Best way to light large outdoor night events with minimal light?

Pukka312 · Dec 7, 2012

I recently moved to Tanzania to pursue photography full time as a career and am currently mostly shooting weddings and send off events (large pre-wedding celebrations) but I've encountered a big challenge lighting the outdoor venues. Because the weather is virtually perfect (albeit hot), about half of my events are outdoors and start after sunset. Everyone has a thing here using Christmas lights to "light" the venue and that's about it, which basically means its so dark even the camera has difficulty focusing on the subjects at the venues. (I literally have to follow the videographer when he makes his rounds to the guests because his video light at least makes it easy to focus) The average size of weddings here are roughly 600 guests, which obviously means the locations are really spread out. I've considered focusing on putting a pair of speed lights on stands near the dance floor where about 70% of the action takes place and then just use an on camera flash for the portions that are away from the center stage, but I'm a bit nervous about the speedlites getting knocked down. I'm also a bit concerned about theft, as I've heard stories of other photographer's equipment being stolen while at the events....including one photographer who said his projectors were stolen when the electricity briefly went out at a wedding. So I am definitely hesitant in investing in strobes because I couldn't afford to replace them easily if stolen or knocked down. Not to mention electricity is a serious problem here. So my other thought was investing in quantum flashes because I heard they have a bit more power, better quality light, and better recycle time. Right now I primarily shoot with a 60D, and I'm not a fan shooting above ISO 800 because I get too much noise. Until I can slap the money down for the mark iii, and maybe a nice 50mm 1.2 to help, I have to try to make do with what I've got. But I would consider investing in the quantam if anyone has experience using them and has significantly better lighting then with speedlites. Thoughts? Ideas?

bratkinson · Dec 7, 2012

Most of all, you'll need fast lenses. f2.8 or better. While the 50 f1.2L might be nice, I'd probably opt for the 50 f1.4 instead, and an 85 f1.8, too. The pair is probably less costly than the 1.2L and gets you a bit further back. The fast lenses should also allow some no-flash shooting in 'better lit' situations.

As for lighting, I would be concerned about lightstands anywhere except in a studio or securely attached to a non-mobile object such as a tree. But who knows what can grow legs when you're not looking. So, I'd like to suggest a 580EX II flash on a flash bracket to allow quick change to portrait shooting (and stay above the lens) as well as to reduce red-eye. If you have a friend or can hire someone to be an assistant to hold a 2nd flash, remote controlled, your lighting is pretty much solved.

While the 60D can shoot at ISO 2400 without being overly noisy, I generally prefer 1600 as the 'practical max' ISO on my 60D. But going to 2400 is still acceptable.

I'd also try to work in a monopod, if possible. If warranted, you may want to try setting up a 'mini portrait booth' for anyone who wants some quick pictures (JPG, SOOC) with your camera on a tripod and the 2nd flash on a stand.

For what it's worth, I just upgraded from a 60D to a 5D3 2 weeks ago and it's low light/low noise capabilities are still being 'discovered' by me. So far, ISO 2400 is virtually no-noise and ISO 10000 noise is still in the acceptable range (if not overly enlarged).

Pukka312 · Dec 7, 2012

bratkinson said:
Most of all, you'll need fast lenses. f2.8 or better. While the 50 f1.2L might be nice, I'd probably opt for the 50 f1.4 instead, and an 85 f1.8, too. The pair is probably less costly than the 1.2L and gets you a bit further back. The fast lenses should also allow some no-flash shooting in 'better lit' situations.

As for lighting, I would be concerned about lightstands anywhere except in a studio or securely attached to a non-mobile object such as a tree. But who knows what can grow legs when you're not looking. So, I'd like to suggest a 580EX II flash on a flash bracket to allow quick change to portrait shooting (and stay above the lens) as well as to reduce red-eye. If you have a friend or can hire someone to be an assistant to hold a 2nd flash, remote controlled, your lighting is pretty much solved.

While the 60D can shoot at ISO 2400 without being overly noisy, I generally prefer 1600 as the 'practical max' ISO on my 60D. But going to 2400 is still acceptable.

I'd also try to work in a monopod, if possible. If warranted, you may want to try setting up a 'mini portrait booth' for anyone who wants some quick pictures (JPG, SOOC) with your camera on a tripod and the 2nd flash on a stand.

For what it's worth, I just upgraded from a 60D to a 5D3 2 weeks ago and it's low light/low noise capabilities are still being 'discovered' by me. So far, ISO 2400 is virtually no-noise and ISO 10000 noise is still in the acceptable range (if not overly enlarged).

Yes, I actually do use my 85mm 1.8 a lot, but pretty much use the 17-55 2.8 for most of the event due to their desire for spontaneous large group shots (think 15-40 people). My current working technique is a flash bracket with the 430ex (don't have the 580

but was planning on upgrading unless I decide to go with the quantam). I have a bracket that extends my flash about 20-24 inches above me and that actually has helped a bit. I've also played with adjusting the flash to about 45 degrees with a bounce card to see how that would work too. I also am looking for an assistant to hold off camera flash for more dynamic lighting, so hopefully that will help too. And I know I should be able to go up to 1600 easily on my 60D but for some reason I find the noise pretty significant at that point. I unfortunately never invested in any noise reduction plug-ins and at present pretty much only use luminance adjustments in Lightroom to help. I have thought of getting a monopod as well, so may try that. ...and thanks for making me drool even more for the mark iii... I saw a photo posted on Facebook someone shot over 12,000 ISO and it looked better than my 800 ISO. Ugh, maybe next year.

tirediron · Dec 7, 2012

First and foremost, please use paragraphs. Large blocks of text are very difficult to read.

My suggestion would be to go for the Quantum flash or equivalent, mount that to a pole (broom-stick, monopod, etc), and hire a VAL* who will then place the light where you need it for optimum results. I will say however that this sounds like one case where your next purchase should be a body capable of dealing well with HIGH ISO (as in, up to 6400). These days, 800 is what 200 used to be when I first started with film 30 *cough* *cough* some years ago.

*Voice Activated Lightstand

Village Idiot · Dec 7, 2012

Shoot as high an ISO as possible to achieve to IQ you're looking for and shoot as slow a shutter speed as possible where you can have the ambient lit to your taste without getting motion blur and then fire flash.

If your camera is holding you back because of ISO performance, it may be time for an upgrade. This isn't something I'd automatically reccomend to everyone, but with a full frame camera like a 5D, you can shoot at about 6400 ISO with acceptable noise. After that, you can try a noise reduction program. I usually use one and blast it at near to full strength as it's own layer in Photo Shop and then pull back the opacity to suit my taste.