John, get there. It is such an incredible place. Bagan and Inle Lake, while very much worth a visit, are quite touristy. But it is quite easy to get off the beaten track.
I had wanted to go to the southern end of Inle Lake but the water was low, the canal connecting the two halves was almost dry and no luck.
As bc_steve said, if you do go, get off the beaten track.
I like Pindaya, major caves full of Buddhas and tourist destination for Burmese.
If you are a bit more adventurous, go to Mawlamyine by bus. There is a major island across from the city that is just now opening for non-Burmese.
Then go by bus to Hpa An. That is a small city that is bustling up the Salween River where the trade is all from smuggling drugs and porn across to Thailand; this trade is supposedly controlled by a local warlord, the abbot in the local monastery, who has his own army.
Here are 3 blog posts about Myanmar.
Lew Lorton Photography | Esther, Sitting By the Road
Lew Lorton Photography | A Day on Inle Lake
Lew Lorton Photography | Pictures of Involuntary Memory
and a piece about Hpa An written by my oldest son and partly quoted with his permission:
Hpa-An, 40 kilometers up the Salween River by twice-weekly ferry from Mawlamyine, looks pretty much like any other Southeast-Asian one-water-buffalo town. Dusty ragged streets, tiny stores and restaurants, cheerful children and their watchful mothers, harassed-looking pariah dogs slinking by.
Some things, though, are subtly wrong, subtly off. The rice shop is so stuffed with bags of rice, stuffed to overflowing, that the owner and his clerk do their sums not inside where it’s cool but out on the sidewalk, with more stacks of rice-bags as a desk. The children are particularly cheerful, playing on complicated Chinese- and Thai-made plastic riding toys. My hotel cost $25 a night, twice what I had paid at Mawlamyine, and the electricity, water, and sewage systems are all far from reliable, but the room is provisioned with full-sized tubes of Close-Up and genuine Sprite instead of the local equivalents. There are more hotels in the town than there are tourists (after a day we know the name, nationality, and quarters of any white face we see) but every hotel claims to be full. What is going on here?
It took me over a day, chatting with those of the locals who speak English, to find out. Myanmar is said to be at civil war, has been since at least 1962, by far the longest-lasting war in modern history. Actually, calling it a war is something of a misnomer. It’s more like the warlord period of China before the Communist takeover. Almost every one of Myanmar’s 130 ethnic groups has its own army, and each army constitutes something like a government-without-portfolio in whatever territory it controls. The Burman people, being the majority ethnic group, have the largest and most powerful army, the State Peace and Development Council or SPDC, so it gets to be called “the” government, it issues the currency, credentials ambassadors to other country, and so on. It maintains shaky truces with several of the more powerful of the other armies, and puts some effort into combating the rest.
continued at
Inside Hpa An | Blue Apsara