Canon APS-C Portrait lens and Bokeh ?

[JacaRanda]

If I understand this whole crop sensor - full size sensor thing.
If I take the same lens (say 100mm) and put it on a crop sensor and also on a full frame and take the same picture. I can put the two photos in Photoshop on separate layers and the photo from the crop sensor will overlay right on the center of the full frame picture and line up perfectly. Just as if the crop sensor shot was a crop of the full frame photo.
Ignoring other technical details about the two cameras - is that correct?

You will have to move your feet.

 

[GlennT]

If I understand this whole crop sensor - full size sensor thing.
If I take the same lens (say 100mm) and put it on a crop sensor and also on a full frame and take the same picture. I can put the two photos in Photoshop on separate layers and the photo from the crop sensor will overlay right on the center of the full frame picture and line up perfectly. Just as if the crop sensor shot was a crop of the full frame photo.
Ignoring other technical details about the two cameras - is that correct?

You will have to move your feet.

He's got that right. If he "zoomed" with his feet, that would change the perspective. A photo shot on a crop body, at the same focal length and aperture as a shot taken with a full frame, will be a crop of the full frame image. Aside from cropping, they should be optically similar in every other way.

 

[Braineack]

Have fun with your word games. Your 200mm lens is now 320mm. Bless you.

no one here said: reach = focal length, but you.

Aside from cropping, they should be optically similar in every other way.

oh, so would you say one has more reach than the other?

 

[Braineack]

it all comes down to how you define "reasonable working distance". When I tried to do portraits in my basement I ran out of "reasonable working distance". a FF camera solved that. Just try in your "studio" to take 10 to 20 steps back to simulate a crop body. Use the FOV calculators out there to figure out the distance that you need.

why?

if youre used to 85mm on a FF, and now shoot a 50mm on a crop, you'll be standing in relatively the same place.

 

[JacaRanda]

If I understand this whole crop sensor - full size sensor thing.
If I take the same lens (say 100mm) and put it on a crop sensor and also on a full frame and take the same picture. I can put the two photos in Photoshop on separate layers and the photo from the crop sensor will overlay right on the center of the full frame picture and line up perfectly. Just as if the crop sensor shot was a crop of the full frame photo.
Ignoring other technical details about the two cameras - is that correct?

You will have to move your feet.

He's got that right. If he "zoomed" with his feet, that would change the perspective. A photo shot on a crop body, at the same focal length and aperture as a shot taken with a full frame, will be a crop of the full frame image. Aside from cropping, they should be optically similar in every other way.

Thanks for clarity (highlighting exactly what Denny typed).

 

[JacaRanda]

Hmmm. Now I am confusing myself.

 

[Designer]

Hmmm. Now I am confusing myself.

I gave up on trying any explanation. It's not worth the keystrokes.

 

[JacaRanda]

Hmmm. Now I am confusing myself.

I gave up on trying any explanation. It's not worth the keystrokes.

I'm saving this 'If you want pictures that SEEM like they are closer to the subject, get a croppy camera' The End

 

[beagle100]

People that click that link are going to see one camera that produces a closer image than the other and think to themselves: wow, a 300mm lens on the crop sensor has a lot more reach.

right, "reach" looks closer but I suppose it depends on the definition of "reach"

 

[PropilotBW]

So, buy a Micro 4/3 sensor. You'll have even more "reach"!!! .

 

[Designer]

Am I correct in assuming that a lens such as a 50mm f 1.4 ( APS-C factor of 1.6 = 80mm f 2.24 ) would give me results similar to what I get with my 5Dmk3 and say an 85mm f 1.8 as far as the OOF area in a portrait ?

In the time it took you to type this question and post the thread, you could have looked it up in the DOF Master about four times.

 

[astroNikon]

it all comes down to how you define "reasonable working distance". When I tried to do portraits in my basement I ran out of "reasonable working distance". a FF camera solved that. Just try in your "studio" to take 10 to 20 steps back to simulate a crop body. Use the FOV calculators out there to figure out the distance that you need.

why?

if youre used to 85mm on a FF, and now shoot a 50mm on a crop, you'll be standing in relatively the same place.

Yeah, I meant to type something else too but I cut some out to keep it short. You'll just have to read my mind for the encyclopedic version.

 

[TCampbell]

I recognize that when someone says "reach" what they probably really means is that they are using a reduce angle-of-view, such that when the narrower angle of view image is displayed at the same true physical dimensions (not angular size, but dimensional size) it will seem as if the image was taken with a lens having a longer focal length.

The reality is, you could crop in an the image with the full-frame sensor and get the same result.

The 7D II has a 4.1 µm pixel size vs. the 5D III 6.25 µm pixel size. This allows the 7D II to capture more information in the smaller area, but otherwise there's no reason you can't crop in with the 5D III.

With the Canon 5Ds and 5Ds r, there's a crop/aspect-ratio menu which allows you to put the full-frame camera into an APS-H or APS-C mode (note that I think it still really captures the image on the whole sensor, but then processes a JPEG out of it using just the area that would have been used for the respective format size. While this camera has a menu option for it, there's absolutely no reason a person couldn't go into their favorite photo editing program and do exactly the same thing.

 

[Didereaux]

I've been shooting a 5Dmk3 for over a year now. And while I love the body it isn't well suited as a sports and wildlife camera. So, I'm going to sell it because I find myself wanting the extra "Reach" and speed of an APS-C body for sports and wildlife. I'm looking at the 7Dmk2. I would like to be able to use the body for portraits as well . I'm a HUGE fan of Bokeh / separation in portraits. And, I understand the relationship of F stop / focal length and distance to subject in relation to bokeh on a FF body. I need advise on lens that will give that nice OOF background and reasonable working distance when using an Crop sensor body such as the 7Dmk2. Am I correct in assuming that a lens such as a 50mm f 1.4 ( APS-C factor of 1.6 = 80mm f 2.24 ) would give me results similar to what I get with my 5Dmk3 and say an 85mm f 1.8 as far as the OOF area in a portrait ? And if my thinking is on track would that also mean that the same 85mm 1.8 I mentioned would work as well and give similar results as a 135 f 2.0 ? ( 85mm f 1.8 x 1.6 crop factor = 136mm f 2.88 ) The math alone says I'd get what I'm looking for but, I have no experience with a crop body.

Thanks is advance

Michael

That's odd! Some of the worlds best sports, and best wildlife photographers use a 5D mkIII. Since you are posting in the Beginner's section you are probably safe in concluding that the problems you are encountering are of operator in origin and not equipment.

 

[JacaRanda]

So in conclusion OP that disappeared; suck it up and keep your 5D mkIII and purchase longer lenses if you want more reach like some of the worlds best (ignore the cost, you can do it) or creep closer to the lion or sneak onto the football field. Ignore the 1.6 croppy factor magnification whatever it is thingy, it's just a trick and is not worthy. Suck it up if you want the extra 4 frames per second, because that's your problem and timing is everything.
You could also use teleconverters. Still trade offs.