Beginner's lighting. What do you want to know?

[Big Mike]

If the object is adequately lit with the spot lights, you might be OK with no flash. But make sure that your exposure is set for the object and not all the dark area around it. So if you can, take a spot reading or get in close to set your exposure.

 

[cszakolczai]

I'm really looking to possibly pick up some studio lighting or just some lighting in general. I am picking up an SB600 possibly an SB800 within the next week, but I'd also like to get some other lighting which is easy to transport. I hope that question made sense, if not than sorry and I'll rephrase.

Also what do you think about this?
does this really work that well?

http://store.garyfonginc.com/liiido.html

 

[Big Mike]

I'm really looking to possibly pick up some studio lighting or just some lighting in general. I am picking up an SB600 possibly an SB800 within the next week, but I'd also like to get some other lighting which is easy to transport. I hope that question made sense, if not than sorry and I'll rephrase.

If you are looking for 'studio lighting' that is easy to transport, then you might as well stick with Speedlights or similar units. Stick one on of those on a light stand with an umbrella and you have a great, portable 'studio' type light.

If you haven't yet, read THIS.

The Gary Fong Lightsphere (or Fong Dong, as some like to call it) can be a useful tool in some situation. It basically throws light out in all directions, with the hope that the light will bounce off of things and come back to surround your subject. If there is nothing to bounce the light off of, the light is wasted, which makes recycle times longer and uses up the batteries faster.

 

[andrew99]

Before spending money on the Gary Fong device: DIY Lightsphere

 

[cszakolczai]

yeah I was going to make my own, I just didn't know if it was worth my time or not to even try haha, thanks for the responses.

 

[Syndac]

I guess I can throw my question in here rather than a new thread. I recently bought a new flash a few months ago and noticed the manual is twice the size of my camera manual which is odd. So far I'm primarily using bounce flash with diffuser when possible for a more natural look, however I'm pretty much guessing the manual setting every time via trial and error. Is there an easier way to do this? I figured since it's bouncing auto modes wouldn't be too effective since the surface distance/reflection would vary every time. Am I doing it correctly and if so does the guesswork get any easier with more experience?

Thanks.

 

[Village Idiot]

I guess I can throw my question in here rather than a new thread. I recently bought a new flash a few months ago and noticed the manual is twice the size of my camera manual which is odd. So far I'm primarily using bounce flash with diffuser when possible for a more natural look, however I'm pretty much guessing the manual setting every time via trial and error. Is there an easier way to do this? I figured since it's bouncing auto modes wouldn't be too effective since the surface distance/reflection would vary every time. Am I doing it correctly and if so does the guesswork get any easier with more experience?

Thanks.

As far as my experience of bouncing with TTL, I usually up the power to compensate and it works fairly well and give a consistant result. I don't do it too often though, so I don't have a lot of experience with that.

 

[rubbertree]

thank you!

 

[Big Mike]

I figured since it's bouncing auto modes wouldn't be too effective since the surface distance/reflection would vary every time. Am I doing it correctly and if so does the guesswork get any easier with more experience?

Bouncing is the ideal time to be using auto flash metering...because of all the variables.

Think about it this way. If you are using manual control of the flash, you use the distance from the flash to the subject to calculate/estimate the flash power required. If you bounce, you need to figure in the distance to the surface (ceiling) and then the distance from there to the subject. Plus, you would have to figure in the amount of light that the the surface will absorb (rather than bounce) and that will depend on many factors like the color, smoothness and texture of the surface.

When using auto flash metering...all of that is taken into account because the camera is measuring the light that is coming into the lens...after it has bounced around and come back.

And either way, you might still need to adjust the power of the flash. In manual it's just a simple more or less power. In auto, you dial in a plus or minus FEC.

 

[sto12m]

What type of event? If you're still in a place with white ceilings, you may be able to still use bounce flash, even at that height.

Its a grand wedding dinner inside a school hall, actually it was my friend who attended this dinner and he was not prepared enough for this event. And yeah its a white ceiling; the height of the hall is just an estimation, as my friend told me that it is like a 4-5 stories shop lot.

So I thought of taking this case as an example for me to learn something from it.

Thanks for the advice! Much appreciate it!

 

[sto12m]

If the object is adequately lit with the spot lights, you might be OK with no flash. But make sure that your exposure is set for the object and not all the dark area around it. So if you can, take a spot reading or get in close to set your exposure.

Hi, spot reading is the same as spot metering right? Yeah, that would do but it might take some time for it to auto-set the exposure where we might lose a few shots during the calibration time (especially when the spot light is not constantly aiming at one target).

And yes, I'm learning something here. Thanks for the advice Mike!

 

[switchback]

Really nice thread. Is anyone going to start the thread on manual settings?

 

[JerryPH]

As far as my experience of bouncing with TTL, I usually up the power to compensate and it works fairly well and give a consistant result. I don't do it too often though, so I don't have a lot of experience with that.

Let me add to that a little... a nice beginner's trick to do is one day, when you are practicing, is to set down some base info to help get you into the approximate range, that way you are not starting from scratch all the time, AND if you want to continue to use manual flash settings.

The trick is to recreate and confirm the basic setup that you use most often. Say for example, that you mostly shoot full body portraits and you settle in on ISO 200, flash at 1/8th, shutter speed at 200 and aperture of F/7.1 and when the subject is 10 feet away from you with your camera mounted flash, you get a properly exposed picture. Well a lot of the hard work is now done... take this info (SS 200, ISO 200, F/7.1, 10 ft.) and put it on a small piece of tape and slap it on the side of your flash.

That way, then next time you fall into this situation, you already start off from known good settings. If you are off a little (distance changes for example), you can easily compensate by using a little common sense (ie: either open up the aperture or increase the flash), based on your needs.

Makes "getting there" a little faster.

 

[Helen B]

My DH made me a soft box about 3feet square. I used draped white fabric off the top, sides and bottom. Attached 2 clamp lights to either side with 40 watt regular light bulbs. Pictures still don't look the way I want them to.
Do I need higher wattage? A specific light bulb? Do I set my white balance on auto or must it be set to the type of light bulb used?
Can I use the soft box anywhere in the house or does the lighting within the house make a difference?

I suggest that you start a new thread about this so that you get a full discussion without it being lost among other discussions.

Best,
Helen

 

[asfixiate]

Does anyone have any examples with the use of gels? Village i know you said you use them.