Can't keep sky from blowing out...

[512_SIR II]

thats what i was thinking. i always use the evaluative but if spot is better then i'll start to venture into that and see how it turn out

 

[bevoholic]

I actually just moved from RR into North Austin. I've seen a few pictures taken from down by the river looking back north into downtown. I've wanted to get down to that area to try some, but I have no idea where to go.

 

[512_SIR II]

idk if you've ever seen this picture but this is my inspiration, once i can take a photo that looks this amazing then i'll be happy. http://farm1.static.flickr.com/231/497258503_9dde7d27aa.jpg

 

[Ken Rockwell Fan]

Use the exposure compensation adjustment and chimp the highlights to taste.

 

[Buckster]

Compose the shot (zoom/focus) and then adjust the filter to suit.

i was thinking the same thing but then again that can get annoying real quick. i would suggest getting a different lens...

If you're going to use a CP, you're going to reach out and make the adjustment anyway when you compose the shot. I've been doing that for a quarter of a century on both kinds of lenses (the ones that turn on the front and those that don't). It's just never been much trouble at all. It's a part of the photographic process when composing the shot, like dialing aperture, shutter, ISO, focus.

To buy a new lens because you think you won't have to adjust the CP during composition seems financially nuts to me. I find lots of reasons to buy new lenses, but that doesn't even come close to being one of them.

YMMV

 

[GooniesNeverSayDie11]

You can take a photo that looks like that now by shooting at night instead of midday. I would advise a grad filter for daytime although that tree is going to be affected as well. Perhaps the dual exposure blend would work better.

 

[manaheim]

Also just be mindful of where the sun is and time your shot accordingly. If you can, plan your shot. If you can't, try to come back when the shot is right.

Sun to your back=brilliant blue skies, sun right in your face=washed out white. Variations in between. CPOL, dual shot, ND filters, etc. for situations when you have no choice.

 

[simo110]

Too bad the sky looks like that

 

[skyy38]

I took this shot yesterday while I was a local spot here in Austin (360 bridge). For some reason I couldn't keep the sky from blowing out. I took the shot around 4:30pm so the sun was still pretty harsh and was at about my 2 o clock position. I had the camera set to Av mode and the settings were as follows. Shutter speed 1/100, Aperture F11, ISO 100, and evaluative metering. Any suggestions? Thanks

First of all, you took the SHOT ie. ONE shot. Back yourself up and take as many shots as it takes to make sure you get what you want and take them with all sorts of different settings and modes etc.You've got a filmless camera so blast away!!!!

Second, you were also competing directly with the sun, see how it was at your 2 O'Clock position. I would suggest waiting another hour or so until it starts to act like a fill light instead of backlight aggravation. See if you can catch an approaching storm in this area the next time because the darkened sky certainly would help!

Third, with a harsh sun, you needed to be shooting at a shutter speed of at least 1/500 and that's an estimate. I routinely take it anywhere from 1/250 to 1/1250 and maybe beyond, depending. Try shutter priority the next time and let the aperture "hitch a ride" so to speak.

I'll post a pic later that will illustrate how to use the sun to your advantage.

 

[Fujito]

Like others have said, you can take 2 exposures and blend them in PS.

You can also use the gradient tool to create an artificial sky in place of a blown out one. It doesn't look great, but it's acceptable sometimes. The problem with this picture is that if you look at the hood of the car you can see the reflection of clouds. The highlighting around the trees is also evident, but this picture was for a car forum, so I let it go.

If you're going to blend two exposures then I'd recommend you take the picture at the evening so you get a more dramatic sky.

 

[DerekSalem]

Compose the shot (zoom/focus) and then adjust the filter to suit.

Good idea. I never thought about that

a simple way you can get by without a graduated filter is to take 2 shots - the first exposure is metered to get the sky (ie sky properly exposed and ground dark), then the second shot is metered to the foreground(bright blown sky, foreground properly exposed). Then use photoshop layer masks to blend the 2 images together..then you have a perfect sky and a well exposed foreground.

So try like an hdr sorta thing? I don't have photoshop or lightroom or any of that. So my editing is very minimal. Thats why i'd like to learn how to shoot it right on the spot and not have to worry about major editing.

no not like HDR. Hardly major editing but good luck with it anyway

Err...That's *exactly* what HDR is, Burgo. High Dynamic-Range means the end result has a higher range of light than the camera can grab in 1 exposure. What you're telling him to do is literally the *definition* of HDR photography.

And it's most likely the only way to get not blown-out skies and exposed subjects. Also, you could easily shoot at higher than 1/100s shutter speed. No reason to shoot that low in the middle of the day

 

[NikonNewbie]

just talked about this situation in a class on Monday...he said to focus on the sky for the light..then focus on the subject, also use exposure compensation.
I dont know if it works...I haven't tried it yet...it's been snowing/raining like a bee-yatch here.

 

[Ken Rockwell Fan]

just talked about this situation in a class on Monday...he said to focus on the sky for the light..then focus on the subject, also use exposure compensation.
I dont know if it works...I haven't tried it yet...it's been snowing/raining like a bee-yatch here.

You dont have to focus on the sky. Compose as you normally would and use the matrix meter setting. Take a shot and then review it with the LCD using the highlight setting. It will show you any lost highlights by blinking the overexposed areas in the frame. Then you can adjust the exposure compensation setting by pressing the +/- button and spinning the wheel to adjust the exposure for the next shot. Look in the view finder when you make this adjustment and you will see the meter setting. It looks like this...

+_ _ _ _ _l_ _ _ _ _ -

It's at the bottom of the finder's display. Repeat until the flashing over exposure shown in the rear LCD goes away.

 

[SensePhoto]

this was probably mentioned before but use the bracketing feature if you have one and blend exposures in PS or Photomatix. Just dont make it look to unrealistic like some HDR shots out there

 

[derikgutowski]

Go back at sunrise and again at sunset with both filters and play around. You may have to revisit a site a dozen times (or more) before the light is just right.