Steve5D
TPF Noob!
- Joined
- May 7, 2012
- Messages
- 3,307
- Reaction score
- 1,265
- Location
- St. Augustine, Florida
- Can others edit my Photos
- Photos NOT OK to edit
- Banned
- #16
Yeah, it's hard not to completely dig that lens...
Define 'tight budget' in dollars, but it will depend on the prime lens focal length you want. Nikon 85mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
You won't likely get superior bokeh from any consumer grade (tight budget) prime lens, because the best consumer grade lenses usually only have 7 aperture blades.
Thanks KMH, you've explained it really well. I've never really understood it before now. I'm on a tight budget, what would kind of prime would you recommend to get those cream cheese results? I shoot canon(APSc).Bokeh is not adjustable. It's an inherent quality of a lens design. There are 2 kinds of bokeh - cream cheese bokeh and hollywood bokeh. Cream cheese bokeh is very smooth and uniform. Hollywood bokeh is nice very round specular highlights.
The number and shape of the lens aperture blades and the blade edges has a lot to do with the quality of the bokeh a lens produces. Optical design also plays a part.
Canon's inexpensive, 5 blade (straight), 50 mm f/1.8 II lens is renouned for the low quality, nervous, garring, jittery bokeh it produces, while Nikon's 9 blade (curved), AF 85 mm f/1.4 is nicknamed "The Cream Machine" because of the silky smooth, cream cheese type bokeh it produces.
The Canon 50mm f/1.4 is a good choice. Pretty high optical quality, and it has 8 aperture blades which produces far more pleasing renditions of out of focus areas. The lens can be had for ~$350, and is very worth it when compared to the 50mm f/1.8. It was the first prime lens I bought, and I still use it regularly.
Thanks KMH, you've explained it really well. I've never really understood it before now. I'm on a tight budget, what would kind of prime would you recommend to get those cream cheese results? I shoot canon(APSc).
The Canon 50mm f/1.4 is a good choice. Pretty high optical quality, and it has 8 aperture blades which produces far more pleasing renditions of out of focus areas. The lens can be had for ~$350, and is very worth it when compared to the 50mm f/1.8. It was the first prime lens I bought, and I still use it regularly.
Would you say that 50 or 85mm is better for portraiture?
Sent from my LG-VM670 using Tapatalk 2
The Canon 50mm f/1.4 is a good choice. Pretty high optical quality, and it has 8 aperture blades which produces far more pleasing renditions of out of focus areas. The lens can be had for ~$350, and is very worth it when compared to the 50mm f/1.8. It was the first prime lens I bought, and I still use it regularly.
Would you say that 50 or 85mm is better for portraiture?
Sent from my LG-VM670 using Tapatalk 2
They're both usable for portraiture. The 50mm will be a more versatile focal length for everyday shooting, but the 85mm will have a shallower DoF due to the focal length. I usually shoot portraits with an 85mm on a full frame camera.
Why do you say you need an EF-s lens?
You won't have those kinds of problems at all using EF lenses on crop cameras. In fact, just the opposite because those problems happen on the outer edges, and the crop sensor will isolate thoes problems away by using the middle of the EF lenses only.Would you say that 50 or 85mm is better for portraiture?
Sent from my LG-VM670 using Tapatalk 2
They're both usable for portraiture. The 50mm will be a more versatile focal length for everyday shooting, but the 85mm will have a shallower DoF due to the focal length. I usually shoot portraits with an 85mm on a full frame camera.
Why do you say you need an EF-s lens?
I'm shooting with a 550D with the 1.6x crop factor. I could us an EF lens, but I had a bunch of problems in the past when I went from Minolta to Sony digital. My experience has been a thousand times better, but I'm chicken and don't want to risk barrel distortion or CA lol.
Sent from my LG-VM670 using Tapatalk 2
You won't have those kinds of problems at all using EF lenses on crop cameras. In fact, just the opposite because those problems happen on the outer edges, and the crop sensor will isolate thoes problems away by using the middle of the EF lenses only.They're both usable for portraiture. The 50mm will be a more versatile focal length for everyday shooting, but the 85mm will have a shallower DoF due to the focal length. I usually shoot portraits with an 85mm on a full frame camera.
Why do you say you need an EF-s lens?
I'm shooting with a 550D with the 1.6x crop factor. I could us an EF lens, but I had a bunch of problems in the past when I went from Minolta to Sony digital. My experience has been a thousand times better, but I'm chicken and don't want to risk barrel distortion or CA lol.
Sent from my LG-VM670 using Tapatalk 2
Eventually, you may want to step up to a full frame camera, and then those EF-s lenses will no longer work for you on the new camera, and you'll wish you'd gotten the full frame EF lenses instead.
As Dao said, it's really going to depend on the lens. Cheap lenses are cheap for a reason, and it's usually because they're slow - either optically or mechanically or both.Buck,
I've seen a lot of used EF lenses that are older from even before digital selling for cheap. Think if I went that route I'd have slow focusing issues?
Bokeh is not adjustable. It's an inherent quality of a lens design. There are 2 kinds of bokeh - cream cheese bokeh and hollywood bokeh. Cream cheese bokeh is very smooth and uniform. Hollywood bokeh is nice very round specular highlights.
The number and shape of the lens aperture blades and the blade edges has a lot to do with the quality of the bokeh a lens produces. Optical design also plays a part.
Canon's inexpensive, 5 blade (straight), 50 mm f/1.8 II lens is renouned for the low quality, nervous, garring, jittery bokeh it produces, while Nikon's 9 blade (curved), AF 85 mm f/1.4 is nicknamed "The Cream Machine" because of the silky smooth, cream cheese type bokeh it produces.
As Dao said, it's really going to depend on the lens. Cheap lenses are cheap for a reason, and it's usually because they're slow - either optically or mechanically or both.Buck,
I've seen a lot of used EF lenses that are older from even before digital selling for cheap. Think if I went that route I'd have slow focusing issues?
If it's way too cheap for what it is, it's probably damaged, though there is always the possibility that the person selling doesn't know the worth of it, or just needs immediate cash.
As Dao said, it's really going to depend on the lens. Cheap lenses are cheap for a reason, and it's usually because they're slow - either optically or mechanically or both.
if you're using Photoshop....you already have a program that can do it. its not a 'dedicated' bokeh program...assuming you use anything beyond Lightroom to do your edits you can create a fake sense of bokeh but really its just blurring the background. it wont look anywhere near the real thing
Exactly.They're both usable for portraiture. The 50mm will be a more versatile focal length for everyday shooting, but the 85mm will have a shallower DoF due to the focal length. I usually shoot portraits with an 85mm on a full frame camera.