of time ( sometimes a whole second or so ) for the lens to focus.

That's the next big thing I have to overcome I need a faster focus method for when I'm trying to shoot candids. I think I may just try to bump up the aperture and focus manually when doing them.

 

[Josh66]

That's the next big thing I have to overcome I need a faster focus method for when I'm trying to shoot candids. I think I may just try to bump up the aperture and focus manually when doing them.

Sometimes you might be able to get away with pre-focusing manually. That would depend a lot of the specific situation though, obviously.